Searching for Tigers in Esoteric Tiger Landscape called Kipling Country

Kipling Country

Seooni Hills! Kipling referred to this mountain range in Satpuras as the abode of human-like creatures he penned so vividly in his book "The Jungle Book". These hills now comprise Pench National Park and the tiger reserve. Kipling's esoteric emotions can be well understood once you experience the panoramic grandeur of these mixed forests. Hardwood comprising tall trees like teak and its associates dominate the tiger landscape.  Mowgli is no more, but you see thousands in the villages around living in harmony with the wilderness around.  

                                                                         Tiger Safari Photo

It is here at Seooni Hills that Mowgli the wolf child was born and reared by the wolves. He was first discovered by Lt.Moor of the British Army in 1800 AD. The child was reared by his foster parents - a pair of wolves who led the pack. He virtually existed as a naked hunting human among the canids.  

Elephant Safari

Except for Sher Khan with a propensity to kill humans, especially Mowgli, the rest of the animals had become extremely possessive of the human child living among the wolf.  Despite all the myths and depictions in shikar tales, Sher Khan is no more a bloodthirsty human killer in this esoteric land. He is under the aegis of Project Tiger a program designed to save the big cats of India. He is the pride of India as the National Animal. 

Tiger Conservation Story

A country steeped deep in conservation ethos since the Vedic Times paradoxically managed to lose 90% of forest land and the tiger. Although the country lived with roots disabled by the invaders and foreign rulers still respects all life forms. Nevertheless, the Royal elites with priestly invocations were also responsible for the massacre of the tigers in India.

Barely 1400 tigers survived the onslaught of the hunters and poachers in the seventies whence the Project Tiger was launched. The merciless onslaught on wildlife was ongoing even after independence. Fortunately, India managed to stem the rot thanks to The Wildlife Protection Act of 1972.  Fast-spreading agriculture, an imperative to feed teeming millions ravaged most of the ecosystems in the country. This impacted the very existence of the tiger in India but thankfully Project Tiger was launched in the year 1973. The notification of protected areas happened with the inviolate core. The core was a blessing in disguise for the beleaguered species as they could breed in complete privacy devoid of human interference. Only 20% of the core is open to regulated tourism and the big cats are flourishing in the zones.

Pench National Park

Today you explore Pench Wilderness by booking a tiger safari on the jeep in this Indian paradise. If your imagination surpasses Kipling's then you will see living creatures everywhere. They are like humans perhaps more gentle and kind. Do not forget a pat on Mowgli's back in the nearby village and say "Hello" to the wolves as you come across the pack. Remember to book the safari permit in advance. Vehicle entry is limited in the tourism zones. You can book online at MPOnline Portal belong to Madhya Pradesh Government in India.       

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Uday has worked as a naturalist and loves to write about tigers and other wildlife forms. He also provides SEO Services and Content for Digital Marketing. He can be contacted at :

pateluday90@hotmail.com

Mob/Watsapp: 9755089323

Conserving Wildlife in the Pench Tiger Kingdom

Forsyth's Highlands of Central India

When Mowgli roamed the jungles of Seoni, they were teeming with tigers, leopards, sloth bears, bison, and the wolf. All these were part of life at the Seoni Hills, neighboring the township. At that time in India, there was wilderness everywhere, and this is best described in the book by James Forsyth "The Central Indian Highlands". Forsyth was a British explorer and a keen hunter. None could have written better than him on Central India, albeit there is a considerable slant against the natives.  

Tiger

The Sad Decline

Unfortunately, commercial forestry had started, and logs were falling everywhere pan India. The forests were slowly but surely receding; such was their extent in the country. The modern hunter with guns, trained elephants, and an entourage of Indian slaves was more vicious than his counterpart in the bygone era. 

The British rulers in India had declared predators as vermin, and a price was paid to the killers. In that period, around twenty-five thousand tigers were reported killed besides other predators. This was pure butchery! At that time, both the jungles and wild animals in India faced the fury of the rulers and their satraps, the princely bandwagon. This was followed by the cleansing of forests for agriculture post-independence, and wild animals came in the way. Rapid urbanization is the biggest threat ecosystems are facing in present-day India.   

Pench Jungle

Slow Recovery 

The jungles of Seoni, and neighboring Chhindawara, like everywhere, were being denuded, and subsequently, the depletion of wildlife was taking place. However, these forests were part of the Satpura Ranges, and the hilly terrain survived somewhat. Even in the seventies before the WPAct, a license to kill a tiger was around Rs.45, and you had the blessings of the local livestock owners and the dispensation. 

Small patches of forests came under the net of Project Tiger as a protected area, and the rot was stemmed. This happened quite late in 1972 whence the Wildlife Protection Act was passed, and the Project Tiger Program was initiated. WPA led to a complete ban on hunting wild animals. 

As a result, Pench Tiger Reserve and National Park came into existence in the year 1977. A much-reduced ecosystem, nevertheless, the creation of PA gave hope to the critically endangered tiger.  Today the park is a conservation unit, and more than fifty tigers survive in an approximate belt of 700 plus sq. km with dense cover. However, before creating the PA, the park was being run under sordid circumstances with rampant poaching and wood logging cases.  

The electrocution of wild animals was a major threat that was eventually brought under control. But this threat still exists, and so do other means of killing wild animals.  During my visit in the early nineties, I was witness to a carcass of electrocuted tigers and other animals; even one poacher was said to have died in the horrific incident. The sordid saga dealt with neglect, and the police apathy was evident.  

