SanJay Dubri Tiger Reserve - Realm of The White Tiger

Tiger at Mandova

Uh! Oh! Uh! O!

Uh!Oh!Uh!O! 

The singsong was like a magical utterance! We had tracked this big cat when an alarmed rhesus macaque cried out loud and was frequent. 

All I could see were buttocks dancing in front of me as he uttered! He was leaning on the windshield of the open jeep pointing his ah towards me. I stood up! Subash handed me the binoculars, which I forwarded to Mr. Neelash Agarwal the owner of Indiafootprints Adventure & Courtyard House Kanha.   

I could see clearly the blotch of white against the cryptic green of disheveled grass. 

"The tiger is looking straight at us," Neelesh Bhai whispered barely able to conceal his excitement.  

We were inside Sanjay National Park and tiger reserve in the Seedhi District of Madhya Pradesh. This was an exploratory visit for Indiafootprints Tours and to establish a new property like Courtyard House Kanha. 

Our first safari was in the company of Seedhi Naturalist Subash Singh and HomebyBanas owner Ajeet Mishra. The energetic young lads did not falter in introducing the tiger reserve to us as we started the Home Stay. This tiger called T5 was a middle-aged male in his prime and quite handsome. He was wary of us and thus got up walked over a ridge and then came down to rest a little distance away. This was at Mandova at the Dubri Zone.  

Watch Tower

Banas Forest River

The long river stretch between tropical forests bordered by the sandy beach had us gasping for breath literarily speaking. Like a necklace, it inundates the reserve from all sides and connects perennial streams within the reserve creating an invaluable life support system. 

Banas River along with Son River forms a large catchment in this region and nurtures tropical moist deciduous forests which stretch through to Chhattisgarh State bordering East. The waterway is clean, unpolluted by industrial effluents, and pristine. Gharial, the endangered crocodile species is found in Son River at a distance of hundred kilometers. 

Banas River SDTR

The river intersects the National Park creating an enigmatic splendor and panoramic excellence that makes safaris in the park a captivating experience.  The place is a promising destination connected by good roads and major towns. It is ideal for animal and bird-watching holidays in Central India. 

SDTR ForestScape

I stood on the bridge to capture images of this panoramic spread.  Tiger reserve engulfing pristine ecosystems always creates a mesmerizing experience and the tigers within add to it all to make your journey memorable. In some places, ancient ideological structures narrate India's extensive Hindu past and add an esoteric charm to the destinations. The tribal excelled in creating Hindu temples and idols out of rocky outcrops and igneous slabs....we will search for them on our next visit. 

Sanjay Dubri Tiger Reserve - A Paradise Found    

Forest & Tiger

A long stretch of forest connected with Bandhavgarh National Park and Guru Ghasidas Wildlife Sanctuary in the neighboring state of Chattisgarh Sanjay Dubri is a paradise found.  Tigers are flourishing here but a big gap exists. There are estimated to be around twenty-plus big cats here, and this is anybody's guess. Our safari in the Dubri Zone resulted in a tiger sighting on the first visit and only one species of deer namely Chital, wild boar, rhesus macaque, Hanuman langur, and Nilgai Antelope. Tiger sighting seems to be good here with a ratio of one sighting in four safaris. The sloth bear is frequently seen here. 

Gate SDTR

The jungle roads were full of pug marks and we heard big cats in one place. There are supposed to be three breeding females one in Dubri Zone. Females from ensuing litter are about little over two years and maybe more, and reaching breeding age. They have not seen cubs yet.

The habitat in the core is a complete ecosystem with an amazing network of perennial streams as per the naturalist and homestay owner. We came across many water bodies and they looked promising enough to face the extreme heat of summer. 

The core stretches for over eight hundred square kilometers and is riddled with human intrusions. Though admirable work is being done at Sanjay Dubri the intractable local lords are stemming the process. 

For  those who will put a question mark here, let me tell you that tigers and other life form need inviolate areas to survive. Human onslaught on our forest ecosystems does not take long to fathom after one visit to most of our tiger reserves.

This idea of man animal coexistence is chimerical and shaped mostly by human greed leaving no space for precious wilderness. If we do not relent our nextgen will pay the price of living in isolation.      

Tiger is gaining a foothold again in India and the inviolate protected areas are indispensable for its survival.  

Forest in Core

Limited Entry

Unfortunately, the human hold is visible everywhere and with only nine vehicles allowed in one ride, there seems to be no scope for future ecotourism ventures here. If you visit Kanha and Bandhavgarh you will see how robust the local economy is with jobs for local communities and small business opportunities and empowerment of the population as a whole. 

Long hidden from the public gaze, an open approach here will be helpful in addressing our unemployment problem. An ecotourism-friendly policy that keeps the sanctity of this ecosystem in mind and takes vulnerable species' survival into account need not be constricting depriving people of valuable inheritance benefits. Our parks depend much upon the humanity around for preservation, and the people can be the best guardians if they see a future as stakeholders here.   

History - White Tiger - Mohun

The white tiger was found here along with normal-colored cubs within the confines of Sanjay National Park. This was brought to the notice of then Maharajah of Rewa HH Martand Singhji a hunter-turned-conservationist, he immediately took the orphaned cubs in his care at Govindgarh Fort. The white tiger cub survived and was named Mohun (a captivating one in Hindi). Mohun can be seen in the preserved form at Maharani Kothi at Tala in Bandhavgarh Tiger Reserve. All white tigers survive in captivity all over the World and carry the genes of Mohun.. for only one white tiger carrying this recessive gene was ever found in the wild... 

