These mysterious creatures have lately given us the impression that we have come to know everything about them. Do we?
There is an aura around them and a mystery that deepens more whence you get to know them on your search in the reserve. I have come across the tigress subject of this entry earlier along with her three siblings time and again during their growing up period at Kanha National Park in Central India or the State of Madhya Pradesh.
Unfortunately of the four siblings, two have been able to survive? Tigress cubs are often killed by rival males that have not sired them. Death can be a brutal mauling at the hand of the intruder. Hence until unless a surviving cub does not carve-outs in its own territory with dominance, its survival is under question. A relief discovery is that rival makes would more likely kill male cubs than females. But all younger cubs are killed if the rival wants to induce estrous in the mother.
Tiger Cub
So we set out with Aaron and his parents in search of tigers and other animals whence they arrived at Courtyard House as guests on safaris. We did come across a tiger hidden amongst the bush and we could see its back, head, limbs, and body all disjointed by the bush. It was on a kill and we could hear the breaking of the bones as well. Well, that's that!
Our search for tigers was disrupted by rains now and then and we had given up all hope of seeing another. We did manage to see lovely creatures of the reserve and photograph them much to our joy!
Aaron had a wish on his birthday to see a tiger on the road. Well, it rained and rained. Huddled under the tarpaulin on the gypsy we had given up all hope for sighting a big cat on the road.
"Tigers like us are irritated by droplets falling on them." Perhaps their metabolism slows down due to drop in temperature." This was my explanation to rather disappointed Aaron. I had seen a few big cats enjoying the rain during my work as a naturalist.
While returning back to the camp, I decided to take the route where we had found tiger droppings and heard calls some distance away. "There is a thin chance.......". "And the road is devoid of traffic that will increase our chance." A path less traversed.
It was drizzling whence we were surprised by a young tigress peering at us from the bush beside the road.
"Tiger Loooooooooooooook!"
The rain-drenched creature was simply staring at us for a long time awestruck perhaps. Ha!
It then came on the road at a distance crossed over and was gone.
"Aaron Your Birthday Wish, I announced gleefully!"
Tiger in Rain
Tigers are creatures of purpose and the rain does not hamper them. I made another discovery that day.
Little could I imagine whence I stopped the safari jeep at Nakti Ghati (a large water body) as to what would transpire. Wild safaris at Kanha National Park turn electric at any given moment but more so if you know the place well and the movement of the animals.
Albeit, I knew this was the area of a huge male, we actually stopped to get a glimpse of birds as well as admire the lovely and pristine landscape. Kanha landscape retains its pristine glory, frozen in time and space whence our prehistoric ancestors roamed in the wilderness. The tigers in this area are less seen...one reason being less vehicular movement. Hence it is at such places that surprise sightings take place.
Confined to our jeep, I was photographing the creatures of the wetland, and my guest was busy admiring the surroundings. Well, we were in no hurry as some jeeps zipped past us.
"Let them go," I blurted to the guide and the driver. "We are in no hurry!"
My movements during the safaris are sometimes heavily labored as I try to capture the essence of every nook and corner...in jungle parlay, it means a niche habitat.
Those who have never been to Kanha should visit the Nakti Ghati water body if they ever do. We were heading towards the Kanha Meadow in order to see the tigers which we had located in the morning. And so after the brief, we decided to move ahead. But as soon as the driver placed his fingers on the starter I stopped him.
"A sambar alarm cry," I whispered.
Now, this is a sure-shot sign of a tiger's presence for these large Asian deers' are rarely alarmed by small predators or spooked, and not often surprised by jeep movements.
"It could be a leopard," my driver whispered back. Well, I had seen tiger pug marks often here and I was expecting one to arrive to drink. Anyway, we decided to wait, the alarm cries continued intermittently stopping for a brief - now and then.
In order to track tigers one needs incredible patience and the time-tested quality of all experienced naturalists and forest guides. There is a deep urge to move ahead in order not to miss the imagined. Ha!
"Let's shift the jeep back to the bunch of trees behind us, I instructed the driver." He did.
In the case of tigresses most of them are very very shy and if you are not inconspicuous or dead silent they never emerge as has been my experience.
