Pristine Bandhavgarh a Magical Tiger Safari

After a long drive from Jabalpur Airport, through one of the finest road experiences we near our destination. The final moments are absolutely stunning, as looming cliffs, and tabletop mountains come into the vision and the pure air begins to enhance the sense of well-being.   

Bandhavgarh is one of the finest wild holiday destinations on Earth. Tucked away in the remote corner of Madhya Pradesh (MP), this Central Indian paradise is the land of the tiger. The drive is through quaint hamlets, rustic villages, and dense forests but the experience of reaching the destination is truly enchanting. The sudden surprising emergence of steep cliffs is the most intriguing feature, the first glance captivates, and the holiday has just begun. 

In a modern urbanized clutter that the Earth is slowly turning into, experiencing Bandhavgarh is like entering into a dreamy fairy tale World. The central place Tala may be a little disappointing but the surroundings are absolutely stunning and holidaymakers prefer to stay on the outskirts.     

The tiger reserve and National Park is a mix of exotic and esoteric with dense forests, swampy meadows, and streams running wild.  But the most eye-catching features are the steep cliffs, part sun-scorched and bare, partly enveloped in green, and down below are the glens that enchant. In between the rising cliffs, the sun descends to play hide and seek emitting sobering orange glows. The vivid landscape impacted by sunlight and the halo appears as a bizarre spectrum of striking colors painting the terrain in a romantic mix of shadows and light overpowered by amber glows. 

The terrain is rugged and surprises you on a tiger safari as you gain height and then descend down steeply into the meadows. The roller coaster game ride is an absolute thrill, a bit frightening due to the uneven surface, and the initial fear of a sudden encounter with the majestic beast.

Thrill on a Bandhavgarh Safari captivates visitors with amazing eruptions of the torturous terrain, sudden encounter with the big cats, and the sight of ancient artifacts scattered in wild abundance.  The latter makes Bandhavgarh unique, a creation of tribal, way back two thousand years ago, perhaps more. These civilized structures are a tribute to Lord Vishnu who resides in zoomorphic forms as a symbol of universal life. 

The Lord, the preserver is best revered at Shesh Shaiyya, the amazing fairy tale enclave of a shaded pool created by the mountain River Charanganga that trickles into the assemble mysteriously through the dense vegetation. Visit Sesh Shaiyya or the reclining Vishnu if you believe in fairylands.  This is the spot where tired soldiers back from the ravages of internecine wars once rested under the cool shade of the grove.  Now the big cats come here to rest.  Further up the hill lies the fort and the Ram Temple, out of bounds for visitors but nevertheless a place frozen in time - unique and esoteric.   

Safaris at the reserve begin early almost at predawn and last for three hours. It is the thrill of sighting the tiger in the wild that attracts people from far and wide. It is one of the most intriguing sights, a moment to remember for life such is the magical charisma of the Bengal Tiger in India. The search is an experience, and if you go for a large number of safaris then the guides will turn you into an expert tiger tracker. 

This wildlife experience is engaging, invigorating, and thrilling. Bandhavgarh is an ecosystem that contains several niches and each as exciting as the other. The amazing wilderness is a floral paradise and home to equally amazing life forms major and minor. It is an explorer’s paradise and a researcher's dream lab. Filmmakers and lensmen come here to capture exciting images of big cats and mammals in the pristine, unspoiled surroundings.   

Excitement awaits at every turn in the mysterious green alleys of paradise. One has to keep calm and silent as the guide searches for your favorite animal. The logical end is the sighting of big cats, sloth bears, and huge bison. The birds' delight, and you should have keen eyesight and sharp focus to sight them before they vanish into the foliage.   

Earlier you could sight the predators from a close quarter on the elephant's back, but that is not allowed anymore. Nevertheless, open jeep safaris are as exciting and help explore every nook and corner of the paradise. 

You should book a jeep safari in advance at Bandhavgarh. The booking is done on MPOnline Portal and directly at the gates if available.  Open jeep safaris are limited and available only to permit holders. Six tourists are allowed on one jeep and you can share to cut the cost. Hire a naturalist if, you are keen on the interpretation of the wilderness around you. Carry good quality binoculars, warm clothing in winter, and food and water. Bird hand guides and books on wildlife are handy.   

You need to stay for a few days in order to sight and photograph tigers. A longer stay is like a revelation on the mystery of natural Earth, undisturbed and unpolluted.  Understand life as you explore. 

You should stay at the best resort in Bandhavgarh hence book early. The holiday is a mix of wilderness experience and recreation. Good food, a comfortable stay, and a romantic experience for some, all is possible here. The wildlife resorts organize safaris, bird-watching trips, village tours, and more. Unlike urban hotels, the resorts are inclined towards nature and local surroundings and ambiance which is the experience of countryside living. Though they do not lack luxuries and style the ambiance is bound by local traditions, and peace and serenity prevail.

Experience life in remote India, amidst land that is nearly at a standstill undeterred by urban pursuits. The locals are peaceful and loving and understanding their life is a revelation. Life resonates with the robust nature in the surroundings and it is the best place to spend a few days on an exciting vacation. 