Seedhi was in the jurisdiction of Maharajahs of Rewa and was famed for its big cats. The Maharajahs have built a Kothi here which has been taken over by the Government. Remains of hides are found scattered in the forests. HH Martand Singhji was very popular among his subjects and in later life, he focused on getting rid of troublesome big cats.    

Subash Singh Naturalist

Enthusiasm bubbles over all his countenance and the rotund gait are hardly suggestive of a man of the wilderness look. But there he is and conducts his discourses on nature very well. He was enthusiastic about meeting us and accompanied us on the wildlife safari at Sanjay Tiger Reserve. He is well-versed in ornithology and loves his job.  He has penned a book on the reserve and it is a valuable resource. 

Ajit Mishra - Owner HomebyBanas

The name HomebyBanas is a suggestion by Neelesh Bhai the real name is Shri Sai Resort. We suggested he keep the Lord in his heart and soul and accord a more ecotourism-friendly name.  

The homestay location cannot be better for a wilderness resort. It is one of the best situations for a wildlife resort I have ever come across. Right next to an enviable stretch of Banas River you can take a nature walk on the beach in the company of big cats. The spot is ideal for high tea and picnic or just to take a leisurely walk.  Serenity and peace rule here.

The three-room structure is neat, spacious, and well-appointed with climate control (AC) and an attached bathroom. A garden in the front, forest onside, what more does a person on safari holiday can expect. The accommodation serves local varieties of cuisine often cooked on firewood.  

Yes, the place is homely pleasing, affordable, and worth a stay if you are happy with simple surroundings and no star appeal. Ajeet Mishra the owner is a wildlife enthusiast and loves his business. We received much cooperation from him. He lives in Seedhi Town an hour's drive away.

How to Reach?     

Sanjay Tiger Reserve is well connected with Benaras and Allahabad two major UP towns with air connectivity.  The distance is approximately 250 km by road. The reserve is an hour's drive from Bandhavgarh Tiger Reserve in Umaria District. 

The route we followed:  Jabalpur Airport to Kundum - Shahpura - Umaria Town - Tala - Beohari - STR. The drive took us four hours non-stop through a smooth road all along.

Our Companions

Contact Ajeet Mishra FB - https://www.facebook.com/ajeet.mishra.9250

Home Stay

Subash Singh Naturalist - FB - https://www.facebook.com/subhash.singh.925602

Visit Courtesy - Mr. Neelesh Agrawal

Indiafootprints 

Courtyard House Kanha 

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Uday is a blogger and offers Seo + Content For Digital Marketing Services. 

He teaches digital marketing (SEO) in Jabalpur.

He freelances as a naturalist/birder at Kanha National Park. He loves to write about travel. 

He can be contacted at: 

pateluday90@hotmail.com

09755089323

Author

Tiger in The Rain

Guests Nick, Aaron & Becky UK 

Courtyard House Kanha 

Tigers Enchant! 

These mysterious creatures have lately given us the impression that we have come to know everything about them. Do we?

There is an aura around them and a mystery that deepens more whence you get to know them on your search in the reserve. I have come across the tigress subject of this entry earlier along with her three siblings time and again during their growing up period at Kanha National Park in Central India or the State of Madhya Pradesh.      

Unfortunately of the four siblings, two have been able to survive? Tigress cubs are often killed by rival males that have not sired them. Death can be a brutal mauling at the hand of the intruder. Hence until unless a surviving cub does not carve-outs in its own territory with dominance, its survival is under question. A relief discovery is that rival makes would more likely kill male cubs than females. But all younger cubs are killed if the rival wants to induce estrous in the mother. 

Tiger Cub

So we set out with Aaron and his parents in search of tigers and other animals whence they arrived at Courtyard House as guests on safaris. We did come across a tiger hidden amongst the bush and we could see its back, head, limbs, and body all disjointed by the bush. It was on a kill and we could hear the breaking of the bones as well. Well, that's that!   

Our search for tigers was disrupted by rains now and then and we had given up all hope of seeing another.  We did manage to see lovely creatures of the reserve and photograph them much to our joy!

Aaron had a wish on his birthday to see a tiger on the road. Well, it rained and rained. Huddled under the tarpaulin on the gypsy we had given up all hope for sighting a big cat on the road.   

"Tigers like us are irritated by droplets falling on them." Perhaps their metabolism slows down due to drop in temperature." This was my explanation to rather disappointed Aaron. I had seen a few big cats enjoying the rain during my work as a naturalist. 

While returning back to the camp, I decided to take the route where we had found tiger droppings and heard calls some distance away. "There is a thin chance.......".    "And the road is devoid of traffic that will increase our chance." A path less traversed.  

It was drizzling whence we were surprised by a young tigress peering at us from the bush beside the road.

"Tiger Loooooooooooooook!"

The rain-drenched creature was simply staring at us for a long time awestruck perhaps. Ha!

It then came on the road at a distance crossed over and was gone.

"Aaron Your Birthday Wish, I announced gleefully!"  

Tiger in Rain

Tigers are creatures of purpose and the rain does not hamper them. I made another discovery that day.  

Amazing Jungle Lore - The Tiger & The Bison - Coexistence in Harmony

One Hot Summer!

Guests Ansi & Micheal UK

Courtyard House Kanha

Kanha National Park - Central India 

Little could I imagine whence I stopped the safari jeep at Nakti Ghati (a large water body) as to what would transpire.  Wild safaris at Kanha National Park turn electric at any given moment but more so if you know the place well and the movement of the animals.   