Though greater effort is being made by protecting wild animals and flora, conservation initiatives with the least intervention are quite common. As a result, the wilderness is flourishing, and the big cats are breeding well. At least in the critical tiger habitat or core. 

This conservation unit is home to the critically endangered Indian Wolf. Severely persecuted by humanity, it is still surviving, but there is no count or status record here. The dry deciduous tropical forests of this reserve are mixed forests with an abundance of fruiting trees, contributing to the strong recovery of animal populations in Central India. The overflow in the future would accelerate the need for a corridor between Pench and Kanha, which exists in a fragmented state at present.  The Jabalpur, Nagpur highway intersects the jungles, and road accidents are being prevented by building underpasses which sets a good example for the rest of the country obsessed with linear development.  Remedies like building elevated highways or underpasses and overpasses will reduce man-animal conflict by allowing safe passage to wild animals. 

Under the aegis of NTCA and the State Forest Department, considerable protection is accorded to the unit. Though the major part of the forest is under Madhya Pradesh Government, the rest is under the Maharashtra State.   

Tiger Tourism at Pench

Although created with conservation in focus, there is another dimension to the unit. And this is tourism which has proven to be a substantial revenue generator in the park. In addition, it contributes to National Exchequer by the inbound flow of foreign exchange through overseas visitors. 

Tourism is conducted in twenty percent area of critical tiger habitat and in the outer ring called a buffer. Though a preferred activity in the core, there is substantiative movement in the buffer as well.  The regulated tourism ecosystem is not only instrumental in earning revenue for the park. It is a major source of employment and small trade opportunity for people living in the periphery.  

The department employs a large number of people as guides, forest guards, and sundry laborers. The popular wildlife resorts in Pench are the key employment generators. They attract tourism from overseas as well as the domestic crowd. Luxury resorts and tour operators play a major role in marketing wild India abroad and locally. The tourism ecosystem generates business and employment. The status of locals and small-time businesses is robust thanks to the regulated tourism in the parks like Pench.  

These units are effective in nature interpretation and thus generate a sense of pride by increasing awareness about our wild heritage. Experience the wild tiger safari on an open jeep in Pench. It is organized every day except Wednesday evening. The tourists have to book a permit for each safari at MPOnline Portal. Another option is to book at the gate if available. The best season to experience conservation and search for wild animals is throughout the year except for the monsoon. 

Approach to Pench

From Kanha National Park by Road 

By Air Jabalpur and Nagpur

Nagpur Airport is much closer at 90 km approximately.  

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Uday freelances as a naturalist and loves to write about tiger conservation and the environment.

He also provides SEO and Content and teaches  Digital Marketing in his hometown Jabalpur. 

Contact: 

pateluday90@hotmail.com

9755089323

An Exciting Stay at Pench Resort in India

After a lackluster stay at Tadoba, my friends joined me at Pench National Park.  This was their first trip to Central India, and their first lag was a disappointment. Their aim was to sight the big cats, and surprisingly Tadoba was disappointed.  

Most tourists to tiger reserves arrive with only one goal in mind, and that is the sighting of a big cat. This has almost become a prestigious issue a thrilling memory to take back home. But working for a number of years as a naturalist I have come to realize that all safaris are not the same and all visits are not the same. The disappointment is greater whence the visitors are from foreign lands and may never return. Overseas visits are costly and generally, travelers keep them to one visit per country. The best way to enjoy the excursions is to take interest in everything the jungles have to offer the bird and the bees for sure. Birds, reptiles, insects or butterflies, and mammals should be your goal to make your wild holiday fulfilling. Not only tigers!

This was not on job trip, and a leisurely drive from Jabalpur took us to Pench. The Jabalpur Nagpur Highway is a lovely drive amidst forests, green fields, and quaint hamlets. From Seoni the landscape becomes not only panoramic, but it is also an esoteric experience driving through pristine forests as dense as they were during Mowgli’s time.  Seoni is a small town surrounded by forest-clad hills which Kipling penned as Seoooni Hills!

About two hundred kilometers down the highway there lies a small township called Khawasa, this is the end of Madhya Pradesh, and across the barrier lies the State of Maharashtra. Pench forests stretch through Maharashtra as well although the tiger reserve in that part is managed by Maharashtra Forest Department.

Pench tiger reserve lies in the forests now notified as Seoni and Chhindwara Districts of Madhya Pradesh. It is a region well known for its Sal and Teak forests. Both are top-quality hardwoods and much in demand. Sal forests abound in moist regions while Teak prefers drier regions. Tigers love to make these forests their preferred habitats. Other animals that can be seen in Pench are antelopes like Nilgai, four-horned antelope, and Indian gazelle. Deer abound and you can see the spotted and barking deer frolicking in the meadows.   Besides the deer which include the Sambar, wild boars, langur monkeys, and peacock pheasants are a common sight. A leopard or a sloth bear sighting could provide the utmost thrill. Like the wolf, both animals are sighted rarely. Another good sight is that of the massive bison or guar which weighs anywhere from 700 kilograms to over 1000 kilograms. The males are the heaviest and a sight to behold.  Reptiles are a rare sight being nocturnal but you can often see the monitor lizard hanging down the branches or slithering on the ground. Birds are everywhere and if you are a serious birder this is the place to be.      