You can reach Bandhavgarh from Jabalpur Airport in Central India which is a four-hour drive. Another option is to drive from Kanha National Park which is five-hour drive. You can also connect the ride to the reserve from Khajuraho Temples also in Madhya Pradesh.   

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Uday freelances as a naturalist and loves to write about tiger conservation and the environment.

He also provides SEO and Content and teaches  Digital Marketing in his hometown Jabalpur. 

Contact: 

pateluday90@hotmail.com

9755089323

An Exciting Stay at Pench Resort in India

After a lackluster stay at Tadoba, my friends joined me at Pench National Park.  This was their first trip to Central India, and their first lag was a disappointment. Their aim was to sight the big cats, and surprisingly Tadoba was disappointed.  

Most tourists to tiger reserves arrive with only one goal in mind, and that is the sighting of a big cat. This has almost become a prestigious issue a thrilling memory to take back home. But working for a number of years as a naturalist I have come to realize that all safaris are not the same and all visits are not the same. The disappointment is greater whence the visitors are from foreign lands and may never return. Overseas visits are costly and generally, travelers keep them to one visit per country. The best way to enjoy the excursions is to take interest in everything the jungles have to offer the bird and the bees for sure. Birds, reptiles, insects or butterflies, and mammals should be your goal to make your wild holiday fulfilling. Not only tigers!

This was not on job trip, and a leisurely drive from Jabalpur took us to Pench. The Jabalpur Nagpur Highway is a lovely drive amidst forests, green fields, and quaint hamlets. From Seoni the landscape becomes not only panoramic, but it is also an esoteric experience driving through pristine forests as dense as they were during Mowgli’s time.  Seoni is a small town surrounded by forest-clad hills which Kipling penned as Seoooni Hills!

About two hundred kilometers down the highway there lies a small township called Khawasa, this is the end of Madhya Pradesh, and across the barrier lies the State of Maharashtra. Pench forests stretch through Maharashtra as well although the tiger reserve in that part is managed by Maharashtra Forest Department.

Pench tiger reserve lies in the forests now notified as Seoni and Chhindwara Districts of Madhya Pradesh. It is a region well known for its Sal and Teak forests. Both are top-quality hardwoods and much in demand. Sal forests abound in moist regions while Teak prefers drier regions. Tigers love to make these forests their preferred habitats. Other animals that can be seen in Pench are antelopes like Nilgai, four-horned antelope, and Indian gazelle. Deer abound and you can see the spotted and barking deer frolicking in the meadows.   Besides the deer which include the Sambar, wild boars, langur monkeys, and peacock pheasants are a common sight. A leopard or a sloth bear sighting could provide the utmost thrill. Like the wolf, both animals are sighted rarely. Another good sight is that of the massive bison or guar which weighs anywhere from 700 kilograms to over 1000 kilograms. The males are the heaviest and a sight to behold.  Reptiles are a rare sight being nocturnal but you can often see the monitor lizard hanging down the branches or slithering on the ground. Birds are everywhere and if you are a serious birder this is the place to be.      

Our safaris were slated in MP or Central India and we were not disappointed.  I was looking forward to the trip since we were to stay at Jungle Home a resort as good as they exist in the remote woods. We reached early enough for lunch by the time our friends arrived.    

From Khawasa visitors from Jabalpur have to turn left as we did and drive for ten km to reach Turia where our resort Jungle Home is situated. This drive is through jungles and full of wilderness, and it offers the best chance to see Indian wolves.  They are sighted often in this area which is outside the National Park.

We had a wonderful bird-watching session that evening and check listed a large number of species with help of a senior lodge naturalist. A quick dip in the pool and then a long evening spent on the balcony watching the electric moon surface in the company of twinkling stars. After a long exciting Gupshup full of jungle lore, we moved in for dinner in the large spacious dining.  

We spent one full day searching for big cats and we could not find them. Two safaris no tiger see. But at this reserve, birding is exciting and the lodge naturalist did not disappoint us. Eventually, on the second day, we worked out a plan. Noticing the rising heat, I suggested that we should score for big cats across the River Pench which intersects that park. And we did visit the zone on a wild tiger safari to see our first cat at Pench. I have been here earlier when tourism had not begun and it was an exciting discovery but I returned without sighting any tiger. That was not the aim of the visit since it was an exploratory trip but this time, I did not want to disappoint my friends.

We could hear the alarm cries from bushes very close to us, but we could see not any stripes. Across the bush, we could see the river beach and the jungle. The alarm cries continued for a long time and we waited patiently in our jeep. Nothing happened.

Eventually, the cries dried down and the reduced decibel was disappointing. What could be the reason I began to conjecture. I had not realized that the tiger in the bush had moved away towards the beach perhaps disturbed by us. But nevertheless, our eyes were well set on the beach. It was not futile for soon we could see the stripes moving towards the sandy beach heading straight for the jungle. That was a long walk and we wished it was longer well enough so my friends could get some nice pictures for stored memories to carry back home.   

There were many more trips to come and Jungle Home Pench became our second home. Raju Bhai the owner of the luxury jungle resort never disappointed us. The place is luxurious and well kept with all modern amenities and grand service. If you visit here in winter stay in the luxury tents under the starry night sky and watch the electric moon. Romantic, exciting, and full of new finds that are a holiday at Pench National Park.