Albeit, I knew this was the area of a huge male, we actually stopped to get a glimpse of birds as well as admire the lovely and pristine landscape. Kanha landscape retains its pristine glory, frozen in time and space whence our prehistoric ancestors roamed in the wilderness. The tigers in this area are less seen...one reason being less vehicular movement. Hence it is at such places that surprise sightings take place. 

Confined to our jeep, I was photographing the creatures of the wetland, and my guest was busy admiring the surroundings. Well, we were in no hurry as some jeeps zipped past us. 

"Let them go," I blurted to the guide and the driver. "We are in no hurry!" 

My movements during the safaris are sometimes heavily labored as I try to capture the essence of every nook and corner...in jungle parlay, it means a niche habitat. 

Those who have never been to Kanha should visit the Nakti Ghati water body if they ever do. We were heading towards the Kanha Meadow in order to see the tigers which we had located in the morning. And so after the brief, we decided to move ahead. But as soon as the driver placed his fingers on the starter I  stopped him. 

"A sambar alarm cry," I whispered. 

Now, this is a sure-shot sign of a tiger's presence for these large Asian deers' are rarely alarmed by small predators or spooked, and not often surprised by jeep movements. 

"It could be a leopard," my driver whispered back. Well, I had seen tiger pug marks often here and I was expecting one to arrive to drink. Anyway, we decided to wait, the alarm cries continued intermittently stopping for a brief - now and then. 

In order to track tigers one needs incredible patience and the time-tested quality of all experienced naturalists and forest guides. There is a deep urge to move ahead in order not to miss the imagined. Ha!    

"Let's shift the jeep back to the bunch of trees behind us, I instructed the driver." He did. 

In the case of tigresses most of them are very very shy and if you are not inconspicuous or dead silent they never emerge as has been my experience. 

The alarm cries were confusing emerging from different directions but all close by. This made us think that a tigress was trying to move stealthily away from us after having seen the jeep. They usually do before we can spot them. 

Well, we stayed put, and silent. Nothing happened, and the forest guide suggested that we move ahead without losing any more time. We waited for almost half an hour. But I had an inclination that whatever it was a tiger or a tigress it had moved behind us. So I instructed the driver to move behind us to about twenty yards and wait for at least five minutes. Well, we did not have to wait that long. For from behind the faraway bushes a huge male tiger emerged walked coolly towards us, crossed the road, and headed towards the water body. These creatures, the male tigers are bold and dominant, they rarely flinch a muscle in presence of man.



Can you imagine what transpires in your mind and body whence you sight a tiger like that? If you cannot then join me on a tiger safari and bet on your luck and my tracking. Both are essential. Anyway, my guests were busy with their mobile cameras, and I with my Sony Bridge Camera busy making a video.   

We knew that the tiger (with a gash on the right brow) would move toward the water in this summer heat. And so we moved back to the wooden bridge at Nakti Ghati and found the tiger immersing back first into the water. It had managed to frighten the sambar and spotted deer but a group of bison (Gaur) persisted. 

Normally the snorting bison (blowing wind from their nostrils) move away to avoid being close to this magnificent predator. But this did not happen. 

An Amazing Spectacle! A Spirit of Coexistence!

There were two behavioral surprises here. One, the tiger nearly always moves away from the huge bison. In fact, most of the guides do not look for the big cat in the vicinity of the Gaur. The second surprise was that the bison kept a safe distance from the predator. This time they stayed close busy quenching their thirst.

None of this happened as we watched absolutely stunned. The distance between the tiger in water and the gaurs was perhaps not more than five yards. And both were quenching their thirst peacefully without any apprehension. I have captured this sighting in my videos and inserted them here.

In wild, energy is a crucial life support element to be preserved, the bisons having noticed the mood of the male tiger were at ease and did not scamper away. They could see him well and hence could scamper if any aggression did take place. That saves energy!

There was no show of aggression as both had one purpose quenching thirst in the heat of the summer. The bison, as usually all females were in a group, so less chance of being attacked. Anyway, the carnivore was not on a hunt. 

The moral of the story lives in harmony with a spirit of coexistence in diversity.  

We watched the spectacle in peace for a long time as the tiger often raised his huge head to look at us now and then. In absolute silence and privacy, we waited a long time enjoying the ethereal moment, and then turned back to the gate to make a timely exit.

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Uday Works as Sr.Naturalist at Kanha National Park in India
He loves to blog on Indian Wildlife and Tiger Conservation
Contact: pateluday90@hotmail.com
Mob:9755089323

Tiger Surprise: Out of The Tunnel!

UK Guests at Courtyard House: Emma
Tiger Safari At Kanha National Park

Water Body - Uday Patel 

It was one of the difficult evenings at Kanha Zone. The tigress and her four grown-up cubs were not being sighted for some time and suddenly there was gloom. This is one tigress that is easily sighted and guides take easy credit whenever she is seen. 

So the first move that is made upon entering Kanha Zone is to drive straight to Link No.7 and explore all the water bodies. It is most likely that the big cat family would be there and bingo your guests are all smiles. Many times it does not happen that way especially whence the family migrates to nontourist areas.    

It was a bright and sunny summer evening whence we arrived at Kanha Zone. 

"What shall we do?" the guide asked. "Should we look for Neelam?"

There was little possibility of catching up with the Umarpani tigress and her grown-up cubs. They were not seen for some time. 

"That's a good idea!" I exclaimed. "By the time we run through Link 7, there is no time for excursions in another area." 

