Kanha National Park - Swamp Deer

Kanha National Park known as the land of the tiger is home to many animals besides the big cats. One of the most charismatic animals is the Hard Ground Swamp Deer or the Barasingha. This is a gregarious species of Red Deer and was once found in large herds in and around the Kanha National Park. 

The swamp deer have a proclivity towards swampy grasslands but in the case of Kanha, there is a scarcity of such habitat. Hence the deer has become adapted to the hard ground through the evolution of a morphological change. Unlike other swamp deer species of India, the Cervus Duavcelli Branderi does not have splayed hoofs. The main food is some species of grasses that abound in Kanha Meadows.  

The Branderi Barasingha was brought back from extinction in the sixties. A significant contribution of Dr.Schaller et. el. was active in saving this species. From about sixty-six heads the population is now over three hundred fifty. A very large enclosure was established for additional protection of the deer. In absence of predation, the survival rate of the fawns increased rapidly hence the result. 

The swamp deer in Kanha breed in the Sonf Meadow and some other grasslands. The mating period is in peak winters. Normally one fawn is born after a gestation period of six months. The deer is sensitive to human incursions and hence needs complete isolation. 

These animals avoid human settlements and are rarely found near them. The nearest relative is the sambar deer which is ubiquitous. It can also be seen near the hotels in Kanha in the adjoining forests.  To see the deer one should visit Kanha National Park anytime. Large herds congregate in summers in meadows with abundant water. Kanha Meadow is one of the finest places to see the Hard Ground Swamp Deer. 

       

The Gun Cult & The Lion

Obviously the experts have been proved wrong. After years of preparation, expenditure of vast sums of money the guns comes in the way. According to the times of India news dated April 29/4/2013. Sheopur District in which the park is located is having 4800 guns while Gir Surrpundings has 2600 guns. 

What is paradoxical is that the guns at both the places can wipe out the lion population in days. Then why single out Kuno Palpur?  

The name of the game is pride. Albeit one pride to Kuno will not harm Gujarat's interest at all. It that is the apprehension than what is this ho ha about Gujarat's might - economic and in all sphere. Is there and element of doubt?

I am a staunch admirer of Narendra Modi governance...but this parochialism baffles me. It is time the able contender for PM post unshackles parochialism and adopts a Nationalistic Fervor. The gun cult is a universal problem in India...well almost. Poachers are everywhere, it is the management that has to be trusted. MP's  record in tiger conservation has steadily improved and Kanha, Bandhavgarh and Pench are a testimony. 

Lions have always been present in this area the last record is Sagar in 1852. the lions where wiped out by shikaris and habitat take over. The Asian Lions prefer open savannas, deciduous forests and scrub country. The intense clash with tigers is not possible as the tiger prefer dense forests with small grasslands, wetlands and bush as associates. 

The recent re-introduction of tigers in Panna has proven to be a success, and with additional protection they will survive for posterity.

So what's the problem with Kuno?  

Well IUCN Guidelines. At this juncture the issue is meaning less, let the Gujarat Government express affirmative and then proceed with interpretation of guidelines. If the experts say yes then relocate the lions here and save the species.     

Wildlife Images by Tirath Singh

Leopard at Bandhavgarh

Jackal Pair

Male Tiger

Tadoba Cubs

Tiger Cubs

Tiger in Grassland

Wild Dog

Muchmucha Tiger is Dead

As the story unfolds the Muchmucha (Bandhavgarh) male tiger died due to electrocution in one of the fields in the village. Muchmucha is on the Tala Road about fifteen km from Barhi. This is the bitter tale of tiger's survival in India. The electric wire trap was laid by some notorious poachers obviously for small game.  

It is assumed that the tiger died on 25th February 2013 some times in the night while crossing over. The male tiger was about five years old and in a state of good health. I hope the tiger had mated with the female it encountered in my last trip. The tiger was in its prime and was in a position to sire many cubs but the tragedy has put stop to that.     

The tiger population in the outskirts of Bandhavgarh is thin and it will be some time before another male takes over the breeding process. The electrocution menace is wide spread in Central Indian Tiger Reserve. This is due to 11 KVA line passing through many reserves. 

It is problems like these which have to taken care of but unfortunately myopia rules over our thinkers. Precious time is wasted on issues like tourism which are already under an experienced control mechanism.  Not one voice is raised regarding issues that are really decimating the left over big cat populations in the country.