You can reach from Nagpur Airport a distance being only ninety kilometers or drive two hundred km from Jabalpur Airport as per your travel plan.  From here you can drive to Kanha National Park another Kipling Country. It is just five hour drive.   

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Uday works as a freelance naturalist and loves to write on related issues. He also provides SEO and content writing services. He runs classes on digital marketing in summers in his home town Jabalpur.  

He can be contacted :

pateluday90@hotmailcom

9755089323  

My First Tiger Safari

 “Shhh! Keep Quiet! Stop Cribbing”.

I was not cribbing; it was fear that had transgressed skin deep and was making my bones rattle. My jaws were wide open and quivering uncontrollably, I was barely able to form words. It was like I was hit by a jolt of lightning.  If my memory serves me right, I was incessantly pleading with the mahout to turn back.    

We were at Bandhavgarh National Park in Madhya Pradesh in India, and this was my first elephant ride in the dense thickets. We were moving slowly on a narrow track surrounded by marsh and puddles a rarity in hot summer.  Bandhavgarh is also a tiger reserve, a conservation unit meant to save this critically endangered species. Tourism although restricted offers tourists an insight into these mysterious tropical Sal forests and the denizens that live in the ecosystem.   

My uncle sat calmly comprehending my unease which had turned into fear. Being a bidi manufacturer dealing in tendu leaves, he had on a number of occasions come across the big cats. He had completely lost the fear of these magnificent creatures but was rather unnerved by my incessant chatter during the encounter. 

“This is a rare sighting”, he said. “Sit back and enjoy”. The mahout could gauze my discomfort and fear as well and in a few comforting words, he tried to calm me. “The tiger is in unknown territory and confused,” he said.

I could see the big cat moving haphazardly. He would come near us close to a few meters, and then move back a short distance right on the path that our elephant was on.  The elephant stood still with no place to go. This continued for some nerve-wracking time before the feline took a giant leap over a large puddle and vanished.

I could see the big cat in flight over the puddle such a huge body was effortlessly in the air with one giant thrust from his powerful hind legs. Male tigers weigh around two hundred and fifty kilos in Central India and this one seemed to tip the scale. It is not only brute strength and power; paradoxically these cats are one of the most graceful creatures on Earth. In natural surroundings their beauty is incomparable.     

This was my first encounter with the magical beast who has an equal presence in folklore and myths besides battling for survival in our reserves.  Sighting that cat barely a few meters from us was a frightening experience although there were no threatening gestures or a charge meant to drive us away. The huge animal appeared an expressionless, bearded monster at close quarters but was nevertheless extremely charismatic and majestic.  Words fail to describe this animal and the encounter in a few phrases but you have to see it to recall its appearance in your own voice and tone.  

The confusion was palpable. My uncle later told me that these creatures are sure about everything they do, but in this instance, he had ventured into new territory and probably sighted humans on an elephant back for the first time. Big cats from non-tourism areas are wary of humans and their contraptions.  But they soon get acclimatized and then rarely bother the tourist and the staff. 

The visit turned me into a nature lover and many more visits took place to these esoteric lands of India. There are now more than fifty tiger reserves meant to save the tiger by bringing it back from the brink of extinction.

The first encounter with the big cat was an eye-opening moment, and to this date, I am a freelance naturalist due to my fascination with wilderness. I keep myself busy with content writing and search engine optimization nowadays to keep my bread and butter on the roll. But whenever time allows, I visit the reserves as a tourist or with some hotel guests as a guide.

Although I have come across these predators many times I still yearn for that memorable event. That first sighting of the tiger confused and vulnerable perhaps feeling as vulnerable as I have found a permanent place in the convoluted labyrinths of my mind. I was unacclimatized with jungle life and the surroundings held me mesmerized. How I yearned for a tiger would emerge from a bush and had straight towards me sitting on the elephant's back. My respected uncle is no more perhaps his sagacity and experience are not required now after so many adventures in the wild. But if a moment could be recreated, I would yearn to go back in time and experience again.     

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Uday works as a freelance naturalist and loves to write on related issues. He also provides SEO and content writing services. He runs classes on digital marketing in summers in his home town Jabalpur.  

He can be contacted :

pateluday90@hotmailcom

9755089323  

 

Amazing Jungle Lore - The Tiger & The Bison - Coexistence in Harmony

One Hot Summer!

Guests Ansi & Micheal UK

Courtyard House Kanha

Kanha National Park - Central India 

Little could I imagine whence I stopped the safari jeep at Nakti Ghati (a large water body) as to what would transpire.  Wild safaris at Kanha National Park turn electric at any given moment but more so if you know the place well and the movement of the animals.   

Albeit, I knew this was the area of a huge male, we actually stopped to get a glimpse of birds as well as admire the lovely and pristine landscape. Kanha landscape retains its pristine glory, frozen in time and space whence our prehistoric ancestors roamed in the wilderness. The tigers in this area are less seen...one reason being less vehicular movement. Hence it is at such places that surprise sightings take place. 

Confined to our jeep, I was photographing the creatures of the wetland, and my guest was busy admiring the surroundings. Well, we were in no hurry as some jeeps zipped past us. 

"Let them go," I blurted to the guide and the driver. "We are in no hurry!" 