So that was it and we began moving towards Schaller's hide where Neelam and her four little cubs are seen. They are seen less frequently since the cubs are small and hence the mother keeps them hidden, 

A dull evening I thought. There was not a single vehicle on this tract and we were cruising alone. On safari it is always sensible to drive at a slow speed else you will miss a lot of signs that would lead to a tiger or other animals. And birds as well.     

We covered a long distance with no luck. We were making halts at many places to look for birds and animals. My idea was to kill time and wait for the Sun to mellow down. Tigers dislike heat and direct sunlight whence it is at its peak.    

Eventually, we were to reach the culvert near which the tigress keeps her cubs whence in the meadows. A stream flows underneath in between the grasses that are a unique feature of Kanha Meadow.

It all happened in a flash. As we reached the culvert out popped a huge tigress from the tunnel through which the stream flowed... I could see her flying away from us. She landed on the ledge of the stream gnarled viciously at us and then trotted down to the grass patch amidst the stream. She kept looking at us as curiously as cats do.   

Tiger in Marsh - Uday Patel 

We kept looking at her as amazing as we can be upon sighting this majestic creature no less a wonder of the World.

It seems that the big cat was resting in the cool confines of the tunnel in the culvert. Tigers love water and the stream flowing underneath must have been comforting in that blistering heat of the summer Sun. The noise of the engine awoke her from her slumber and surprised her. Well anyway, the Sun had mellowed down and it was time for her to reach her cubs. We could not find the cubs around her. Well never mind Ha!   

My guest was spellbound by the sudden encounter but did take pictures as well as they could. Excitement rose towering over calm and composure as it usually happens upon exciting finds. It was amazing the big cat slid down amidst the grass and it became difficult to see here. Anyway, the evening had been made. A tiger sighting for our esteemed guests Emma and her husband.    

Tiger in The Brook

Mr. Sivaraman & Family USA + TN 

Guests Courtyard House Kanha

The move belied all logic. The stream was full of deer and langur. There was no sign of the magnificent tiger all was magical, serene, and fairytale-like. After taking the morning round of safari at Sarhi Zone of Kanha National Park we were returned disappointed that the big cat had eluded us. 

I looked at my watch there was more than an hour to go. Nobody was expecting a tiger now since the sun had risen the animal does not like heat as we all know. It arrived in India from somewhere in Siberia or China about ten thousand years ago. The animal could not reach Sri Lanka as the Island had distanced itself from the mainland and was too far for the tiger to swim.  

We were returning via Karai Ghati Road famous haunt of magnificent male tigers, Munna, Dabang, Dhamangaon male, Saunder male, and new arrivals. The Budbudi female has been irrevocably etched in our minds by its presence at Budbudi Nala or the stream where we had come to a halt. 

We stood there admiring our surroundings, the enchanting stream full of life and the beautiful birds hidden in the shadowy crevices of dense leaves and twigs. That was all. 

Some jeeps arrived and looked at us with question marks. They did not bother to stop. Why should they with a bunch of deer and troops of langur all around the tranquil stream?

At Kanha, the mornings are chilly even in summer but the heat of the noon makes all run to the cozy comfort of climate-controlled environs of the wildlife resorts.  

There was an air of complete despondency with no expectations. But we waited. Since the time was with us the guide did not force us to move.  We spent time watching the antics of langur babies and the deer enjoying blissful cool environs of life-sustaining water in the stream.   

We at Courtyard House utilize full-time in the park during the safari. This is an unwritten rule. Hence we waited. I was expecting some thirsty tiger, leopard, or sloth bear to arrive and quench.  Well if wishes were tigers I would jump with joy!

Well, nothing happened for a long time till the silence was disrupted by two-alarm cries of the spotted deer. In my mind, hell broke loose. "Where exactly? I asked the guide. We drove right to the spot a few yards ahead to the spot from where the cries had erupted.  Frantically I began peering into the bush containing bamboo, shrubs interspersed with rock, and yes puddle of water. Still, there was no expectancy. This could be a call of the deer spooked.     

Well, it was not to be. I was searching for a predator in the shade with a puddle. Tiger! Tiger! I whispered with confidence which usually belies my circumspect nature.  Right in front of us, I could see the yellow and black stripes. Heart thumping with excitement, I pointed to the guest who was amazed as well as bewildered. Of Yes! The guide said.  

"It is a young tigress!"

When the animal raised its head to look at us we were all thrilled. It went back to quench in the brook in the cool shade. I could make out that the big cat was shy. It stared at us thrice but was so thirsty, it went back to gulp loads of the life-sustaining liquid. It was an enchanting moment as we witnessed through the thick canopy of bamboo, vines, shrubs, and trees, we were witnessing a spectacle most astounding.     

Our guest tried to photograph the moment but could achieve little in the shady brook. "Well this is how the tigers are always hidden and well camouflaged, and we were witnessing an activity in its natural surroundings."

"Not a cardboard cut out this," I appraised the guests in absolute wonder. The wild cat took a long time to quench and then it moved uphill and was seen no more.  A sighting had been made for visitors who had never seen a tiger in the wild.  

Image By Blissons - France 

Tiger Family on Wildlife Safari

Guests: Tirjmen & Miranda - Netherland 

At Courtyard House Kanha

Munna Tiger the beloved was our target for that eventful evening. I was bit apprehensive about his appearance as in this season water is well spread and so is the prey. Munna supervises and marks his whole territory in order to remain as the dominant male. Winters is also abuzz with mating big cats hence busy time for them. 

Nevertheless we took a chance. Me and my Dutch guests.  

