Tiger at Mandova
Uh! Oh! Uh! O!
Uh!Oh!Uh!O!
The singsong was like a magical utterance! We had tracked this big cat when an alarmed rhesus macaque cried out loud and was frequent.
I could see clearly the blotch of white against the cryptic green of disheveled grass.
"The tiger is looking straight at us," Neelesh Bhai whispered barely able to conceal his excitement.
We were inside Sanjay National Park and tiger reserve in the Seedhi District of Madhya Pradesh. This was an exploratory visit for Indiafootprints Tours and to establish a new property like Courtyard House Kanha.
Our first safari was in the company of Seedhi Naturalist Subash Singh and HomebyBanas owner Ajeet Mishra. The energetic young lads did not falter in introducing the tiger reserve to us as we started the Home Stay. This tiger called T5 was a middle-aged male in his prime and quite handsome. He was wary of us and thus got up walked over a ridge and then came down to rest a little distance away. This was at Mandova at the Dubri Zone.
Watch Tower |
Banas Forest River
The long river stretch between tropical forests bordered by the sandy beach had us gasping for breath literarily speaking. Like a necklace, it inundates the reserve from all sides and connects perennial streams within the reserve creating an invaluable life support system.
Banas River along with Son River forms a large catchment in this region and nurtures tropical moist deciduous forests which stretch through to Chhattisgarh State bordering East. The waterway is clean, unpolluted by industrial effluents, and pristine. Gharial, the endangered crocodile species is found in Son River at a distance of hundred kilometers.
Banas River SDTR |
The river intersects the National Park creating an enigmatic splendor and panoramic excellence that makes safaris in the park a captivating experience. The place is a promising destination connected by good roads and major towns. It is ideal for animal and bird-watching holidays in Central India.
SDTR ForestScape |
I stood on the bridge to capture images of this panoramic spread. Tiger reserve engulfing pristine ecosystems always creates a mesmerizing experience and the tigers within add to it all to make your journey memorable. In some places, ancient ideological structures narrate India's extensive Hindu past and add an esoteric charm to the destinations. The tribal excelled in creating Hindu temples and idols out of rocky outcrops and igneous slabs....we will search for them on our next visit.
Sanjay Dubri Tiger Reserve - A Paradise Found
Forest & Tiger
A long stretch of forest connected with Bandhavgarh National Park and Guru Ghasidas Wildlife Sanctuary in the neighboring state of Chattisgarh Sanjay Dubri is a paradise found. Tigers are flourishing here but a big gap exists. There are estimated to be around twenty-plus big cats here, and this is anybody's guess. Our safari in the Dubri Zone resulted in a tiger sighting on the first visit and only one species of deer namely Chital, wild boar, rhesus macaque, Hanuman langur, and Nilgai Antelope. Tiger sighting seems to be good here with a ratio of one sighting in four safaris. The sloth bear is frequently seen here.
Gate SDTR |
The jungle roads were full of pug marks and we heard big cats in one place. There are supposed to be three breeding females one in Dubri Zone. Females from ensuing litter are about little over two years and maybe more, and reaching breeding age. They have not seen cubs yet.
The habitat in the core is a complete ecosystem with an amazing network of perennial streams as per the naturalist and homestay owner. We came across many water bodies and they looked promising enough to face the extreme heat of summer.
The core stretches for over eight hundred square kilometers and is riddled with human intrusions. Though admirable work is being done at Sanjay Dubri the intractable local lords are stemming the process.
For those who will put a question mark here, let me tell you that tigers and other life form need inviolate areas to survive. Human onslaught on our forest ecosystems does not take long to fathom after one visit to most of our tiger reserves.
This idea of man animal coexistence is chimerical and shaped mostly by human greed leaving no space for precious wilderness. If we do not relent our nextgen will pay the price of living in isolation.
Tiger is gaining a foothold again in India and the inviolate protected areas are indispensable for its survival.