My movements during the safaris are sometimes heavily labored as I try to capture the essence of every nook and corner...in jungle parlay, it means a niche habitat. 

Those who have never been to Kanha should visit the Nakti Ghati water body if they ever do. We were heading towards the Kanha Meadow in order to see the tigers which we had located in the morning. And so after the brief, we decided to move ahead. But as soon as the driver placed his fingers on the starter I  stopped him. 

"A sambar alarm cry," I whispered. 

Now, this is a sure-shot sign of a tiger's presence for these large Asian deers' are rarely alarmed by small predators or spooked, and not often surprised by jeep movements. 

"It could be a leopard," my driver whispered back. Well, I had seen tiger pug marks often here and I was expecting one to arrive to drink. Anyway, we decided to wait, the alarm cries continued intermittently stopping for a brief - now and then. 

In order to track tigers one needs incredible patience and the time-tested quality of all experienced naturalists and forest guides. There is a deep urge to move ahead in order not to miss the imagined. Ha!    

"Let's shift the jeep back to the bunch of trees behind us, I instructed the driver." He did. 

In the case of tigresses most of them are very very shy and if you are not inconspicuous or dead silent they never emerge as has been my experience. 

The alarm cries were confusing emerging from different directions but all close by. This made us think that a tigress was trying to move stealthily away from us after having seen the jeep. They usually do before we can spot them. 

Well, we stayed put, and silent. Nothing happened, and the forest guide suggested that we move ahead without losing any more time. We waited for almost half an hour. But I had an inclination that whatever it was a tiger or a tigress it had moved behind us. So I instructed the driver to move behind us to about twenty yards and wait for at least five minutes. Well, we did not have to wait that long. For from behind the faraway bushes a huge male tiger emerged walked coolly towards us, crossed the road, and headed towards the water body. These creatures, the male tigers are bold and dominant, they rarely flinch a muscle in presence of man.



Can you imagine what transpires in your mind and body whence you sight a tiger like that? If you cannot then join me on a tiger safari and bet on your luck and my tracking. Both are essential. Anyway, my guests were busy with their mobile cameras, and I with my Sony Bridge Camera busy making a video.   

We knew that the tiger (with a gash on the right brow) would move toward the water in this summer heat. And so we moved back to the wooden bridge at Nakti Ghati and found the tiger immersing back first into the water. It had managed to frighten the sambar and spotted deer but a group of bison (Gaur) persisted. 

Normally the snorting bison (blowing wind from their nostrils) move away to avoid being close to this magnificent predator. But this did not happen. 

An Amazing Spectacle! A Spirit of Coexistence!

There were two behavioral surprises here. One, the tiger nearly always moves away from the huge bison. In fact, most of the guides do not look for the big cat in the vicinity of the Gaur. The second surprise was that the bison kept a safe distance from the predator. This time they stayed close busy quenching their thirst.

None of this happened as we watched absolutely stunned. The distance between the tiger in water and the gaurs was perhaps not more than five yards. And both were quenching their thirst peacefully without any apprehension. I have captured this sighting in my videos and inserted them here.

In wild, energy is a crucial life support element to be preserved, the bisons having noticed the mood of the male tiger were at ease and did not scamper away. They could see him well and hence could scamper if any aggression did take place. That saves energy!

There was no show of aggression as both had one purpose quenching thirst in the heat of the summer. The bison, as usually all females were in a group, so less chance of being attacked. Anyway, the carnivore was not on a hunt. 

The moral of the story lives in harmony with a spirit of coexistence in diversity.  

We watched the spectacle in peace for a long time as the tiger often raised his huge head to look at us now and then. In absolute silence and privacy, we waited a long time enjoying the ethereal moment, and then turned back to the gate to make a timely exit.

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Uday Works as Sr.Naturalist at Kanha National Park in India
He loves to blog on Indian Wildlife and Tiger Conservation
Contact: pateluday90@hotmail.com
Mob:9755089323

Clive & Ruth's Photographic Expeditions

Clive & Ruth Photographers UK

Tiger Safari

Guests Courtyard House Kanha

Naturalist Uday Patel

Clive is a professional wildlife photographer and keen wildlifer along with Ruth who equals enthusiasm and clicks wonderful images as well. Their enthusiasm for wilderness and local cultures is unmatched. They have visited India many times and are keen travelers from the United Kingdom.

They are our regular guests at Courtyard House Kanha. This season we had some exciting safaris and photographic adventures at Kanha National Park. 

Though the focus was on tigers we came across many other wild animals, and the guests photographed them with vigor. On this tour, they have taken thousands of photographs. They have been kind to send some of their works to Kanha and Panna. 

Changeable Hawk Eagle

Jackal

Tiger

Panther

Sloth Bear

Tiger

More on tiger photo tours with Clive the wildlife photographer.

Post Monsoon Safaris A Wild Goose Chase?

Well not exactly but searching for tigers during the period whence monsoon has just ended is an exhausting  exercise. Tigers are scarce while sightings mostly are of short duration and safaris often are not fruitful. But let me add this happens usually if it rains or drizzles or is intensely cloudy. The likely hood of this kind of the weather is much more whence the park begins in the month of October.  