"Digdola" I said as the driver turned into the act. Air was high with expectancy and we were fully alert. This hillside is part of Kisli Zone at Kanha National Park and home to very many tigers big and small. The picturesque range is preferred zone of those on tiger safari. The approach road is from Khatia Gate, it eventually connects with the road to Kanha Zone. The wildlife park has three main entrances other two are Sarhi and Mukki.

The unique feature of this terrain is presence of many water bodies, dense Sal, mixed forests, bamboo and grasslands. Most of the water bodies are on the right of the approach road while one large body is situated at the end of Digdola Hill with extensive meadows.

Kanha contains many table top mountains with plateaus having unique vegetation. The meandering rivulets are striking especially Sulkum at Sarhi Zone.  Termed as nalas in Hindi these are spots where tigers get localized during summers since water becomes a precious commodity in the scorching heat. 

As we proceeded towards the Sambar Nala we came across some jeeps waiting in expectation. Fortified by alarm cries we could make out the presence of a predator. 

"Tiger," the guide in jeep ahead of us whispered. We looked towards right only to see the dense bush. We moved back some distance and tried to have a better look. Meanwhile the jeeps heading for Kanha Zone also began arriving.    

"I can see the tiger" Miranda whispered and so could Tirjmen. Relieved, I told the driver to move forward some distance away from other jeeps. "We will wait," I said.    

There was a momentary cluster of jeeps but they soon departed after having a look at the big cat. Those with Kanha permit had to go and many in our zone did not wait, much satisfied after having seen the tiger in the bush. We could see the tiger from one point while others did from other."Two tigers," whispered the driver.   

The logjam soon cleared and only one jeep with a bunch of young photo enthusiasts waited along with us. 'We will wait right here at a good distance from the tiger," I said loud enough for the occupants in the other jeep to hear so they would follow suit. I put my hand on the driver's shoulder...stay put. My intention was not to hoard around the animal and push it out of sight. 

We waited with baited breathe in the deafening silence. Then there was a scuffle and growls. Mating? I was bubbling with excitement at the very thought.  The animals could go either way...slip down the hill or cross the jungle road. The guide informed us that there was water down the hill. "Good," I whispered if they have satiated their thirst they will either hang around or cross the road. 

We waited. 

Then. 

"Look there!" the lady pointed towards the bush. A large head emerged and in walked a male in order to cross the road. "Kankata," I hissed. This is a big male who commands territory next to that of Munna and sometimes dares to overlap.  "King of The Jungle" master of all he surveys...If this cliche let it be.     

I have learned one amazing fact that males rarely intercede into each other's domain. They get the message from scent marking on trees and other vegetation. On instance whence one male decides to take over anther's territory the scuffle begins with loud thundering roars and eye contact...glaring. If that does not settle the issue then a frenzied bout follows with minor injuries.  

If that is not enough the scuffle turns into a real fight. In case the domination is established the loser runs away else there takes place grievous injuries often resulting in death. This happens less since the domination is quiet often settled in less violent manner. This is nature's way of mitigating specie loss while deciding upon the strongest gene.    

Kankata with a dent in the ear emerged from the bush and stood on the road. The dominant males though aware of humans are rarely affected whilst on their task. The male then crossed over the road and began to drop foul smelling scat on the edge. Totally oblivious of us he cleared the neighborhood of the scat and entered the forest to lie down. 

We stayed at a safe distance...more was expected. 

"What next!,"I hissed. Ha!Ha!   

The next was emergence of an aggressive female grimacing fearfully at us, and quickly crossing over to enter the forest behind the male. The aggression among this species is often due to fear and uncertainty and whence in the company of female with cubs. Else they are extremely distrustful and frightened of humans...well who isn't?     

"So that's it," I said."The story ends here. I am sure you clicked some amazing shots." I said to my guests brimming with happiness. Earlier trips to Corbett and Ranthambhore were devoid of tiger sightings for them.

"There is another," the guide exclaimed. Well there was more in the store for us on that amazing evening. 

When in the dense jungle, swarming with predators around you, the nerves are taut with excitement and  the heart beats with fear...you can make out on the countenance of those not well versed with jungle life. 

I was expecting a courting ritual but this put that to rest. Are there two males seeking the female? Well all sorts of bizarre strike your brain as consternation develops.     

We peered into the bush at the far end and sure we could make out movement. 

Whence the tigers move there is no sound thanks to the thick padding on the feet...not even a crackle of dried leaves. The animal moves on the digits. Impression of upper pad/sole and digits is visible on ground and we describe them as pug marks. The fifth toe is way up...this is evolution and adaptation in a given habitat where speed and stealth is the order of the day. But sometimes you  can see turbulence in the grass and the vegetation, and thin sound emerges whence the body brushes against the twigs and leaves.    

For tracking tigers in the wild, a highly sensitive and trained sensory apparatus is required apart from experience. The animal belies simplicity in all terms and far out wits humans and its prey. Regularity in movement to some degree is seen near water holes in summers.     

Well patience pays and out came a young cub obviously a male. Family!. In the far out wilderness surprise belies belief. This is what was happening to us. Utter disbelief on my countenance I could see in the rear view mirror. 

The cub walked out nervously but steadily since we were at a good distance. Beauty is grace all entwined in natures magic. Pure Magic. The cub carried an expression of innocence much like our children do. It was perhaps seeing a new creature in a bewildering contraption that was not part of the ecosystem and his food chain. Fear engulfs logic and rather then waste time pondering over us he slithered into the dense canopy besides his parents.          

And Then. 

"Withhold your breathe," I said to the crowd... well on two jeeps. "There is another."

A young tiger of dimension little less the cub we saw emerged from the bush. Upon seeing the disproportionate size I could quickly infer that this one was a female. The cubs were about six to seven months old judging from the size. Fear and consternation was visible on her face.      