Forest in Core |
Limited Entry
Unfortunately, the human hold is visible everywhere and with only nine vehicles allowed in one ride, there seems to be no scope for future ecotourism ventures here. If you visit Kanha and Bandhavgarh you will see how robust the local economy is with jobs for local communities and small business opportunities and empowerment of the population as a whole.
Long hidden from the public gaze, an open approach here will be helpful in addressing our unemployment problem. An ecotourism-friendly policy that keeps the sanctity of this ecosystem in mind and takes vulnerable species' survival into account need not be constricting depriving people of valuable inheritance benefits. Our parks depend much upon the humanity around for preservation, and the people can be the best guardians if they see a future as stakeholders here.
History - White Tiger - Mohun
The white tiger was found here along with normal-colored cubs within the confines of Sanjay National Park. This was brought to the notice of then Maharajah of Rewa HH Martand Singhji a hunter-turned-conservationist, he immediately took the orphaned cubs in his care at Govindgarh Fort. The white tiger cub survived and was named Mohun (a captivating one in Hindi). Mohun can be seen in the preserved form at Maharani Kothi at Tala in Bandhavgarh Tiger Reserve. All white tigers survive in captivity all over the World and carry the genes of Mohun.. for only one white tiger carrying this recessive gene was ever found in the wild...
Seedhi was in the jurisdiction of Maharajahs of Rewa and was famed for its big cats. The Maharajahs have built a Kothi here which has been taken over by the Government. Remains of hides are found scattered in the forests. HH Martand Singhji was very popular among his subjects and in later life, he focused on getting rid of troublesome big cats.
Subash Singh Naturalist
Enthusiasm bubbles over all his countenance and the rotund gait are hardly suggestive of a man of the wilderness look. But there he is and conducts his discourses on nature very well. He was enthusiastic about meeting us and accompanied us on the wildlife safari at Sanjay Tiger Reserve. He is well-versed in ornithology and loves his job. He has penned a book on the reserve and it is a valuable resource.
Ajit Mishra - Owner HomebyBanas
The name HomebyBanas is a suggestion by Neelesh Bhai the real name is Shri Sai Resort. We suggested he keep the Lord in his heart and soul and accord a more ecotourism-friendly name.
The homestay location cannot be better for a wilderness resort. It is one of the best situations for a wildlife resort I have ever come across. Right next to an enviable stretch of Banas River you can take a nature walk on the beach in the company of big cats. The spot is ideal for high tea and picnic or just to take a leisurely walk. Serenity and peace rule here.
The three-room structure is neat, spacious, and well-appointed with climate control (AC) and an attached bathroom. A garden in the front, forest onside, what more does a person on safari holiday can expect. The accommodation serves local varieties of cuisine often cooked on firewood.
Yes, the place is homely pleasing, affordable, and worth a stay if you are happy with simple surroundings and no star appeal. Ajeet Mishra the owner is a wildlife enthusiast and loves his business. We received much cooperation from him. He lives in Seedhi Town an hour's drive away.
How to Reach?
Sanjay Tiger Reserve is well connected with Benaras and Allahabad two major UP towns with air connectivity. The distance is approximately 250 km by road. The reserve is an hour's drive from Bandhavgarh Tiger Reserve in Umaria District.
The route we followed: Jabalpur Airport to Kundum - Shahpura - Umaria Town - Tala - Beohari - STR. The drive took us four hours non-stop through a smooth road all along.
Our Companions
Contact Ajeet Mishra FB - https://www.facebook.com/ajeet.mishra.9250
Home Stay |
Subash Singh Naturalist - FB - https://www.facebook.com/subhash.singh.925602
Visit Courtesy - Mr. Neelesh Agrawal
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Uday is a blogger and offers Seo + Content For Digital Marketing Services.
He teaches digital marketing (SEO) in Jabalpur.
He freelances as a naturalist/birder at Kanha National Park. He loves to write about travel.
He can be contacted at:
pateluday90@hotmail.com
09755089323
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