Good weather in tiger reserves means good sightings post monsoon, winters or summers. Bad weather any time and you  are likely to miss the boat.

Tiger is an elusive beast and a wanderer especially the males. The males guard their territory avidly and post monsoon the water availability and presence of prey everywhere makes territorial patrolling easy and less trouble some.  Hence whence you are searching for tiger in the tourism zone he is well outside of it.

Females too wander extensively but usually those with cubs do not stray far for hunting. They are well ensconced in the dense canopy and do not come out needlessly. But knowing their movements helps in tracking them down.   The biggest joy is to find them with cubs which needs a lot of skill and understanding of their movements and of course a long wait. 

This period also requires extensive safaris because tigers can be found anywhere even in the buffer where most of the accommodations are located. So keep your senses on alert. Areas where extensive human movement has not taken place can yield surprises post monsoon.   

Tigers new to tourism zone are often seen at places unexpectedly this is the greatest fun. Regular movements of the big cats can also change put stress on you to redo your mathematics.     

Albeit safaris should be holistic which we make it but there could be instance whence the guest is only interested in the tiger. Well this is not surprising as we all wish to see one but an all-round interest in nature is rewarding, And this is the right approach as tigers are sometimes not seen during a trip making most of the amazing wilderness, birds and magnificent animals leads to a successful trip. 

 Photo Credits Anshuman Singh.

Paul & Amanda - Tiger Safari

Guests Paul Diggins & Amanda UK 
Courtyard House Kanha
Kanha National Park - India 
June 2017 

Tiger amidst Bamboo clumps 

"The weather is uncertain it may rain damping our tiger safari, "I informed the guests. For visitors from far-off lands expectations loom large and rightly so. Short of holiday time, they may not be making another trip to India. That makes my job as a naturalist more challenging and anxiety-filled. - the desire to see a tiger is ever-encompassing for lovers of wildlife and holidaymakers alike.

Why Not? See for yourself. 

Tigers are usually seen with difficulty. This is the inherent nature of big predators they are all time evading the prying eyes of the prey as well as humans which enter their domain. There cannot be a more exciting event than to chance this magnificent predator. 

It is one of the most beautiful and graceful animals in the wild. In fact, it is matchless with its predatory instinct that accords esoteric behavior traits in its natural habitat.    

After four dull safaris, the situation had become gloomy. But thankfully, there were more rounds to go. Those arriving to see tigers at Kanha National Park must plan for at least six safaris in any season, especially wintertime. The fruitful tourism zones keep on changing hence visit all the zones on your trip to this amazing reserve in Central India.  

Anyway, things changed soon we were able to sight a young male tiger on the fifth safari whom we had been unable to trek on the first day. The pug marks suggested a full-grown huge tiger and whence encountered it on this day our surmise proved right. This was one of the fasted growing cubs of the Umarpani tigress and has four cubs now on verge of separation. This male now fully grown and about two and a half is charting his own territory as he is number one on the line. Possibly he has started making his own kills but is on some occasions seen with the mother.        

On the return, we had a brief encounter with Neelam tigress (blue beauty) who rules Kanha meadows. She has four cubs which are seen in very few instances. Much like her name she is one of the most beautiful tigers to see. She had been wandering with her last litters and managed to lose them to a rival tigress. I hope to see has become wiser and would keep her progeny in the safer confines of the meadows.     

The last safari yielded the big male T2. The magnificent carnivore is one of the largest seen in the tourism zone and has overtaken the legendary Munna. Unlike Munna T2 is very aggressive and charges with impunity if disturbed. He is said to have mated with tigresses in his territory and promised future upholds the tiger reserve.     

Male Tiger

Images Paul Diggins UK 

Tiger Surprise: Out of The Tunnel!

UK Guests at Courtyard House: Emma
Tiger Safari At Kanha National Park

Water Body - Uday Patel 

It was one of the difficult evenings at Kanha Zone. The tigress and her four grown-up cubs were not being sighted for some time and suddenly there was gloom. This is one tigress that is easily sighted and guides take easy credit whenever she is seen. 

So the first move that is made upon entering Kanha Zone is to drive straight to Link No.7 and explore all the water bodies. It is most likely that the big cat family would be there and bingo your guests are all smiles. Many times it does not happen that way especially whence the family migrates to nontourist areas.    

It was a bright and sunny summer evening whence we arrived at Kanha Zone. 

"What shall we do?" the guide asked. "Should we look for Neelam?"

There was little possibility of catching up with the Umarpani tigress and her grown-up cubs. They were not seen for some time. 

"That's a good idea!" I exclaimed. "By the time we run through Link 7, there is no time for excursions in another area." 

So that was it and we began moving towards Schaller's hide where Neelam and her four little cubs are seen. They are seen less frequently since the cubs are small and hence the mother keeps them hidden, 

A dull evening I thought. There was not a single vehicle on this tract and we were cruising alone. On safari it is always sensible to drive at a slow speed else you will miss a lot of signs that would lead to a tiger or other animals. And birds as well.     

We covered a long distance with no luck. We were making halts at many places to look for birds and animals. My idea was to kill time and wait for the Sun to mellow down. Tigers dislike heat and direct sunlight whence it is at its peak.    