The young cub walked out but was still bit distant from the road. But it could not gather courage and went back into hiding. "This is a female and hence very cautious as per their basic nature. The cub though at good distance from us decided to go further ahead to cross over.     

There was a chatter of excitement as more jeeps arrived. They could see the female in the halo created by intertwining twigs and leaves. We could see both the tigress and male who was lazing upturned on the bed of grass. The tigress though on full alert was nevertheless at ease assured that her cubs were safe and at a distance from us.     

Stop Press. 

An Encounter With Tiger Family. 

The fearful tribe of killers, murderers in cold blood and perpetual enemies of humans (sic). The headlines said in the news papers.  Well nearly.

Such associations of majestic beast are encountered on notably very few occasions. This was a moment of discovery of natural history at work.  

You feel great and bloated over an encounter like this and even while describing. Why Not? 

Male Tiger

Tigress

Photo Credit Tirjmen & Miranda - Netherland 

Tigeress in the Ethereal Morning

I asked the guide to move through Salghat a low lying mountain with lot of Sal trees hence the name. It was a beautiful morning at Kanha National Park and as usual I was with my foreign guests from Courtyard House. A cool wind blew past us as me moved along the incline.

"Salghat?" 

"Yes', I said.

Driving very slowly we had  reached the cross road, I asked the driver to move towards Badrinath and head straight towards Sarvan Taal at Kanha Zone. We crossed over the striking grasslands of Kanha meadows and then reached a water body called Phuta Taal.  We continued.  

The transformation was electric, before we could see the tigress the drama unfolded. We found monkeys scurrying up the trees and then the hollow alarm cry of the spotted deer began. We knew there was a big cat on the way and rightly so. It emerged from the shadow of the trees neighboring the lake and headed straight towards us.   

The spectacular display of the swamp deer and its raucous cries was a rare event to witness as the tigress cut across the road past us. She continued to walk graceful emerging from thickets accompanied by dulcet roars. She came out in the open and then went into hiding behind the bushes. 

The event unfolded as she continued to move back past Phuta Taal at a graceful place totally ignorant of us and the frantic life all around her. The jeeps started arriving as we signaled them but there was no hurry, the big cat was aiming for a long walk and that it did. 

All the jeeps had rushed towards the Silyari Lake since Munna the male tiger was sighted a day before in the evening. I knew that there would be an undisturbed ground for the tigress to amble free...and so it happened. My guests from UK clicked merrily amazed at the turn of events.  Completely Zapped.

Tigress - Dinesh Makhija

Swamp Deer - Dinesh Makhija

         

Did Curiosity Kill The Big Cat?

Tiger Cub by Yves Blisson

Tiger Cub by Yves Blisson

Tiger Cub by Yves Blisson

Tiger Cub by Yves Blisson

With Yves & Maria - Esteemed Guests At Courtyard House Kanha

With her pugs huddled together, her body taught and tail in the air the tigress was in a position to spring forward and charge at us when I first saw her. The pug marks ended on the 4th mile at Kanha Zone. We have been following the pugs of a tigress with cubs at Kanha National Park. The cub had already been seen by a jeep on safari. 

"On 4th mile, a cub," the driver had informed us.             

As we traced the pugs, we soon came across smaller ones besides that of the tigress. "Mother with cubs I remarked." The jumble of pugs ended right there and the guide looked into bushes on left. Sitting there amongst the bamboo was a tigress, looking straight at us.

"On charge," I warned the driver as my French guests began to click excitedly. "Do not shake or move violently, I warned the guests who were  a bit  perturbed. 

We were quite alert, the dainty lass would have charged with a lightening speed. Blitzkrieg!             

It was a battle of wits, but the tigress gave in, frightened as big cats are of this ruthless two legged creature and his contraption. Afraid of her family being discovered she moved into hiding, making special efforts to tip toe. "Amazing," the guide remarked. I could see the big cat straining as she trudged into the safety of the bushes.  

"Not even a crackle of dead leaves," the guide remarked. The tigress soon vanished into the thick clumps and we moved a little ahead only to encounter the cub. This was perhaps his initiation of the surroundings with the bizarre creature facing him. 

It was a countenance filled with innocence, awe and wonder. Like all big cats he stood there confident and fearless. A picture of innocence I conjectured. Little did he knew that his future depends upon this strange two legged creature - uncaring, ruthless and full of greed. This was a strikingly beautiful encounter, perhaps one of the most awe inspiring moment of my life.      

The expert French photographer Yves was busy with his camera oblivious of all that was going in my mind. Time and again he turned around to shake hands with me, the guide and the driver."Merci". Short time after the rendezvous the cub vanished into the thickets.

"The tigress is watching us" I whispered to the guide and the driver. All the time she was watching us unseen while we were looking at the cub, I realized. She was again sitting in a position to strike at us. Although we were a good distance from her she could strike us any moment. This would have been mock charge I am sure. 

By now the photographer and his wife had realized the gravity of the situation. Just as he had stopped clicking the cub appeared besides the mother and then they both vanished.  

Better sense prevailed not amongst us but in the tigress. Feeling terribly insecure specially at her cub's proximity to us she was ready for a charge. But then sensing no real threat from us she gave peace a chance. No territorial claim as she quickly moved into the thickets with her cub in tow.      

This encounter was an eye opener. All the sagas of brave hunters killing the mighty beast the tiger as it charged at them were laid to dust. Certainly curiosity killed the big cat.

