Tiger Safari on a budget

No Cheap Options from 20 Dec to 7th January, Diwali Festival and Holi festival ...avoid Saturdays and Sundays other holidays.   

The recent price hike in tiger tourism in Indian tiger reserves in  MP has a negative impact on economy that sustains many homes. A world reeling under an economic stress finds it difficult to spend so much on wildlife safaris. Nevertheless lot many people on Earth wish to see this wonder creature though they can only travel on a budget. This does not apply only to middle class Indians but to foreigners as well.   

The price hike may be a management issue aimed at regulating tourism in the Central Indian Parks. Hence those wishing to travel for tiger safaris and birding need to economize everywhere they can. The tour begins at Delhi for most.

Depending upon your flight you can avoid a stay at the Capital. There are direct flights for Jabalpur if time allows get on board straight. Booking flights in advance cuts the cost, last minute flights are costly. Another option is overnight train which are about 4 or 5. You should have booked your rail ticket in advance the cheaper options are 3 tier sleeper or 3 AC bit higher priced.  These are overnight options but will certainly save a stay in the hotel in New Delhi.    

Whence you reach Jabalpur you have an option to get bus for Kanha National Park via Mandla but this is in the early morning times. Taxi ride is costly hence if you have to stay overnight than there are many economy hotels in Jabalpur at Russel Chowk. Be cautious that you do not land in unsafe hotel. Some of the better hotels are Arihant Palace, Vardhman Hotel, Hotel Shikhar Palace which charge reasonably and you can bargain. 

There is a direct bus for Kanha from the bus station known as motor stand very close to Russel Chowk. You can walk down there about 10 minutes. You should reach around 5.45 am.I think there are two buses going to Kanha hence get the first worm. The ride is about 156 km to Mocha Village if you are putting up there or bit further to Khatia Gate.You have to travel to Khatia Gate..Kanha Kisli Side and not to the Mukki Gate (towards Raipur) which does not have budget options. Keep this in mind. Always ask for Khatia Gate at Kanha near Mochha Village.     

Stay: Bargain at hotels in Kanha ....motel chandan at Khatia Gate, and other lodges on main road to Khatia Gate they are safer.  Food is also cheap in these places else there are many road side dhabas for food. Avoid Non Veg which is costlier than vegetarian food. Always go for deep fried hot food in road side joints else eat boiled eggs bread and butter if you are extra sensitive to Indian Pathogens. See things cook right in your presence the hotter the better. The oil and spices your stomach will adjust to. Once you get hooked to Indian curry & roti there is none other food. Anyway carry antibiotics for your stomach as many do. Carry mineral water...branded one use that throughout your journey.

Remember India is a vast country so you cannot expect any homogeneity in services and offerings. There are World class restaurants and accommodations in the country but on budget tour forget it. Most of the budget restaurants are clean and neat. Avoid roadside joints if you come across some good eateries.      

There is a dormitory at Kisli in Kanha National Park operated by MP Tourism you should book in advance along with food it is a real cheap option. You could share the jeep safari if other inbound tourists are staying there. Since the dormitory is in the core area your movements will be restricted by Gate timings. Khatia Gate has a small rustic bazaar but not quaint at all...he!he!. This is where people begin there safari on Kanha side, the jeeps are available here. But if you connect in advance with your accommodation you might get a share ride and save money.     

Try to share jeep safaris with other foreigners this brings the cost down a lot. There is seperate pricing for Indian and inbound travelers which include NRI foriegn passport holders.  Visit any zone that is available since Kanha Zone is a premium zone and costs more. You can see as good wildlife any where. the same bus will fetch you back it leaves around one am from Khatia or Mocha Village. Gate Entry has to be booked in advance since the vehicle entries are limited.  

Do not buy beverages at your resort in the tiger reserves they are very costly. The local bazzar is the best bet, but liquor will cost more anyway...wine is not available....do all these purchasing at Jabalpur or other major town.    

From Jabalpur you can buy a luxury bus ticket to Khwasa township ahead of Seoni town, the entry point to Pench National Park. Within a distance of ten km there are many resorts you can stay at Mowglis Den Resort which has a dormitory that could cost less. Except in the rush season you can bargain with the resorts for accommodations.

Pench is closer from Nagpur connected by luxury bus. In non holiday period the bus will not cost you the nose. There is a Jabalpur Nagpur railway connection as well.  

For Bandhavgarh there is a direct train Utkal Express from New Delhi leaving 3 pm apporx, it reaches Umaria Station early in the morning from here you have to walk down to the bus stand and catch a bus for Tala which is about 32 km. Most of the accommodations are in and near Tala and some are budget class. 

From Jabalpur you can travel by rail/bus to Katni and catch a bus for Umaria and so on. The best option is the Utkal Express which departs for The Capital around 9 pm approx. Please confirm all rail timings.

There is a long option for Khajuraho from here about 6/7 hours drive, from the temple town Panna National Park is about 45 km and so is Ken Gharial Sanctuary.  

The three tiger reserves are recommended for tiger safari on budget. If you can gather some more people from your country the sharing will certianly bring the individual cost down.

The views above are my own, please use your own discretion during the safari tours. 

Bandhavgarh - More of it

After the notification of Bandhavgarh as Tiger Reserve the area was increased to more than 100 hundred sq km. This constitutes both the core zone as well as the periphery.  The neighboring Panpatha Wildlife Sanctuary was also brought under the aegis of BTR.