Eventually, we were to reach the culvert near which the tigress keeps her cubs whence in the meadows. A stream flows underneath in between the grasses that are a unique feature of Kanha Meadow.

It all happened in a flash. As we reached the culvert out popped a huge tigress from the tunnel through which the stream flowed... I could see her flying away from us. She landed on the ledge of the stream gnarled viciously at us and then trotted down to the grass patch amidst the stream. She kept looking at us as curiously as cats do.   

Tiger in Marsh - Uday Patel 

We kept looking at her as amazing as we can be upon sighting this majestic creature no less a wonder of the World.

It seems that the big cat was resting in the cool confines of the tunnel in the culvert. Tigers love water and the stream flowing underneath must have been comforting in that blistering heat of the summer Sun. The noise of the engine awoke her from her slumber and surprised her. Well anyway, the Sun had mellowed down and it was time for her to reach her cubs. We could not find the cubs around her. Well never mind Ha!   

My guest was spellbound by the sudden encounter but did take pictures as well as they could. Excitement rose towering over calm and composure as it usually happens upon exciting finds. It was amazing the big cat slid down amidst the grass and it became difficult to see here. Anyway, the evening had been made. A tiger sighting for our esteemed guests Emma and her husband.    

Tiger Safari: Rumble in The Jungle

Guests Mary & Andrew UK

Enthusiasm is the key to enjoying nature in the confines of dense forests. 

"We have come to enjoy all and make our holiday a big success," Mary said. "It's just not tiger, we wish to go back with happy memories," she continued.       

The evening was fun as we sat near the fireplace enjoying our sundowners, and the starry night at Courtyard House Kanha in Central India.   

As it was to be, we came across many birds, bison, and deer, and the guest enjoyed the landscape too. They were clicking nature's bounty with amazing finesse. Being amateur photographers they were well-versed in photography.

Hot and Spicy Food went down well with them ."A bit too much but we will bear it". "Ha! Ha". I was amused,  they were being sporty. Nevertheless wonderful evenings, amazing soups, and titbits with beer and my rum.    

One day too we did come across the tiger in the dense canopy of the Kanha Zone. "Sleeping like a drugged fellow", I whispered. "Well, a tiger lies there."    

Then what followed in the following evening was amazing.   

"A leopard went in the bush just now," excited tourists on the jeep informed us. "Wow"! We missed it or did we?

Ruddy Mongoose

Indian Roller

We drove a few yards ahead and waited. "It seems to have proceeded further into the jungle," the guide said with dismay. "No wait, "I said. The big cat may be lurking in the bush, I thought. And it was. : Like a peeping Tom it came out cautiously and looked straight at us. 

Sleeping Tiger

The mellow flare of the setting sun made it appear golden red as it came out in the open looking curiously at us. It was cautious and as we neared it went back into the bush. Well, it came out again and our guests could take more photos.  A great spectacle indeed.   

Jackal

Next Evening. 

Munna Tiger

Munna Looking at Us

Munna Male Tige r

Then came the big bounty. While returning from Sarhi Zone, Santosh our driver spotted tracks of a big male. "Turn around," I said.  

Nice Place to Spray

Munna as usual was ambling around at a leisurely pace with a bunch of jeeps in tow. That was it, a safari made holistic and exciting.

Scaly Bellied Munia 

Peeping Leopard

We came across many delights as you can see from the images Thanks to Mary & Andrew.

Tigeress in the Ethereal Morning

I asked the guide to move through Salghat a low lying mountain with lot of Sal trees hence the name. It was a beautiful morning at Kanha National Park and as usual I was with my foreign guests from Courtyard House. A cool wind blew past us as me moved along the incline.

"Salghat?" 

"Yes', I said.

Driving very slowly we had  reached the cross road, I asked the driver to move towards Badrinath and head straight towards Sarvan Taal at Kanha Zone. We crossed over the striking grasslands of Kanha meadows and then reached a water body called Phuta Taal.  We continued.  

The transformation was electric, before we could see the tigress the drama unfolded. We found monkeys scurrying up the trees and then the hollow alarm cry of the spotted deer began. We knew there was a big cat on the way and rightly so. It emerged from the shadow of the trees neighboring the lake and headed straight towards us.   

The spectacular display of the swamp deer and its raucous cries was a rare event to witness as the tigress cut across the road past us. She continued to walk graceful emerging from thickets accompanied by dulcet roars. She came out in the open and then went into hiding behind the bushes. 

The event unfolded as she continued to move back past Phuta Taal at a graceful place totally ignorant of us and the frantic life all around her. The jeeps started arriving as we signaled them but there was no hurry, the big cat was aiming for a long walk and that it did. 

All the jeeps had rushed towards the Silyari Lake since Munna the male tiger was sighted a day before in the evening. I knew that there would be an undisturbed ground for the tigress to amble free...and so it happened. My guests from UK clicked merrily amazed at the turn of events.  Completely Zapped.

Tigress - Dinesh Makhija

Swamp Deer - Dinesh Makhija

         

A tiger at ten for the General - Yes Again - He!He!

The entourage landed in the afternoon at Courtyard House full of expectancy. The General full of smiles appeared relaxed and was expecting much more. 

"A tiger would be fine" he said to me. "Else Kanha will be a wonderful experience anyway."  