Our safaris were slated in MP or Central India and we were not disappointed.  I was looking forward to the trip since we were to stay at Jungle Home a resort as good as they exist in the remote woods. We reached early enough for lunch by the time our friends arrived.    

From Khawasa visitors from Jabalpur have to turn left as we did and drive for ten km to reach Turia where our resort Jungle Home is situated. This drive is through jungles and full of wilderness, and it offers the best chance to see Indian wolves.  They are sighted often in this area which is outside the National Park.

We had a wonderful bird-watching session that evening and check listed a large number of species with help of a senior lodge naturalist. A quick dip in the pool and then a long evening spent on the balcony watching the electric moon surface in the company of twinkling stars. After a long exciting Gupshup full of jungle lore, we moved in for dinner in the large spacious dining.  

We spent one full day searching for big cats and we could not find them. Two safaris no tiger see. But at this reserve, birding is exciting and the lodge naturalist did not disappoint us. Eventually, on the second day, we worked out a plan. Noticing the rising heat, I suggested that we should score for big cats across the River Pench which intersects that park. And we did visit the zone on a wild tiger safari to see our first cat at Pench. I have been here earlier when tourism had not begun and it was an exciting discovery but I returned without sighting any tiger. That was not the aim of the visit since it was an exploratory trip but this time, I did not want to disappoint my friends.

We could hear the alarm cries from bushes very close to us, but we could see not any stripes. Across the bush, we could see the river beach and the jungle. The alarm cries continued for a long time and we waited patiently in our jeep. Nothing happened.

Eventually, the cries dried down and the reduced decibel was disappointing. What could be the reason I began to conjecture. I had not realized that the tiger in the bush had moved away towards the beach perhaps disturbed by us. But nevertheless, our eyes were well set on the beach. It was not futile for soon we could see the stripes moving towards the sandy beach heading straight for the jungle. That was a long walk and we wished it was longer well enough so my friends could get some nice pictures for stored memories to carry back home.   

There were many more trips to come and Jungle Home Pench became our second home. Raju Bhai the owner of the luxury jungle resort never disappointed us. The place is luxurious and well kept with all modern amenities and grand service. If you visit here in winter stay in the luxury tents under the starry night sky and watch the electric moon. Romantic, exciting, and full of new finds that are a holiday at Pench National Park.

You can reach from Nagpur Airport a distance being only ninety kilometers or drive two hundred km from Jabalpur Airport as per your travel plan.  From here you can drive to Kanha National Park another Kipling Country. It is just five hour drive.   

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Uday works as a freelance naturalist and loves to write on related issues. He also provides SEO and content writing services. He runs classes on digital marketing in summers in his home town Jabalpur.  

He can be contacted :

pateluday90@hotmailcom

9755089323  

Tiger Conservation: Tiger Corridors in Muddle

Though a lot has been done for the survival of the tiger, it is still not enough. The growing population of tigers in some protected areas is throwing new challenges to wildlife managers. The population of this big cat is nowhere from the brink of extinction.  

Tigers need more space if their populations have to increase. But most of the space is taken over by human settlements including those in the buffer regions, and in vital corridors adjoining protected areas. Most of the corridors in India are mired in conflicts especially those that are hindrances to massive road projects aka development.

As per law, no development activity is allowed within 10 km of the mandatory buffer.    

The Pench - Kanha corridor was mired in such conflict between the Green Tribunal and the Nagpur Bench of Mumbai High Court. The Court was in favor of the expansion of the highway that transacts through this crucial corridor meant for the migration of tigers and other animals.

Tigers migrate a long distance if the prevailing conditions do not favor them in their place of residence. This is applicable to other animals as well. The migration provides additional shelter to animals and enables gene transfer which is vital activity since it prevents inbreeding which could be fatal to come generations of the big cats.

Pench - Kanha corridor is one of the few unfragmented patches of forests which has made interbreeding possible between big cats of both the tiger reserves. Widening NH7 was proposed in spite of that it would result in substantial damage to the forests as result of axing of trees. As a mitigating

solution elevation of the highway had been proposed, but that still involved the axing of a large number of trees.

Well, to cut it short development has won what with MOEF easing clearances for developmental projects that transact through niche habitats. A number of corridors vital for the survival of tigers are facing some other kind of dilemma in India.  These connecting forests are home to a wide variety of flora and fauna including endangered species.

The muddle is formed between Green Tribunal, Courts, NHAI, WII, and MOEF. The tug of war continues over large swathes of forests that could be vital for saving the beleaguered animals that constitute the wildlife of India.

Though those in favor of saving wildlife have proposed mitigation measures albeit at a substantial increase in the cost of the projects. But this is the correct approach even if there is an increase in the cost since the eventual aim is to save endangered animals from extinction and thus protect our environment and inheritance.

Conservation of our vital forests is mired hopelessly in developmental projects. These include not only highways but industrial belts, mining, settlements, and other resource utilization.

Very few viable corridors remain in the country and most of these are not privileged enough to have a legal status akin to the protected areas.

Interesting News Articles

Expansion of Pench Kanha Corridor 

MOEF & Tiger Corridors

Amazing Wildlife of Pench - Dharmagiri

As an experienced naturalist he earlier worked in Nepal but since a long time he is looking after Jungle Home Pench at Turia near Pench Tiger Reserve. I met him some years back on my visit to the reserve and was...well his images will complete the sentence. 