The alarm cries were confusing emerging from different directions but all close by. This made us think that a tigress was trying to move stealthily away from us after having seen the jeep. They usually do before we can spot them.
Well, we stayed put, and silent. Nothing happened, and the forest guide suggested that we move ahead without losing any more time. We waited for almost half an hour. But I had an inclination that whatever it was a tiger or a tigress it had moved behind us. So I instructed the driver to move behind us to about twenty yards and wait for at least five minutes. Well, we did not have to wait that long. For from behind the faraway bushes a huge male tiger emerged walked coolly towards us, crossed the road, and headed towards the water body. These creatures, the male tigers are bold and dominant, they rarely flinch a muscle in presence of man.
Can you imagine what transpires in your mind and body whence you sight a tiger like that? If you cannot then join me on a tiger safari and bet on your luck and my tracking. Both are essential. Anyway, my guests were busy with their mobile cameras, and I with my Sony Bridge Camera busy making a video.
We knew that the tiger (with a gash on the right brow) would move toward the water in this summer heat. And so we moved back to the wooden bridge at Nakti Ghati and found the tiger immersing back first into the water. It had managed to frighten the sambar and spotted deer but a group of bison (Gaur) persisted.
Normally the snorting bison (blowing wind from their nostrils) move away to avoid being close to this magnificent predator. But this did not happen.
An Amazing Spectacle! A Spirit of Coexistence!
There were two behavioral surprises here. One, the tiger nearly always moves away from the huge bison. In fact, most of the guides do not look for the big cat in the vicinity of the Gaur. The second surprise was that the bison kept a safe distance from the predator. This time they stayed close busy quenching their thirst.
None of this happened as we watched absolutely stunned. The distance between the tiger in water and the gaurs was perhaps not more than five yards. And both were quenching their thirst peacefully without any apprehension. I have captured this sighting in my videos and inserted them here.
In wild, energy is a crucial life support element to be preserved, the bisons having noticed the mood of the male tiger were at ease and did not scamper away. They could see him well and hence could scamper if any aggression did take place. That saves energy!
There was no show of aggression as both had one purpose quenching thirst in the heat of the summer. The bison, as usually all females were in a group, so less chance of being attacked. Anyway, the carnivore was not on a hunt.
The moral of the story lives in harmony with a spirit of coexistence in diversity.
We watched the spectacle in peace for a long time as the tiger often raised his huge head to look at us now and then. In absolute silence and privacy, we waited a long time enjoying the ethereal moment, and then turned back to the gate to make a timely exit.
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Uday Works as Sr.Naturalist at Kanha National Park in India
He loves to blog on Indian Wildlife and Tiger Conservation
Contact: pateluday90@hotmail.com
Mob:9755089323
The move belied all logic. The stream was full of deer and langur. There was no sign of the magnificent tiger all was magical, serene, and fairytale-like. After taking the morning round of safari at Sarhi Zone of Kanha National Park we were returned disappointed that the big cat had eluded us.
I looked at my watch there was more than an hour to go. Nobody was expecting a tiger now since the sun had risen the animal does not like heat as we all know. It arrived in India from somewhere in Siberia or China about ten thousand years ago. The animal could not reach Sri Lanka as the Island had distanced itself from the mainland and was too far for the tiger to swim.
We were returning via Karai Ghati Road famous haunt of magnificent male tigers, Munna, Dabang, Dhamangaon male, Saunder male, and new arrivals. The Budbudi female has been irrevocably etched in our minds by its presence at Budbudi Nala or the stream where we had come to a halt.
We stood there admiring our surroundings, the enchanting stream full of life and the beautiful birds hidden in the shadowy crevices of dense leaves and twigs. That was all.
Some jeeps arrived and looked at us with question marks. They did not bother to stop. Why should they with a bunch of deer and troops of langur all around the tranquil stream?
At Kanha, the mornings are chilly even in summer but the heat of the noon makes all run to the cozy comfort of climate-controlled environs of the wildlife resorts.
There was an air of complete despondency with no expectations. But we waited. Since the time was with us the guide did not force us to move. We spent time watching the antics of langur babies and the deer enjoying blissful cool environs of life-sustaining water in the stream.