The General and his family made us feel at ease. Smiling and beaming upon seeing the Courtyard House the family did not seemed tired from travel at all. 

The General's Entourage & Us

Time to Leave

Neelesh Agarwal Owner

Just two safaris is not enough to see the tiger sometimes and we missed Munna and Dig Dola Tigeress fair and square in the evening safari. We also missed a new male tiger by inches as he vanished into the forest before our arrival. We came to know this from the laborers and the jeeps waiting in expectation.

The next day we did not come close to any tiger on the way to Kanha Zone. We waited at Ghoda Chapar where I had seen Munna male tiger while guiding a Scottish Couple. "No sign of tiger," the guide remarked and we moved forward.  

The meadows at Kanha were empty and lifeless when we arrived through the forests. After lot of futile searching we decided to have breakfast along with Mr.O.P.Tiwari the Deputy FD of Kanha. While having breakfast I heard alarm calls from somewhere near the Minkur Nala crossroad. Earlier a jeep had encountered a tigress with a fawn which she had killed crossing over the road here.

As we left to continue our safari the General said,"A tiger at Ten!" I affirmed his belief and we proceeded to the spot where the tigress was seen. 

Look the tigress has not enough to eat and she will rise again," I said. Rightly so after few minutes of waiting a monkey alarm cry confirmed our belief, the tigress was just a short distance from us in the bush. We were waiting in expectation which proved rewarding. From our left at Kanha meadow a serious of loud alarm cries confirmed presence of the tiger.  

Medal for Courtyard House

Me & the medal

So we had two tigers to chance upon. "Keep an eye on the jeep on road at Minkur Nala," I told the guide. Well said I thought as the jeep started moving in the reverse. Move back the guide said to the driver but very slowly. As we were moving on the Minkur Nala road the guide spotted the tiger. It was the tigress's cub about fifteen months which moves along with its siblings on Kanha Meadow. The rest is history as the young tiger moved around without fear. The young tiger had emerged right at ten and I shook my head in disbelief. The General smiled at me. 

The tigress did not venture out and we left for our abode. It was a happy ending and post lunch we bid farewell to a smiling and beaming General and his entourage.      

Tiger Safari: Raining Big Cats

The leopard must have been waiting still for long completely frozen and hidden in bamboo stunts.  The big cats both the tigers and leopards have an incredible ability to stay still perhaps for hours in order to surprise and ambush their prey. 

In one instance it was all over the large spotted deer was grounded instantly. We heard the deer's last cry before the canines ruptured the jugular. We had reached the Kanha Ghat road from Raja Kachhar a water body in Kisli Region of Kanha some distance from the Chimpta Camp. 

The cry emanated from the direction we were heading. We waited to make out the right location of the cry and missed one of the most thrilling moment. The kill happened few yards ahead of us and we could not witness. By the time we  reached the spot the majestic antlered deer was lying dead in the pool of blood. The leopard we knew was hidden in the bamboo bushes. 

"There!" The guide on jeep ahead pointed the bush to us as they moved on ahead. 

We decided to wait. The kill was too precious for the hungry leopard to leave. With excitement overpowering us we managed to wait silently for the animal to emerge.  We could see him inch towards the kill and then retract a couple of times. He was in no hurry to forage. The prey was too big for him that meant he had to drag it in the bush and consume.      

We wanted to photograph him but he would just inch towards the carcass and retract. The cat and human game continued for some time then there was silence. Many jeeps came after us but unfortunately they could not see the Kanha leopard.

My guests from UK - Cavan, Grace and Gwayne had earlier seen two young tigers at Badrinath in Kanha Meadow and the leopard sighting was a bonus. But more was yet to come. 

The same evening we saw a male tiger in the bush at Badrinath in Kanha Meadow. This was followed by another fantastic leopard on the rock sighting. Incredible posture of the big cat was a big opportunity for the wildlife photographers - amateurs and professionals.  The guests from Mumbai at Courtyard House could also see the spectacle and were happy. They had come to relax and enjoy great food at Courtyard House and they did, besides the Leopard Darshan.  

The morning ride to Mukki Zone was uneventful till we returned back to Kanha Ghat and saw another leopard in the canopy near the Kisli Meadow. That same evening we saw a young male tiger emerge from the bush at Badrinath and proceed towards the rivulet to drink. It was an ethereal moment as the big cat quenched his thirst. Busy photographers, gawking tourists, happy naturalists and guides all witnessed this spectacle. The guest from Mumbai were missing so I had some story to narrate. Well I did.

"Really!"   

The Dancing Queen of Kanha

Tigress Safari at Kanha National Park in India. 

We first noticed her pug marks on Link Number Nine mid way towards the Kanha Meadow. It was the guide who first heard the faint alarm cry of the langur near the Link Number Nine at Kanha National Park in India.  I was busy scoring the grassland in front of us. "Call from behind," the guide whispered.   "Move" I tell the driver. We move few paces to a spot at the junction from where we could see all the intersecting roads. 