Dharmagiri has an eye for photography that is all encompassing with stunning imagery of natural history and rare moments.  As a blogger, wildlife enthusiast and naturalist I present his work below.

Male Tiger at Pench

Collared Tigress

Dhole

Gaur

Langur

Flyingsquirrel

IndianWolf

Jackal

Hunt

JackalonKill

JungleCat

Flehmen

Commonkrait

Leopard

Tigressonrock

rhesusmacaque

Ruddymongoose

Tigeratwaterhole

MaleTiger

Wilddogs at play

   

Debacle at Pench - Poaching of Tigers

The poaching of Bagin Nala Tigress and her cubs reminds me of my first visit to the park at River Pench. 

In that bright sunny day I could feel that I was in a tiger heaven just as Kipling had penned in his famous Jungle Book. I could imagine Mowgli along with the wolf pack waving at me from behind the dense canopy that lined attentively all along the road to Karmajhiri.  

The forest ranger had given me a lift generously from Khawasa but was in no mood to elaborate what lay all along us. In his deep husky drawl he informed me, "animals here are larger." And then there was silence as we moved on to the final destination the forest rest house.    

Those enamored by negative fall out of tourism..there were no hotels then as tourism was in infancy.  Few people from Nagpur made day visits for excursions.  

Seoni Hills and surrounding forests of Chindwara were once abode of the tigers and teemed with wildlife. Most of the forests have been denuded in the last few decades, but the ecosystem is still intact in the Pench Tiger Reserve that engulfs Madhya Pradesh and Maharashtra border region on the Jabalpur Nagpur highway.  

The tiger was in the precarious state whence I arrived at Pench. Along with the tiger, other animals were being electrocuted using the 11 KVA line that passed through. The villagers had access through the park, possibly translocation had still not taken place?

The charred remains of the tiger unnerved me no end, the seat of the administration at that time was Karmajhiri barely two kilometers away. Other animals besides a poacher were charred to death using this hideous method.

The countenance of those responsible for protection of  wilderness was, at best could be described as shocking. There were more explanation for the events than action...

Tigress Pench

Tigress with cubs at Pench

and as we see in India all things gradually fizzle out. It did.

The shocking incidence at Pench is suggestive of prevailing presence of  the poaching fraternity, and nothing has been done regarding this. The wildlife is still in danger thanks to ineffective mechanisms and lack of will to foresee what threats are emerging. Is there a proactive strategy in place?   

The animals are surviving somehow, but a noose hangs around them all the time. After engaging abundant resource we could not prevent the murder of the most popular tigress. The fate of  many a big cats hangs in balance...entirely at the mercy of humans. 

Photo Credit: Dharmagiri

Tiger Images by Teerath Singh

Be it Kanha, Bandhavgarh, Pench or Tadoba, Teerath Singh, MP Tour Operator manages to get the best shot. The photographer certainly knows how to combine work with pleasure. The finest wildlife destination on Earth the tigers of Kanha National Park offer the best photo tour. The other tiger reserves offer an equal opportunity to capture images of the king in his wild realm.    

Searching for tiger in Pench

"When they do not want to be seen you don't see them." I explained to my friend who had just been to Tadoba. "Yeah that's what happened at Tadoba," my friend replied back. We were very hopeful that he and his family would see the tiger there since it was so much in picture. There had been frequent tiger sightings at Tadoba in Maharashtra, surpassing the Central Indian Tiger Reserves.     

Well I had warned them about the rains that could disrupt tiger safaris at the end of the season. That's what happened. It rained at both places and the safari was ruined. My friend was more hopeful at Pench with me along. He knows that I conduct tiger safaris and birding trips. But tigers are tigers unpredictable yet fathomable.

In National Parks these big cats are seen whence stressed for water and food. Heat and the need to chalk out their territory time and again brings them near the jungle roads. Yes a search for a mate also fetches them into the open. But on rainy day they prefer to relax under the canopy, and have water all around. There is no need for thermo-regulation which keeps indolent. The prey base is scattered all around. But tigress with cubs are more likely to move. If the cubs are grown up they stray away, but keep  in the vicinity of the mother. In such circumstances you should keep to the area of the family.       

Without tiger sightings, the long rides in the forest are not as disappointing as people think. It is the singular chase for tiger that dampens the whole excursion.

There is so much to experience, in these lovely forests, deers, monkeys, a sudden surprise - four Jackals on a kill. The birds are simply fantastic they are must watch even for those who are not bird watchers. The resplendent colors, the acrobatic flight and remarkable camouflage that surprises you no end. 

The massive bisons and the stately sambar peacefully foraging on long grasses is a wonderful sight to watch. Other life forms are an intrigue that thrills. A sloth bear ambling along and a leopard on prowl can be as exciting as a pack of wildlife chasing a deer and consuming it while still alive. Well that is how the nature works.         

The tiger some of us did see on the trip. We decided to move to the part of the river banks which was frequented by a tigress with grown up cubs. Another jeep spotted a tiger few minutes before we reached the banks of Pench River. They left as soon as the animal vanished leaving us to look for the big cat. We could hear lots of alarm cries but the bushes were very thick. 

We waited ahead in the direction of tiger walk but the animal had decided to change its course, I presumed. Hence I turned my binoculars towards the river and its bank. It was one roar that told me where the animal was. We headed back for some distance and then looked at the river bed through the clearing. All us were standing on the jeep seats to get a better view. (You are not allowed to get down from the jeep and you shouldn't.) 