Bandhavgarh - Tiger in The BackYard

Muchmucha is a small village located about forty five km from the Tala Gate at Bandhavgarh National Park. It is about 16 km from Barhi. Bandhavgarh lies in the Umaria District of Madhya Pradesh or Central India.  

Muchmucha lies amidst Bandhavgarh forest that is a contiguous belt of the Tiger Reserve.  On one side of the village is the oldlodge that dates back to 1935. The property established by ancestors of Mr. Avinash Pathak is in a perfect state of preservation looked well after by Mr.Pathak and & Mrs.Anjali Pathak Both are avid conservationists and oversee that same attitude dawns over the village folks that their ancestors nurtured with love and care.        

Before the legislation the members were keen hunters as well as philanthropists. They donated land and aided the poor in the area of their influence. 

Muchmucha Kothi or the Lodge is an elegant structure in same state as it was whence built. Now used as accommodation for the guest who arrive here to laze in salubrious climes go birding and enjoy wildlife safaris. The place is well equipped with all amenities that can be integrated in an eco-friendly manner. 

One can enjoy a palanquin ride as well as use it for bird watching and trek in the village forest to look for wild animals including tigers and leopards. For the less adventurous a sound massage on the machaan or the inviting hammock is the best recourse to enjoy the natural surroundings.   

The large expanse of the lodge is complimented by fantastic number of birds. The property lies amidst the true tiger country and offers an ambiance that existed in golden eras of tigers in MP.   

As the story unfolds we land at the lodge on 8th January around 6 pm. Sitting near the fire place I discuss the forests and its denizen with Chandan who is Mr. Pathak's nephew and often visits the place. Jeevan is an old trekker since the days of Mr. Pathak's grand father.   

The Roaring Tiger

In the cold evening the three of us huddle together by the bonfire waiting for the family and the guests to arrive. A cup of tea makes us feel warmer and cheerful. The roar is distinct and Jeevan's trained ears are the first to hear. "It is about 200 yards from the lodge and closing in," he whispers as we rush towards the direction of the roar. I have been to Muchmucha earlier but the evening never started like the way it did today.   

We waited with bated breath as the roar became louder and louder. The tiger was very near to the last hut and was searching for the buffalo that it killed yesterday. "The carcass has been carried away by the owners," whispers Jeevan. The thunderous roar continued  for about fifteen minutes and then there was complete silence. 

When the party arrived we narrated the exciting event and could see disappointment writ large on their continence. Nevertheless the fun filled evening warmed up with many exciting jungle lore narrated evocatively by the shikaris who serviced the family.  

The drive to the village forest yielded many deers but the tiger had vanished into the deeper confines. We went up to the river and managed to see herds of spotted deer, a huge sambar deer, barking deer and a dainty civet cat. After an exhaustive night aided by sumptuous meal and some drinks we knocked off quite late.      

The morning brought in a  greater surprise as the guard woke me up at five o'clock  The bitter cold and tiredness made things difficult nevertheless I walked up to the edge of the lodge. "It is very close," the guard said. "Much closer then yesterday I am sure," I told guard. Much to our surprise a tigress began calling as she walked towards the tiger. Obviously we could not see the pair and decided not to approach them so as not to disturb. After some time there was a brief scuffle and frightening growls and then all was over.

We stood waiting for some more roars but there was complete silence. The party awoke late and heard us again with some disappointment. It was too cold and they were all very tired hence we did not wake them up. For the day and next we heard many alarm cries around the lodge while enjoying the bonfire and delicious snacks. We had an exciting time birding as well sighting wildlife around the village forests.  

The mating tigers were much too busy and secretive to awake us again but the memory bank will teem for life time.     

We enjoyed the gracious hospitality at the lodge. The central structure with its eco-friendly flush-less baths and grand but simple rooms offered us delightful comforts and sound sleep. However a couple of rooms with attached bath are being built for the conventional tourists.      

The tigers and leopards roam around in the confines of the village hunting on cattle as well as deer who come to raid the fields in hoards.  Muchmucha is a true tiger land at Bandhavgarh. The wildlife lodge at Bandhavgarh is managed by the couple and many an esteemed personality like Mr. Sumant Moolgaonkar of Tata were regular visitors.

The diverse habitat offers excellent bird watching opportunity and many birders visit the lodge every year. Wild animal sightings are exciting, the pleasure at the lodge is enhanced by the activities that includes tribal dance and musical performances.  