We at Courtyard House utilize full-time in the park during the safari. This is an unwritten rule. Hence we waited. I was expecting some thirsty tiger, leopard, or sloth bear to arrive and quench. Well if wishes were tigers I would jump with joy!
Well, nothing happened for a long time till the silence was disrupted by two-alarm cries of the spotted deer. In my mind, hell broke loose. "Where exactly? I asked the guide. We drove right to the spot a few yards ahead to the spot from where the cries had erupted. Frantically I began peering into the bush containing bamboo, shrubs interspersed with rock, and yes puddle of water. Still, there was no expectancy. This could be a call of the deer spooked.
Well, it was not to be. I was searching for a predator in the shade with a puddle. Tiger! Tiger! I whispered with confidence which usually belies my circumspect nature. Right in front of us, I could see the yellow and black stripes. Heart thumping with excitement, I pointed to the guest who was amazed as well as bewildered. Of Yes! The guide said.
"It is a young tigress!"
When the animal raised its head to look at us we were all thrilled. It went back to quench in the brook in the cool shade. I could make out that the big cat was shy. It stared at us thrice but was so thirsty, it went back to gulp loads of the life-sustaining liquid. It was an enchanting moment as we witnessed through the thick canopy of bamboo, vines, shrubs, and trees, we were witnessing a spectacle most astounding.
Our guest tried to photograph the moment but could achieve little in the shady brook. "Well this is how the tigers are always hidden and well camouflaged, and we were witnessing an activity in its natural surroundings."
"Not a cardboard cut out this," I appraised the guests in absolute wonder. The wild cat took a long time to quench and then it moved uphill and was seen no more. A sighting had been made for visitors who had never seen a tiger in the wild.
"He has just crossed over at Karia Ghati and heading this way (Towards Silyari Jalasay)", the excited girl on the jeep said. We were right there at the Silyari Water Hole in Kanha National Park in MP.
I could see the excitement on her face. In these tiger reserves, you can make out if tourists have seen the tiger or not. And you can also make out the grim countenance whence the tiger is not seen. This is applicable to one and all including me since my job is to fetch the tiger for my tourists.
There is an excellent tiger tracking mechanism in place amongst the forest guides.
Not to boast I do have a role to play at times in fetching the big cat out as we are close friends - rather age-old friends as I have been visiting the park since my seventies. Out of love and faith, they heed my request and make a special appearance (Only for me) Hic!.
Anyway, we were waiting at the water hole for some time since tigers and other animals localize around the water during intense summer. The big male tiger we call Munna (Loved One) had probably gone deep into the forest to check on Lal Aankh another big male challenging Munna's territory.
We knew that Munna hangs around a hidden creek near the water body whence the sun goes up and hence we were waiting in expectation. As it transpired the tiger did not appear and we went toward Karai Ghati in order to check him out. There was no sign of him...
"Turn Around," I told the driver. So we returned to the water body to begin a long wait. In between, we saw many birds and a monitor lizard on a Saaz tree. When you are in a tiger land the world comes to stop and your eyes cease to focus on everything but yellow and black...the mystical stripes and ignore the surroundings... and your ears await the nerve-wracking roar and your heart thumps incessantly. But I always keep a lookout for numerous elusive & amazing creatures in this wonderland as well.
At Courtyard House while leaving for the tiger safari our German Tourists had requested to see a tiger on the road. But so far there was no alarm cry that would have signaled the tiger's approach.
We had to leave the park by 9.30 am since the guests had a long drive to Bandhavgarh. "Another half an hour", I requested Raimond. He agreed and we waited. The thrilling and nerve-racking alarm cry epitomizes the harbinger of death.
And that is what we heard, a staccato of sambar alarm cry from a distance followed by a barking deer terrifying bark. Our eyes were glued toward the direction of the calls. And then spotted deer near the water body and started crying in an extreme frenzy. Out of anticipation, the guests held their cameras ready.
The tiger emerged from the far end of the water body. He completely ignored the deer, langur, wild boar, and sambar foraging in the neighboring grassland on shore. We could see him walking at a brisk pace nonchalantly towards the jungle road we were on. The tiger paid no heed to the men on the jeep, he completely trusted us knowing we were harmless. This makes one realize how cowardly the big cat hunters were. And how ruthless betrayal do the poachers indulge in?