"There it is! I whispered and pointed in the direction. Only one or two could see the tiger moving fast towards the other bank. The roar continued as it vanished into the tall grasses and that was that. I could still picture the scene but the roar was more exciting. My friends also appreciated this event. 'The roar was frightening," they said. Well it was!                

Wild Life at Pench

Bisons

Sambar Deer

Jungle Home Resort

Langurs

Rajubhai Itkelwar, builder and wild lifer owns Pench Jungle Home at Pench a beautiful wildlife resort. I know him well, but just discovered his photography skills. He has done some marvelous photography as presented here.

Searching for tiger in Pench

Pench is a unique destination that has been popularized by Capt.Sleeman and the legendary writer Kipling. Capt Seelman wrote in his book "Rambles and Recollection" about Mowgli the Wolf Child first discovered by Lt. Moor of British Army in Central India. He found the child in the village of Sant Vavadi.

Kipling's account of Seoni Hills in "Jungle Book" is fiction that is based on reality.  The imagination has mesmerized readers all over the World. Actually it was not the book that did it but the film by Walt Disney Production that proselytized millions across the World. The film created love and respect for other life forms by presenting them in a highly loveable manner including Sher Khan. Yes Sher Khan too, the object of our reckless pursuit on tiger safari. The film is in my  view one of the greatest conservation work in history of mankind. Hyperbole not to be misunderstood.

The denizens of the wild still survive but in less numbers, the forest wealth has been diminished by loggers and the down slide continues.  Within the confines of Pench National Park the tigers have learned to thrive well while their brothers outside the protected area are totally at the mercy of humans. 

Tigers are shy animals and very difficult to see in dense thickets. They are by nature nocturnal animals hence active hunting takes place in the night. The tigers love to move in the cold of the night and prefer to lie in the shade whence the sun is high up. They are seen whence forced to move in the day time on paths frequented by humans. Or on the jungle roads inside the park. Thirst and hunger are two major factors which forces the big cat to cross path with humans. Through years of experience their instinctive avoidance of humans has come into picture and when the stress factor is not there it is very very difficult to see these animals. 

For the big cats the alarm cries are the biggest give away and so is there spoor. Some have come to realize that the tourists on jeep is harmless and dare to venture in full daylight in their presence. This has given the benign tourist extreme moments of delight, but at the same time made them realize the importance of nature conservation and respect for all life forms. Not till one sees the tiger does he or she realize the importance of ecosystems and the wonder creation of Mother Earth.  

Tourism does play an important role in creating awareness about nature and our environment. It persuades tourist to value and conserve whatever is left of  natural Earth.  Tiger safaris are vital if we have to keep educating the uninitiated. The tourism infrastructure, the hotels in Pench National Park in MP are foundation of conservation and responsible tourism. The sustenance of locals means greater help in conserving our inheritance.

The conservationists, tourists, wildlife photographers and nature lovers are the sentinel of wilderness. They are the voice that speaks for the tigers and other persecuted life forms.  It is the people who care to visit natural heavens that realize our inhertiance not those who never bother.  For you do not hear a golfer say" Help Save the Tiger".        

Tiger Safari on a budget

No Cheap Options from 20 Dec to 7th January, Diwali Festival and Holi festival ...avoid Saturdays and Sundays other holidays.   

The recent price hike in tiger tourism in Indian tiger reserves in  MP has a negative impact on economy that sustains many homes. A world reeling under an economic stress finds it difficult to spend so much on wildlife safaris. Nevertheless lot many people on Earth wish to see this wonder creature though they can only travel on a budget. This does not apply only to middle class Indians but to foreigners as well.   

The price hike may be a management issue aimed at regulating tourism in the Central Indian Parks. Hence those wishing to travel for tiger safaris and birding need to economize everywhere they can. The tour begins at Delhi for most.

Depending upon your flight you can avoid a stay at the Capital. There are direct flights for Jabalpur if time allows get on board straight. Booking flights in advance cuts the cost, last minute flights are costly. Another option is overnight train which are about 4 or 5. You should have booked your rail ticket in advance the cheaper options are 3 tier sleeper or 3 AC bit higher priced.  These are overnight options but will certainly save a stay in the hotel in New Delhi.    

Whence you reach Jabalpur you have an option to get bus for Kanha National Park via Mandla but this is in the early morning times. Taxi ride is costly hence if you have to stay overnight than there are many economy hotels in Jabalpur at Russel Chowk. Be cautious that you do not land in unsafe hotel. Some of the better hotels are Arihant Palace, Vardhman Hotel, Hotel Shikhar Palace which charge reasonably and you can bargain. 

There is a direct bus for Kanha from the bus station known as motor stand very close to Russel Chowk. You can walk down there about 10 minutes. You should reach around 5.45 am.I think there are two buses going to Kanha hence get the first worm. The ride is about 156 km to Mocha Village if you are putting up there or bit further to Khatia Gate.You have to travel to Khatia Gate..Kanha Kisli Side and not to the Mukki Gate (towards Raipur) which does not have budget options. Keep this in mind. Always ask for Khatia Gate at Kanha near Mochha Village.     