Reaching Muchmucha: it is about 16 km from Barhi after Katni. One has to take a left turn from Kuan village on the road to Umaria which is 32 km from the National Park. Umaria is about fifty plus km to Kuan Village. One can also approach Muchmucha from Khitauli Range of the reserve.   

A beautiful tigress and her cubs

It was an eventful tiger safari with my guests Dianne and Christopher from Australia. Avid birders they wished to see the tiger as well. 

The first safari on X'Mas in the Kanha Zone at the evening was uneventful. I could see disappointment as it usually comes about. The next day was Wednesday and there were no safaris hence we went birding. The guests were very happy with the outcome in the buffer Zone of Kanha National Park. 

Thursday fetched some luck as we saw a tigress as she was being flushed out by the trained elephants. Birding at Kanha is exciting and we could come across many interesting species. The last safari on the 28th December was  most exciting, we were cruising along in the bitter cold that morning without much to see. Eventually at one of the water bodies we met a jeep who had seen a tiger cub before we arrived. 

We waited for the tigress and cubs to surface but without luck. We decided to drive ahead to the spot were we had seen the tigress and her cubs. There were ten jeeps waiting there to the family since rampant calls were being heard.     

I told my guests that we will see the tiger and asked the driver to drive back to the water body. This is were the strayed cub was and the mother would certainly fetch him back. As luck would have it we came across the tigress running at full speed in our direction. Fear took over, I knew if the female took us for the cause of disturbance then she would surely charge. Luckily with one graceful leap she dashed into the bush. She was gone perhaps with the strayed cub following her in the dense canopy.   

We heaved a sigh of relief and turned back stunned by the amazing spectacle. The cubs and the female were not seen again but gave me an excuse to boast my experience. At the hotel in Kanha the guests said. "You can keep boasting. You are excused". So I went on to narrate more such events in my jungle adventures. 

Tracking tigers is a tough job and things do not work out well all the time. Tiger chase is like looking for a needle in a hay stack. Sometimes the events arise favorable and they are lifetime moments. This is what my experience has been at Kanha and other National Parks in India.   

Another Tiger Killed

A tiger was butchered here about two day back and its part cut off at jungles of Umaria near Bandhavgarh National Park. The tiger poachers were caught by the police while two poachers are still at large.One of the poachers is said to have taken the tigers limb for cooking. Earlier a tiger was electrocuted on this Sunday in the Ghunghuti Forests near Bandhavgarh. 

Blue Eyed Tiger by Tirath Singh

Bandhavgarh Landscape

This is the said state of tiger conservation in India. There is no proactive stand to prevent the extermination of this majestic cat and few hundred remain. While so much was furor was caused  by the tiger tourism issue no one bothers to bring forth the actual issues. The lacuna in our conservation efforts and absolute disregard for other life forms in India.

Nauradehi - Wild India

My eyes begin to scour the jungle as soon as we enter the sanctuary. From the gate it is a short ride to the Rest House at Mohali Range. We unpack and settle down for a hot cup of chai. Me and Peter both relish the chai, me without milk and Peter makes his own concoction with milk. Peter Gould (UK) my guest is an avid wild-lifer and birding enthusiast with years of experience.   

Having made many stops for birding on the way to Nauradehi from Jabalpur we could not reach in the early morning hours. Anyway there was much in store as we reached the Khapra Kedha Lake. We were greeted by the Black Storks, Wooly Necked Storks and Lesser Adjutant Storks besides Great Cormorant and vast assortment of avian species. A lone raptor Crested Hawk Eagle sat silently on a dead tree trunk at the top.   

From here we moved on to Jamna Rashi water body and on the way we saw a Chinkara. At the reservoir we saw Little Cormorants, Common Chiff Chaff, Tailor Bird, Plain Prinia, Wryneck and Little Grebe. We then returned to the RH via the Mohali Village where we saw a Striated Grassbird ?  Peter did not agree...but we had little time to watch the avian.

At the Mohuli Rest House we saw Honey Buzzard, White Eyes, White Browed Fantail, Short Toed Snake Eagle in Flight.   

The evening at Cheola Lake was little interesting as few heads of Sambar, Axis Deer and Nilgai Rolled by. We saw Northern Pintail and Lesser Whistling Teals and some wagtails. We shook hands with a baby Chinkara in captivity before moving back to the RH. On the way back we saw a Black Naped Hare in the settling dusk. That was all for the day no wolf in store. 