He was about twenty-five feet away from us whence he came upon the road and then crossed over. "He has gone into the creek and we won't be able to see him," I said. But that was unwarranted, my guests had a good load in their cameras for memory's sake.
"Incredible" Raimond said. His wife shook her head gleefully in affirmation.
It was 3 years back and I was leading a German bird watching group at Corbett. Birding is very time consuming and requires lot of concentration. The group wanted both birding as well as tiger sighting. The latter becomes difficult when you are in quest for birds. But nevertheless I was keeping an eye in the avian species as well as the tigers.
It was early April but heat had picked up we were on five jeeps all scattered but on the same route. Somewhere around the Bank of Ranganga I heard one sambar alarm cry which was never repeated. Much to the chagrin of the jeep driver I asked him to stop. Within seconds the alarm cries were repeated on the other side of the river. These were spotted deer who were moving into the forest at frantic pace.
This was enough to tell you that there is a predator in the vicinity. "Quite close by," I told my bewildered guests. This was the first experience for them of sounds of the jungle in India. We began to wait for the predator to emerge. Lot of time passes...the impatient driver and the guest now irate at losing precious birding time look at me with a bit of irritation. Lot more time had passed and nothing happened.
I had an inclination that the predator had heard the jeep sound and was hiding in the bush somewhere near. Their was a pin drop silence all the way now but the tiger as I presumed it to be was coolly lying down at peace with itself.
Other jeeps with the rest of my guests in total fifteen had reached us by now and I told the jeep drivers to wait in total silence. I knew I was risking my job if the tiger did not emerge there would be a complaint. But I paid no heed to the drivers who were urging me to move on.
As luck would have it a troop of macaque came across to my left. The macaques have a peculiar habit of going right near the predator and irritating it with raucous alarm cries. Hari Lamba the local birding guide on other jeep also knew this. I asked my guests to watch the movement of the leader and eagerly they did. The leader went right up to the spot where the big cat was hiding. He began to cry frantically from the tree nearby, and within few moments a huge male emerged. I had asked my guests to keep the camera ready but none could photograph in that exciting moment. We could see the tiger moving besides us about 30 yards and vanish into the deep confines on the bushes on the bank.
That was it I had tracked the tiger! The cheers that followed were heartening. But not for some guides and jeep drivers, the lot here have a peculiar habit of expressing their "no ledge" and very rudely at times. I have not experienced anything like this elsewhere. The staff respects the age and experience of old timers, not here.
At the forests near the Dhikala accommodation we had heard alarm cries the evening before but could not locate the tiger hidden well inside. The jungles of India are full of surprises. While returning to the rest house through the same road, we were still in trance with what had happened. Then what happens, the yesterdays tiger emerges from that very spot, crosses the road approaches us and vanishes into the vegetation across. This time my guests managed to photograph a tiger without head (behind a tree trunk at that moment) and other pic of its bum about 5/6 feet away from us. What a way to store eternal memories!
Hey! I had no role play here except taking a weak chance, nevertheless it all boiled down to me. I could not understand German but the smiles told me a lot.
Tracking tigers in the wild is most exciting and thrilling adventure but only for those who can take disappointment at times in a stride. It is an exhaustive exercise though sometimes the luck favors early.
Like all primary predators tigers leave telltale signs that may lead to the animal. The primary source is the alarm cries of the herbivores and birds who on sighting or scenting the tiger give a typical call. One should be able to make out the vocalization of the tiger. Other indications are the pug marks, excreta and territorial markings.
One needs trained eyes to see tiger which is always in excellent camouflage and of course sensitive ears to hear the alarm cries and tiger calls. Intuition sometimes works but once in blue moon. The reaction and behavioral pattern of the animals too indicates the presence of the Bengal tigers in the forests and grassland ecosystems.
In tiger reserves tracking tigers on the foot is not allowed one must track them while on a jeep which limits accessibility and makes the task more difficult. One must also understand bit of tiger biology and have complete understanding of the ecosystem as whole.
Understanding tiger movements and its habitual routine is also important in fact very important. Knowing the terrain is important as well. This is an exciting profession which requires years of experience. Though I am a freelancer wildlife/content writer of shorts and as an amateur naturalist I get enough opportunity to get the tigers and sometimes handsome tips....