Stay: Bargain at hotels in Kanha ....motel chandan at Khatia Gate, and other lodges on main road to Khatia Gate they are safer.  Food is also cheap in these places else there are many road side dhabas for food. Avoid Non Veg which is costlier than vegetarian food. Always go for deep fried hot food in road side joints else eat boiled eggs bread and butter if you are extra sensitive to Indian Pathogens. See things cook right in your presence the hotter the better. The oil and spices your stomach will adjust to. Once you get hooked to Indian curry & roti there is none other food. Anyway carry antibiotics for your stomach as many do. Carry mineral water...branded one use that throughout your journey.

Remember India is a vast country so you cannot expect any homogeneity in services and offerings. There are World class restaurants and accommodations in the country but on budget tour forget it. Most of the budget restaurants are clean and neat. Avoid roadside joints if you come across some good eateries.      

There is a dormitory at Kisli in Kanha National Park operated by MP Tourism you should book in advance along with food it is a real cheap option. You could share the jeep safari if other inbound tourists are staying there. Since the dormitory is in the core area your movements will be restricted by Gate timings. Khatia Gate has a small rustic bazaar but not quaint at all...he!he!. This is where people begin there safari on Kanha side, the jeeps are available here. But if you connect in advance with your accommodation you might get a share ride and save money.     

Try to share jeep safaris with other foreigners this brings the cost down a lot. There is seperate pricing for Indian and inbound travelers which include NRI foriegn passport holders.  Visit any zone that is available since Kanha Zone is a premium zone and costs more. You can see as good wildlife any where. the same bus will fetch you back it leaves around one am from Khatia or Mocha Village. Gate Entry has to be booked in advance since the vehicle entries are limited.  

Do not buy beverages at your resort in the tiger reserves they are very costly. The local bazzar is the best bet, but liquor will cost more anyway...wine is not available....do all these purchasing at Jabalpur or other major town.    

From Jabalpur you can buy a luxury bus ticket to Khwasa township ahead of Seoni town, the entry point to Pench National Park. Within a distance of ten km there are many resorts you can stay at Mowglis Den Resort which has a dormitory that could cost less. Except in the rush season you can bargain with the resorts for accommodations.

Pench is closer from Nagpur connected by luxury bus. In non holiday period the bus will not cost you the nose. There is a Jabalpur Nagpur railway connection as well.  

For Bandhavgarh there is a direct train Utkal Express from New Delhi leaving 3 pm apporx, it reaches Umaria Station early in the morning from here you have to walk down to the bus stand and catch a bus for Tala which is about 32 km. Most of the accommodations are in and near Tala and some are budget class. 

From Jabalpur you can travel by rail/bus to Katni and catch a bus for Umaria and so on. The best option is the Utkal Express which departs for The Capital around 9 pm approx. Please confirm all rail timings.

There is a long option for Khajuraho from here about 6/7 hours drive, from the temple town Panna National Park is about 45 km and so is Ken Gharial Sanctuary.  

The three tiger reserves are recommended for tiger safari on budget. If you can gather some more people from your country the sharing will certianly bring the individual cost down.

The views above are my own, please use your own discretion during the safari tours. 

Wilds of Seoni Hills

Part of Central Indian Highlands so vividly and elegantly described by Capt.James Forsyth during the Raj...these hills are part of the Satpura Range. The Central Indian Forests where once contiguous and  were teeming with wild life and floral biodiversity. If you have not read the book do read it.

The Seoni Hills are where the story of Mowgli the Wolf Child is based. This is also known as Kipling Country since he wrote a fine account of these forests and Wainganga River in his book "Jungle Book". Rudyard Kipling has knit the wild denizens into a complex web of imagination that allures many to visit these highlands from all over the World. All the characters of this classic book live in the jungle even now, though the wolf has become rare.

With increasing urbanization lot of habitat types that support rare animals are being lost. Outside the reserve plains, grasslands and scrub have been completely overtaken by civilization. Increasing population, agriculture and industrialization further threaten these pristine jungles of India.     

The Seoni Township is a small city now with bustling commercial activity. Fifty km from it towards Nagpur lies the Pench National Park which encompasses Seoni Hills. The forests where once connected with Kanha Tiger Reserve, but I do not think they are anymore. The town itself is bare, but the jungle is met with at some distance. Most of the drive to Pench is pleasant as scenic splendor of dense canopy, undulating terrain  and green hills unfolds.   

Due to the ravages of time the forest have been greatly denuded but timely intervention saved the remaining. Most of the rock formations are pristine with black cotton soil and clay here and there.  Adjoining to Pench is Rukhad Wildlife Sanctuary now part of the tiger reserve. The WLS offers good sightings of animals including tigers and leopards. You can still come across Bison and deer crossing like it was everywhere in olden days. The area is well inundated by rivers and nullahs which are the life line of the ecosystems here. Water Holes or pools are referred as Dohs, perennial springs also support life in this region.    

Wildlife seen is tiger, leopard, bison, sambar, spotted deer, wild dog, sloth bear, barking deer, langur and Nilgai, The Indian wolf at Pench frequents outer areas around villages but are not often seen.     

Extensive jungle is connected with Seoni, Balagahat and Dist. of Nagpur.  The forests stretch from the State of Madhya Pradesh and ingress into Maharashtra. Most of the tourism takes place from Turiya Gate in MP. The MP border at Khawasa is the access point to Turyia Gate. In order to enjoy wildlife safaris one can stay in numerous Pench resorts that offer accommodation. The jeep safaris in the preserve need to be booked in advance during the rush season. The safari offer chance of sighting the spectacular animals of the Hills. 