At RH we meet with the young energetic DFO Mr. Devakaran. He is busy with work but does take out time to exchange views. He is dedicated to the chore and enthusiastic, he shows us a photograph of Indian Wolf he has taken and that of many birds. With young dedicated people at helm the Sanctuary has a brighter future. He has a tough task at hand...he does not seem to dither     

Next day we move out a bit late as our guide wishes us to see the Mugger. We visit some other places and Khapra Taloa before reaching the Chakai Pond on River Bamner. At Khapra Lake we saw a Bonelli's Eagle besides Grey Heron and Lesser Adjutant Storks.

At Chakai Backwater we saw about four mugger crocodiles and some birds. An Indian Eagle Owl was chased away by Large Billed Crow before we can photograph it. We saw White Browed Fantail, White Bellied Drongo, Sulphur Bellied Warbler, Gray Headed Canary Flycatcher and Crested Serpent Eagle.

We than move on to another water body and find six seven muggers basking in the Sun on the rock at the bank. On return we see  White Eyed Buzzard and Bay Backed Shrike fly past. NWLS is always buzzing with life.   

In the evening we went to the highest spot at Nauradehi Wildlife Sanctuary. On the top we spotted tiger scat I mean something that looked like it. We picked it for analysis at the Veterinary College in Jabalpur.  This would be a major find if it belongs to the tiger. We wait for some time and enjoy the antics of Plain Billed Flower Pecker on the teak tree. 

As we roll down we see some Indian Gazelle on the banks of a large water body. Much to our surprise the pug marks of leopard show a hurried pace as if it resulted in a chase. We see more Chinkara as we drive down to the RH.   

The safari has come to an end Peter has mixed feeling,"Too  much for too little. I do not feel so since I did have to shelve a penny from my pocket. He!He! The package cost is high keeping the accommodation, arrangements and gate fees etc into consideration. The forest department staff has been good to us both in terms of hospitality and jungle exploration. The team is active in conserving the forests and its denizens.  

Anyway Noradehi is a must visit sanctuary since you get a different ecosystem to see and many less seen animals are often seen here. The Crocodiles number more than 200 hundred in Vyarama and Bamner River. The Sloth Bear population also seems to be high and so does that of the Wolf...as I am informed. The Tiger and the Leopard are elusive by all means in this once robust tiger country. This is a good place for birding and much more discoveries await you.   

With greater conservation measures in place, the sanctuary has a promising future. 

Reaching Noradehi : Jabalpur to Patan - TenduKheda - Jhalon to Jhapan Gate. Mr. Avinash Pathak organizes wild safaris at Nauradehi through his company Indiana Safari based in Jabalpur, MP.

Accommodation : The visitors usually make a day trip from Jabalpur, Bhopal or Sagar in MP. For those who wish to stay overnight the Mohali Rest House has to be booked from DFO Office at Sagar. The RH is well maintained but one should take supplements like ration and warm coverings.  

The best season is the winters. But summer safari/birding could also yield exciting surprises.    

The Day of The Jackal

The animal turned and twisted like an acrobat throwing its whole body into spirals driven by fear of death. I pressed on my breaks, hard, and a life was saved. There were fast moving cars zipping past me at breakneck speed the jackal would had been killed instantly. But the animal was wise and chose to face a slower moving car in that moment of erred action which proves suicidal for so many wild species. 

Death of wild animals on Indian roads is a common phenomena, and hardly any body pays attention to this menace. Jackals, snakes, rabbits, foxes, deer, leopard, tigers, elephant, and more are regular victims of our transportation systems.   

Well it was a good day for me. Hey man do not go nuts it was only a jackal.

Much Ado About Nothing - Tiger Tourism Ban

After so much of involvement of Legal System nothing has come out of the case. Those who were favoring the ban on tiger tourism have been proved wrong and their myopia exposed. The misguided approach has caused revenue loss to eco-tourism industry as whole since many bookings were cancelled.Colossal loss will not be recovered this year.  Inbound tourists arrive in India with advance arrangements due to travel regulations and prior bookings.  

New Safaris will be conducted in according to guidelines of NTCA as per the Supreme Court. Tourism in twenty percent of core zones or critical tiger habitat is assured. The whole tiger community is in an elated state. Lively hood of many dependents has been saved.  

Read More: Tiger Tourism Ban News