Earlier, while passing through the meadow a small herd of doe and fawns had scurried across the road. There was trepidation sketched all over their countenance and their tails were erect . The driver paid no heed but the guide and me both old hands at Kanha did. We continued towards the Kanha Meadow and stopped to hear the alarm cries.  But still, there was suspicion lurking in my mind and I wanted to go back

"One alarm cry only" the other jeep driver told us. "Santosh move back!" I told our driver. "Yes Sir," the guide barked with excitement too. The driver was hesitant..."Move Back" I said in a commanding voice. We reached the spot and waited, many jeeps passed by us, one or two stopped and the rest did not believe us. 

The monkey warning call, our reverse movement, the emergence of the tiger from Link No.9 all happened with lightening speed.  "Tiger!" I shouted. In a split second Elizabeth turned around and clicked. I was stunned by her speed and alacrity. "Here have a look," she told me, "I got it."     

It was a dainty tigress but confusingly small. "Lovely lass" I whispered much to the chagrin of this beautiful lady. Unnh Uhoon! I could make out the meaning he! he!

We moved a short distance on road to Kanha Meadow and waited. By now some more jeeps had lined up in expectation.  We kept a significant gap in between from the jeep ahead. By chance the tigress emerged in front of our jeep and scurried across the road. She danced through the lazy bushes and vanished. Elizabeth from Sweden could take more good pictures by now.   

We than proceed to the meadow junction and waited. The tigress did not emerge. "By now it should be on that other part of the meadow" I whispered to the guide. The guide did not need any suggestion. The alarm cry confirmed my deduction and we had a good look at the tigress moving across the bush in the Kanha Meadow. Much to our surprise she was joined by one of her heavily striped cub. By this time a large number of jeeps had lined up and tourists were enjoying the sight of the beautiful tigress and her cub prancing across the grassland.  

Thermo-regulation that's what kept the big cats in the grassland. After a bitter chilly night, fog and mist the lovely Sun had emerged. We were all basking in the Sun's glory along with the big cats. This was a picturesque setting  and wonderful, ethereal, moment.

Tiger safaris can be thrilling but not always. This one was, and our guest at Courtyard House, Elizabeth had a whale of a time shooting the small family of tigers. But there was a hint of worry, and I wanted to make sure about the other cubs. They were not there, but I hope all have survived since tigress's give birth to a litter of three or four cubs. In subsequent trips we will discover. The best I could make out was the tigress was probably with her first litter and cub was about a year old.

This is all tiger tracking is about - split second decision, understanding of tiger movements and associates. A highly sensitive sensory apparatus. What not!He!He!

(Photographs awaited).

Medal from the General at Kanha Tiger Reserve

 

After a successful tiger safari, I was presented with a medal by  General  Bakshi along with Mr. Neelesh Agarwal owner of Courtyard House Kanha. It was a very pleasing moment for all of us. 

Uday Patel on the Left in Black Koti

 

 

Munna Tiger at Kanha

We are at Kanha on tiger safari. My guests from Sweden and India are excited and intrigued. This is their first tiger safari in India and expectations are high. We climb up the Sal Ghat Road in the Kisli Range hoping to see Munna and a female that often arrives here.   

With their cameras ready the guest priority is the tiger which disappoints me. I would like to give equal importance to birds of Kanha. Searching for tigers in their wild habitat is a tough task whence they are not stressed out to be on the move.  But there is always a chance of sighting one on the jungle road,

As we move forward we see no signs of the big cat but plenty of other game like sambar, spotted deer and many birds. We continue driving uphill on the torturous trek my eyes glued for moving leaves or rustle in the bush. My ears are alert to catch the tiger vocals...it is a desperate bid in this season as tigers do not move much unlike the summers.   

The jungles of India always hold big surprise to those with patience. About half way up the Sal Ghat we come across excited chatter of jeeps the ensuing commotion is suggestive of the big cat. We hold our ground as Munna emerges behind the jeep and heads toward us. 

The tigers are not very tall and maximum height is two and half feet. This helps them in ambush as they can easily hide in the grass and bush. Seen upfront the size is not evident. but when we saw this animal sideways we were stunned by the size. The huge tiger is about 250 KG and dominates the Kanha Park by its sheer size and strength.

We drove on reverse as we have to maintain a distance of twenty meters by the park rules. The tiger walks very fast and it came upon us very close. Oblivious of the jeeps and commotion the animal kept on invading. This is the moment whence the inexperienced are frightened. Big male tigers do not bother about safari jeeps albeit they are aware. You have to give ground to these tigers else they come frighteningly close. In case of delay in moving away the tiger slips into the adjoining forest. It is truly a gentleman.

Munna is a dominant tiger and moves around the major portion of the park with brazen impunity. He has sired many cubs through tigresses in his territory. As long as he is strong he will hold on to his kingdom and eventually lose to an emerging male. This is how nature works the survival of the fittest through best gene selection.   

My guests were happily clicked away to their hearts content. Things are not always the same after seeing this big cat. We moved on silently happy and excited after the marvelous tiger tour at Kanha National Park in Central India. Back at the Courtyard House accommodation in Kanha I could look at the images. The images sent by our guests are included in this blog.           

On subsequent jeep safaris my guests came across a sloth bear with two cubs. The sighting is no less exciting for true nature lovers. Animals big and small are charismatic creations of nature and we should admire them. Kanha Park is popular with birders from all over the globe. Keep a good pair of binoculars on safaris.