The Central Indian Highlands also encompass Pachmarhi Hill Retreat and parts of Kanha.The distance from Jabalpur to Pench is about 200 plus km. From Nagpur it is 80 km. Both are connected by air with Mumbai & New Delhi. From Kanha the reserve is about 200 km.    

Wolf in Seoni Hills - Pench Tiger Reserve

Extremely rare due to persecution everywhere the wolf in India is still considered as vermin. The animal is a livestock killer by circumstances. The wolf in India is an open country scrub animal. It is less found in dense habitats. Most of the protected areas as tiger reserves cover only the forests, the open scrub country in the periphery is neglected. This brings the animal in direct competition/conflict with live stock, dogs and their keepers. There are many myths around the animal which create an impression of being dangerous and a bad omen.     

Indian Wolf (Canis lupus pallipes) is an extremely endangered carnivore. There are about two to three thousand wolves in the country. The animal survives in Madhya Pradesh, Gujarat, Maharastra, Rajasthan, Uttar Pradesh, Haryana and Karnataka. It is known by local name in each state. There have been cases of attack on young children the reason being loss of prey base. Most of the attack has taken place in UP and Bihar where habitat damage has been extensive. 

In MP the carnivore is rare and survives in few areas.  It is found in Pench Tiger Reserve in the periphery. Its known habitat in Kanha was Moccha where a number of resorts flourish now. I have not seen the animal there since a long time. The animal is subject to prosecution everywhere, and hence the animal migrates locally in case of disturbance.     

I have seen the animal in Pench two years back. This was the time my friends hotel in Pench was being built. The luxury accommodation was some distance away from Khawasa and we could see the pack of four on the way. They are not seen anymore but I hope they have shifted habitat and not killed.

Well known Pench in Seoni Hills is an excellent tiger habitat. It is home large diversity of flora and fauna. It is a remarkable birding destination as well. Known as Kipling Country after Rudyard Kipling who penned the World famous "Jungle Book" which portrayed the exploits of the wolf child Mowgli. Mowgli is no more and so would be the wolf pack if conservation measure are not taken immediately. 

Pench National Park

Seoni the famous little township in Madhya Pradesh near Jabalpur is surrounded by dense forests that are referred as Seoni Hills. Rudyard Kipling in "Jungle Book"  describes the escapade of child reared by wolf pack. It is said that Lt.Moor a British first sighted Mowgli near the village of Sant Vavadi. Capt. Sleeman wrote an account of Mowgli in his book "Rambles and Recollections". 

Kipling is said to have visited Seoni Hills which were then contiguous with what is now Kanha National Park. The British writer made Mowgli the wolf child immortal by writing "Jungle Book". The Seoni Hills are part of Central Indian Highlands that Capt Forsyth accounted for in his book "The Highlands of Central India". 

The British loved to explore and what better scape than that of "Jewel in the Crown". The exploratory zeal contributed a lot to understanding the natural history of India. The taxonomic classification of  Indian wild animals and birds was efficiently carried out by wild life lovers and English ornithologist during the British Raj.

Pench National Park a tiger reserve is part of Seoni Hills and tigers survive here. A wolf pack was seen on road to Turia Gate from Khawasa few years back. But the expanding humanity is driving peripheral wildlife out of their preferred habitats all over in the tiger reserve.


Pench biodiversity is impressive. A dry deciduous mixed forest, the preserve supports wide variety of Central Indian mammals. The terrain is undulating with low lying hills, grassy valleys and dense forest canopies. It is home to tigers, leopards, wolf, wild dog, bison, sambar deer and four horned deer. Barking deers are sen often while squirrel, jungle cat, nilgai, spotted deer, langur, rhesus macaque, wild boar and jackals are commonly seen. Fox, ratel, civet cats,  hyena, and porcupine are by nature nocturnal. Sloth bear and leopard are seen with luck. Recent leopard sightings have been surprisingly frequent.  

Pench has more than seven hundred bison or gaur. The coarse feeders are a prominent feature of the park with large herds sighted often. The wolf once common is a rare sight suggesting an endangered status. Like is all tiger reserve of Central India hyena is not sighted often. This is due to occupation of open country and scrub forest habitats by villages and resorts in the immediate periphery.

The bird life is rich but requires more work to be done by ornithologists. Raptors are very visible and so are many other birds. Along with Kanha, Bandhavgarh, Nauradehi WLS, Pench is ideal for forest birding.  The latter two offer wetland bird sightings as well. Though very popular for tiger safari birding in the tiger reserves is on increase. Pench offers exciting potential for bird watching tours in Madhya pradesh in India.

Tree line is mix with scattered patches of bamboo perhaps planted . Neither Teak nor Sal dominates here the latter appears to be very scarce.  Lyndia, Saja, Kullu, Harra, Bahera, Dhak, Tendu, Kosum, Salai, Haldu, Bija are common floral elements along with dazzling mix of herbs and shrubs. Grassland and edaphic meadows are feeding grounds of herbivores.       

Pench River is the life line of this ecosystem but dries out to a large extant in summers. The Totlah Doh Hydroelectric Dam has a submergence are of more than fifty square km of what was once the finest forest zone in the reserve. Water holes are scattered but support wildlife in the park. 

Tiger conservation has been successful in the reserve but the danger of poaching are evident as few year back tiger and other animals were electrocuted right next to the Karmajhiri RH. In case of lack of vigilance the National Park could face poaching incidences that could endanger the tiger and other animals.