The enlarged area is meant to accord greater protection to Bengal tigers and co-inhabitants as well as the ecosystem. A number settlements exist in the tiger preserve. Panpatha has hitherto become and entrance especially for tourism- Pan Patha Zone. This patch of forest was till now unexplored

Another interesting part of BTR is Marzad Garh where few tourist visit. The bamboo bridge on River Umrar is a sight to behold...the jungle road leads to a watch tower at the top of the mountain. The vantage point offers a breathtaking panoramic view of Bandhavgarh terrain. Marzad Garh is a less visited place and worth a visit.    

Tigers and leopards are reported in these forest which is home to impressive wildlife and bird life. The main road after leaving the forests leads to Barhi Highway from where one can reach to Muchmucha via Kuan Village. One has to take a turn towards Kuan Village about 12 km From Khitauli on Barhi Road. 

Muchmucha is a small village on the periphery of the reserve. It is an agricultural settlement of tribal and mixed communities. The surrounding forests, wetlands and open fields constitute an ideal birding destination. The tigers and leopards often kill livestock here and the bold ones lift them right out of the cowshed. The incidence happened whence I was on a birding trip here. I stayed in Muchmucha Kothi a quaint accommodation which was once a hunting lodge during the British Raj. The property belongs to Mr. Avinash Pathak -conservationist,  landlord and hotelier. He also runs a package tour company in MP.

The Kothi is enchanting with simple services and few modern amenities. It is spacious, well furnished with old time paraphernalia and exudes class. Many industrialists and businessmen have visited the place on holidays. I had good birding time here, and saw much wildlife though missed the tigers due to preoccupation with the avian species.

Muchmucha is about 30 km from Tala but offers peace and serenity away from the mad tiger rush. It is more for the niche traveler interested in birding and safaris in unexplored quarters. It is also for those in quest of peaceful hang about in a village living in old times. A ride to Tala Gate from here offers exciting wildlife watching at many places with little disturbance. A part of the drive is through villages while most of it is through the buffer zone.  

The Kothi is a unique experience and unlike the luxury hotels in Bandhavgarh the lodge is not crowded. The accommodation is more of a farm resort in picturesque surroundings. In winters as you sit under the camp fire the starry night sky enlivens your spirit and augurs hope. The food is classic with lot of local touch, enhanced by the enchanting little dining room with mahogany table and chairs. Candles flicker wild in expectation as you dine in cozy ambiance created by the candlelight.     

The Khitauli Zone offers the best in wildlife safaris and birding. Apart from Marzad Garh other interesting places are: Chakri Dongri, Kumbhi Kacchhar, Garhpuri Dam, Tedka Munara and Nigahi Nala. The extensive forest cover, perennial streams and grasslands offer ideal habitat to the herbivores, tigers and leopards. Nilgai and Sloth bear are often seen in this zone in BTR. 

Eco Resorts at Kanha

Tiger tourism is one of the main draw of the visitors from foreign countries and the locals. Tiger reserves like Kanha, Bandhavgarh and Pench in Madhya Pradesh are very popular for tiger safaris. Corbett National Park and Ranthambhore are also very popular for tiger tourism in India. 

In spite of large number of National Parks/Tiger Reserves greater tourism is limited to the above forests. The reason is high density of tigers and hence easy visibility. Though tigers are present in good numbers elsewhere especially in South India the visibility is lacking due to nature of the habitat. Periyar and Wynaad are examples.

To cater to ever increasing numbers of tourists on tiger safaris the accommodation has been steadily increasing. Initially the rest houses belonging to forest and other government departments were the only places one could stay. In recent times the influx of hotels, jungle camps and resorts has been catering to the tourists.

The concept of holiday accommodation in Indian jungle is steadily changing. The tourists prefer fully equipped wildlife resorts for a stay. These resorts are now being built on the principle of sustainable eco friendly tourism. The ambiances though highly modern is built on the exteriors were eco friendly sustainable resources have been used.      

Most of the eco resorts are built using the same technology as the ethnic dwellings of the tribal villages. Kanha Tiger Preserve leads in this aspect. The new concept has been encouraged by responsible eco friendly tourism which is the need of the hour. Even the energy is obtained from solar panels as much as possible. Though for temperature control electricity is a must. But much of the power is generated using solar panels.  

The ethnic construction is environmentally well heeled and cottages and rooms maintain an amiable temperature reducing the need for temperature control. As in ethnic dwellings the walls are used using locally available mud in conjunction with natural materials used by the tribal. The construction is safe, stable and rock solid as has been proved through centuries.    

The appearance of the resorts is that of beautifully sculptured dwellings in harmony with the surroundings. All this, without sacrificing modern comforts and utilities that the guests look for in luxury accommodations. The eco resorts are well equipped with wildlife interpretation center, trained naturalists, and professional managers and wait staff. The resorts offer in house activities relating to eco tourism iike tribal dance and music - this way they provide lively hood to the locals.   

In time to come eco friendly resorts at Kanha will be the preferred accommodation.  The tourists on wildlife safari do not wish for city type hotels anymore in wild habitats. With increasing tourism awareness of our wild heritage is growing among the tourists. They are more and more becoming conscious of responsible tourism practices.

Kanha and other tiger reserves our life sustaining eco systems. The support vast diversity of life forms with which our lives are linked. Conducting proper tourism will help save these vital ecosystems, and sustain lives of the local communities as well. The tribal are the real sentinels who conserve our green belts.