Tiger On The Road

"He has just crossed over at Karia Ghati and heading this way (Towards Silyari Jalasay)", the excited girl on the jeep said. We were right there at the Silyari Water Hole in Kanha National Park in MP. 

I could see the excitement on her face. In these tiger reserves, you can make out if tourists have seen the tiger or not. And you can also make out the grim countenance whence the tiger is not seen. This is applicable to one and all including me since my job is to fetch the tiger for my tourists.        

There is an excellent tiger tracking mechanism in place amongst the forest guides. 

Not to boast I do have a role to play at times in fetching the big cat out as we are close friends - rather age-old friends as I have been visiting the park since my seventies. Out of love and faith, they heed my request and make a special appearance (Only for me) Hic!.  

Anyway, we were waiting at the water hole for some time since tigers and other animals localize around the water during intense summer. The big male tiger we call Munna (Loved One) had probably gone deep into the forest to check on Lal Aankh another big male challenging Munna's territory.

We knew that Munna hangs around a hidden creek near the water body whence the sun goes up and hence we were waiting in expectation. As it transpired the tiger did not appear and we went toward Karai Ghati in order to check him out. There was no sign of him...

"Turn Around," I told the driver. So we returned to the water body to begin a long wait. In between, we saw many birds and a monitor lizard on a Saaz tree. When you are in a tiger land the world comes to stop and your eyes cease to focus on everything but yellow and black...the mystical stripes and ignore the surroundings... and your ears await the nerve-wracking roar and your heart thumps incessantly. But I always keep a lookout for numerous elusive & amazing creatures in this wonderland as well.   

At Courtyard House while leaving for the tiger safari our German Tourists had requested to see a tiger on the road. But so far there was no alarm cry that would have signaled the tiger's approach. 

We had to leave the park by 9.30 am since the guests had a long drive to Bandhavgarh. "Another half an hour", I requested Raimond. He agreed and we waited. The thrilling and nerve-racking alarm cry epitomizes the harbinger of death.

And that is what we heard, a staccato of sambar alarm cry from a distance followed by a barking deer terrifying bark. Our eyes were glued toward the direction of the calls. And then spotted deer near the water body and started crying in an extreme frenzy. Out of anticipation, the guests held their cameras ready. 

The tiger emerged from the far end of the water body. He completely ignored the deer, langur, wild boar, and sambar foraging in the neighboring grassland on shore. We could see him walking at a brisk pace nonchalantly towards the jungle road we were on. The tiger paid no heed to the men on the jeep, he completely trusted us knowing we were harmless. This makes one realize how cowardly the big cat hunters were. And how ruthless betrayal do the poachers indulge in?  

He was about twenty-five feet away from us whence he came upon the road and then crossed over. "He has gone into the creek and we won't be able to see him," I said. But that was unwarranted, my guests had a good load in their cameras for memory's sake. 

"Incredible" Raimond said. His wife shook her head gleefully in affirmation.

"Chalo", I said to the driver. 

Photo Teerath Singh

    .          

A tiger at ten for the General - Yes Again - He!He!

The entourage landed in the afternoon at Courtyard House full of expectancy. The General full of smiles appeared relaxed and was expecting much more. 

"A tiger would be fine" he said to me. "Else Kanha will be a wonderful experience anyway."  

The General and his family made us feel at ease. Smiling and beaming upon seeing the Courtyard House the family did not seemed tired from travel at all. 

The General's Entourage & Us

Time to Leave

Neelesh Agarwal Owner

Just two safaris is not enough to see the tiger sometimes and we missed Munna and Dig Dola Tigeress fair and square in the evening safari. We also missed a new male tiger by inches as he vanished into the forest before our arrival. We came to know this from the laborers and the jeeps waiting in expectation.

The next day we did not come close to any tiger on the way to Kanha Zone. We waited at Ghoda Chapar where I had seen Munna male tiger while guiding a Scottish Couple. "No sign of tiger," the guide remarked and we moved forward.  

The meadows at Kanha were empty and lifeless when we arrived through the forests. After lot of futile searching we decided to have breakfast along with Mr.O.P.Tiwari the Deputy FD of Kanha. While having breakfast I heard alarm calls from somewhere near the Minkur Nala crossroad. Earlier a jeep had encountered a tigress with a fawn which she had killed crossing over the road here.

As we left to continue our safari the General said,"A tiger at Ten!" I affirmed his belief and we proceeded to the spot where the tigress was seen. 

Look the tigress has not enough to eat and she will rise again," I said. Rightly so after few minutes of waiting a monkey alarm cry confirmed our belief, the tigress was just a short distance from us in the bush. We were waiting in expectation which proved rewarding. From our left at Kanha meadow a serious of loud alarm cries confirmed presence of the tiger.  

Medal for Courtyard House

Me & the medal

So we had two tigers to chance upon. "Keep an eye on the jeep on road at Minkur Nala," I told the guide. Well said I thought as the jeep started moving in the reverse. Move back the guide said to the driver but very slowly. As we were moving on the Minkur Nala road the guide spotted the tiger. It was the tigress's cub about fifteen months which moves along with its siblings on Kanha Meadow. The rest is history as the young tiger moved around without fear. The young tiger had emerged right at ten and I shook my head in disbelief. The General smiled at me. 

The tigress did not venture out and we left for our abode. It was a happy ending and post lunch we bid farewell to a smiling and beaming General and his entourage.      

The Dancing Queen of Kanha

Tigress Safari at Kanha National Park in India. 