Pench is accessible from Nagpur airport a good eighty km of drive while it is approx 200 km from Jabalpur which is connected by air service from New Delhi. It is six to seven hours drive to Kanha National Park from here.

Accommodation is in plenty with many jungle resorts available along with luxury hotels and many jungle camps.  Accommodation ranges from budget to super luxurious. During holiday rush one needs to book rooms or jungle plans in advance. The entry to the park is limited an safari should be booked much in advance.

All seasons are good for wildlife watching but winters are best for birding as migrants add up the numbers of species. Combining your tiger safari tour with a visit to Kanha National Park would add to your experience of wildlife safaris in Central India.        

Where can I see the tiger?

Lot of tourists come to India hoping to see the tiger - rare and endangered - charismatic and powerful. Many ask me where can I see the tiger best?

There are many qualities about the Bengal tiger which makes it extremely popular all over the World. Myths and legends galore and the superhuman prowess of the tiger's strength the list is endless and would go on and on. Certainly I have encountered very few tourists who wished to see a tiger because it was endangered - Believe me!

Another reason is the thrill that the animal exudes among humans at its sight. Unfortunately many myths and mysticism associated with the animals has been the reason for its persecution. The tiger's power and strength has made many people believe that any part you consume of the tiger will deliver potent effect....nothing can be far from truth. Hence Chinese system of medicine is committed to the same fallacy and the tiger suffers. For most of the tiger poaching is due to the demand for its bones and other body parts in Chinese medicines. (SIC!)

Well, coming back to the question the best places to see the tiger in India are definitely as follows:

Kanha National Park - Central India

Bandhavgarh National Park - Central India

Pench National Park - Central India

Ranthambhore National Park - Rajasthan

Corbett National Park - Uttaranchal

Panna National Park

Choose these places in order for a tiger safari tour to see the tiger. Kanha and Bandhavgarh are my favorite places. All the above are tiger reserves and receive good degree of protection under Project tiger hence the tiger population is growing here.

When planning for a tiger safari in India one must first find out all about where to see the tiger best in accordance with one's itinerary. Contact a good travel agent online and get maximum tour details possible.

It is best to plan our trip in advance and assure all the travel details before leaving for the trip. There are many luxury hotels in Kanha and other National Parks. Choose the one that fits your budget and delivers what you desire. Many luxury hotels at Bandhavgarh, Pench and Kanha arrange tiger safaris for your trip. Some even provide trained naturalist guide service withing the package.

A minimum three nights package tour is advised since in that period you have an optimum chance of tiger sighting in the parks. Though tiger tourism in India is expensive some what but it is worth going for a tiger safari on your visit to India. Safaris are the best ways to celebrate holidays and long vacations.

The best season is always except during the holiday period and festival times when the traffic in the parks could be unnerving and hinder wildlife sightings. These places are by all means good for birding trips especially in winters when the migrants arrive.

Kanha or Bandhavgarh tour

Many tiger enthusiasts and wildlife photographers ask me about the best place to see tigers in India?

My straight forward answer is Kanha, Bandhavgarh and Pench tiger reserves in Central Indian state of Madhya Pradesh. Among others....if these destination are not reachable then Ranthambhore and Corbett National Park are also good tiger havens and wildlife resorts the latter being excellent for elephant safari in India. All three Central Indian parks are accessible from Jabalpur town in MP with air service from Delhi, while Pench and Kanha are also accessible from Nagpur town with flights from many major towns. Trains also ply between these towns from Delhi, Mumbai and Calcutta.

Kanha or Bandhavgarh?

It is a difficult question to answer as both excel in tiger sightings. What I can say is that Kanha is larger with more mammalian species to see eg. Bison & Hard ground swamp deer. For those interested only in tiger photography then I would suggest either of the two or both. For those with wider photographic angle they should visit Kanha. But the best season for nature and wild tiger photography is February and after if you can stand the rising heat.

For first time visitors on tiger tour should visit Kanha and then Bandhavgarh since tiger is going to call them back I am sure.

Bandhavgarh National Park is extremely beautiful wildlife paradise with enchanting ancient remains of fort, temples, man made caves and stables etc. The landscape is esoteric and quaint and tigers abound. Bird life is also very interesting here and approximately two hundred and fifty birds have been recorded here which includes winter migrants.
Pench is again exciting place with rising tiger sightings every year and different floral elements since it is a dry deciduous mix tropical forest. Leopard sightings have been good at Pench and so is the Indian wolf seen sometimes with luck. It is the setting for Kipling's "Jungle Book"- Mowgli the wolf child was discovered here. The birding too is very exciting at Pench tiger reserve and one can see lots of raptors and Malabar pied horn bill with ease. Reptiles and lesser fauna are mostly nocturnal and rare.

All the tiger reserves provide good hotel accommodation facilities from budget to luxury resorts. The only thing is that one should book tiger tours in advance as number of vehicle entries are restricted in these parks hence advance booking of accommodation and park safari is advised. Most of the resorts and jungle camps are well equipped for tiger tourism and arrange tiger safaris for eco tourists while some also provide trained naturalists to help trek tigers and deliver a holistic experience of these magnificent paradises of Earth.

Time to avoid tiger tours if you can is Diwali holidays and Christmas time up to Jan first week. Albeit this year vehicle entry restrictions will somehow manage the rush.