We first noticed her pug marks on Link Number Nine mid way towards the Kanha Meadow. It was the guide who first heard the faint alarm cry of the langur near the Link Number Nine at Kanha National Park in India.  I was busy scoring the grassland in front of us. "Call from behind," the guide whispered.   "Move" I tell the driver. We move few paces to a spot at the junction from where we could see all the intersecting roads. 

Earlier, while passing through the meadow a small herd of doe and fawns had scurried across the road. There was trepidation sketched all over their countenance and their tails were erect . The driver paid no heed but the guide and me both old hands at Kanha did. We continued towards the Kanha Meadow and stopped to hear the alarm cries.  But still, there was suspicion lurking in my mind and I wanted to go back

"One alarm cry only" the other jeep driver told us. "Santosh move back!" I told our driver. "Yes Sir," the guide barked with excitement too. The driver was hesitant..."Move Back" I said in a commanding voice. We reached the spot and waited, many jeeps passed by us, one or two stopped and the rest did not believe us. 

The monkey warning call, our reverse movement, the emergence of the tiger from Link No.9 all happened with lightening speed.  "Tiger!" I shouted. In a split second Elizabeth turned around and clicked. I was stunned by her speed and alacrity. "Here have a look," she told me, "I got it."     

It was a dainty tigress but confusingly small. "Lovely lass" I whispered much to the chagrin of this beautiful lady. Unnh Uhoon! I could make out the meaning he! he!

We moved a short distance on road to Kanha Meadow and waited. By now some more jeeps had lined up in expectation.  We kept a significant gap in between from the jeep ahead. By chance the tigress emerged in front of our jeep and scurried across the road. She danced through the lazy bushes and vanished. Elizabeth from Sweden could take more good pictures by now.   

We than proceed to the meadow junction and waited. The tigress did not emerge. "By now it should be on that other part of the meadow" I whispered to the guide. The guide did not need any suggestion. The alarm cry confirmed my deduction and we had a good look at the tigress moving across the bush in the Kanha Meadow. Much to our surprise she was joined by one of her heavily striped cub. By this time a large number of jeeps had lined up and tourists were enjoying the sight of the beautiful tigress and her cub prancing across the grassland.  

Thermo-regulation that's what kept the big cats in the grassland. After a bitter chilly night, fog and mist the lovely Sun had emerged. We were all basking in the Sun's glory along with the big cats. This was a picturesque setting  and wonderful, ethereal, moment.

Tiger safaris can be thrilling but not always. This one was, and our guest at Courtyard House, Elizabeth had a whale of a time shooting the small family of tigers. But there was a hint of worry, and I wanted to make sure about the other cubs. They were not there, but I hope all have survived since tigress's give birth to a litter of three or four cubs. In subsequent trips we will discover. The best I could make out was the tigress was probably with her first litter and cub was about a year old.

This is all tiger tracking is about - split second decision, understanding of tiger movements and associates. A highly sensitive sensory apparatus. What not!He!He!

(Photographs awaited).

Tiger for the General

It was just a chance discussion with the beat guards that lead to this magnificent tiger in Kanha Forests. We were going downhill at Dig Dola Road whence we met the guards, the true sentinels of the Kingdom. They walk on foot for hours to keep the animals safe from marauding poachers.  They come across animals of all sorts but return home unscathed thanks to their knowledge of the wilderness. The animals do not harm anyone but more often act in self defense. 

"Tiger Roar Sir at 300 meters," they informed me. We rolled down further than 300 meters, and I could hear the thunderous roar of the majestic cat. Deep inside the forest, it was discouraging, anyway we moved on and reached the Saunf meadow. There were clear cut pug marks on the jungle road, but the roar had ceased. At the instance of  crossing over to the mountains there were no alarm calls. This was puzzling since there was a deer standing about 50 yards from the spot. Is this going to be another fake chase? The thought was disheartening.        

After a some wait I sent one of my jeeps ahead for the search. I was positive about the direction the tiger was heading...but aware of the jeeps it could have stayed in hiding. The pug marks looked fresh but the confusion was compounded by the silence of the deer.   

Jeep returned without sighting the tiger."Let's go for the tiger with the kill," the guide suggests. He is a highly experienced guide and I am tempted. After some time I say "wait!," The tiger on the kill is a three day old story so not much of meat. We are in three jeeps. I suggest the guide to go and check once more and we follow. And Bingo" tiger on the road.    

Just as I thought the tiger had descended from the mountain after the jeep had returned. All clear he must have thought. We met him across the bend about 100 yards from where the pug marks were. 

This is Munna, I thought. The tiger was trudging head on without even a glance at us."The tiger sir, I whispered to the general who had already seen the animal. "Big Cat," he said. "Yes Sir, a male tiger and of impressive dimensions."     

The cat continued to trudge head on and we followed. There was an assemblage of about seven jeeps now but the tiger was relaxed and did not bother to look back. "We will have a fair idea about its dimensions whence we look at it sideways." I said, "It appears to be small because of its height. Two and half feet maximum." 

It was an ethereal settings as the animal trudged along at a leisurely pace.  The accompanying alarm cries invaded the already charged electric atmosphere.  "This is fear emanating from the herbivores," I said, "this is the advance warning system among them." 

The big cat moved graciously into the dense thickets on the cross road. Then a wonderful thing happened. The tiger started to roar again. We were absolutely thrilled by this development. After two tiger safari we were finally able to see the tiger in the wild. The General and his family's wish was fulfilled, a tiger was finaly sighted in the enchanting forests of Kanha National Park.      

I was duly rewarded with a medal of appreciation.  Jai Hind!

Army Tents at Courtyard House

GOC Medal

Courtyard House near Kanha National Park

Tiger Photo By Uday Patel