Bandhavgarh - Tiger in The BackYard

Muchmucha is a small village located about forty five km from the Tala Gate at Bandhavgarh National Park. It is about 16 km from Barhi. Bandhavgarh lies in the Umaria District of Madhya Pradesh or Central India.  

Muchmucha lies amidst Bandhavgarh forest that is a contiguous belt of the Tiger Reserve.  On one side of the village is the oldlodge that dates back to 1935. The property established by ancestors of Mr. Avinash Pathak is in a perfect state of preservation looked well after by Mr.Pathak and & Mrs.Anjali Pathak Both are avid conservationists and oversee that same attitude dawns over the village folks that their ancestors nurtured with love and care.        

Before the legislation the members were keen hunters as well as philanthropists. They donated land and aided the poor in the area of their influence. 

Muchmucha Kothi or the Lodge is an elegant structure in same state as it was whence built. Now used as accommodation for the guest who arrive here to laze in salubrious climes go birding and enjoy wildlife safaris. The place is well equipped with all amenities that can be integrated in an eco-friendly manner. 

One can enjoy a palanquin ride as well as use it for bird watching and trek in the village forest to look for wild animals including tigers and leopards. For the less adventurous a sound massage on the machaan or the inviting hammock is the best recourse to enjoy the natural surroundings.   

The large expanse of the lodge is complimented by fantastic number of birds. The property lies amidst the true tiger country and offers an ambiance that existed in golden eras of tigers in MP.   

As the story unfolds we land at the lodge on 8th January around 6 pm. Sitting near the fire place I discuss the forests and its denizen with Chandan who is Mr. Pathak's nephew and often visits the place. Jeevan is an old trekker since the days of Mr. Pathak's grand father.   

The Roaring Tiger

In the cold evening the three of us huddle together by the bonfire waiting for the family and the guests to arrive. A cup of tea makes us feel warmer and cheerful. The roar is distinct and Jeevan's trained ears are the first to hear. "It is about 200 yards from the lodge and closing in," he whispers as we rush towards the direction of the roar. I have been to Muchmucha earlier but the evening never started like the way it did today.   

We waited with bated breath as the roar became louder and louder. The tiger was very near to the last hut and was searching for the buffalo that it killed yesterday. "The carcass has been carried away by the owners," whispers Jeevan. The thunderous roar continued  for about fifteen minutes and then there was complete silence. 

When the party arrived we narrated the exciting event and could see disappointment writ large on their continence. Nevertheless the fun filled evening warmed up with many exciting jungle lore narrated evocatively by the shikaris who serviced the family.  

The drive to the village forest yielded many deers but the tiger had vanished into the deeper confines. We went up to the river and managed to see herds of spotted deer, a huge sambar deer, barking deer and a dainty civet cat. After an exhaustive night aided by sumptuous meal and some drinks we knocked off quite late.      

The morning brought in a  greater surprise as the guard woke me up at five o'clock  The bitter cold and tiredness made things difficult nevertheless I walked up to the edge of the lodge. "It is very close," the guard said. "Much closer then yesterday I am sure," I told guard. Much to our surprise a tigress began calling as she walked towards the tiger. Obviously we could not see the pair and decided not to approach them so as not to disturb. After some time there was a brief scuffle and frightening growls and then all was over.

We stood waiting for some more roars but there was complete silence. The party awoke late and heard us again with some disappointment. It was too cold and they were all very tired hence we did not wake them up. For the day and next we heard many alarm cries around the lodge while enjoying the bonfire and delicious snacks. We had an exciting time birding as well sighting wildlife around the village forests.  

The mating tigers were much too busy and secretive to awake us again but the memory bank will teem for life time.     

We enjoyed the gracious hospitality at the lodge. The central structure with its eco-friendly flush-less baths and grand but simple rooms offered us delightful comforts and sound sleep. However a couple of rooms with attached bath are being built for the conventional tourists.      

The tigers and leopards roam around in the confines of the village hunting on cattle as well as deer who come to raid the fields in hoards.  Muchmucha is a true tiger land at Bandhavgarh. The wildlife lodge at Bandhavgarh is managed by the couple and many an esteemed personality like Mr. Sumant Moolgaonkar of Tata were regular visitors.

The diverse habitat offers excellent bird watching opportunity and many birders visit the lodge every year. Wild animal sightings are exciting, the pleasure at the lodge is enhanced by the activities that includes tribal dance and musical performances.  

Reaching Muchmucha: it is about 16 km from Barhi after Katni. One has to take a left turn from Kuan village on the road to Umaria which is 32 km from the National Park. Umaria is about fifty plus km to Kuan Village. One can also approach Muchmucha from Khitauli Range of the reserve.   

Muchmucha Tigers

A Wildlife Safari at Muchmucha

Night had set in by the time we reached Kuan village on road to Barhi and turned in for Muchmucha. It was going to be a tiring night and exciting as well, I could feel the coming in my bones. As we moved on I saw a pair of Chinkara then a Jackal and Spotted deer...things had started to happen. 

After negotiating a rough road with  lots of bends and turns we finally reached the Old Hunting Lodge at Muchmucha. The lodge belongs to Avinash Pathak landlords of Katni District in Madhya Pradesh, India. The lodge as I had imagined was a colonial style structure with touch of class. Modernity only exists as electricity for some hours, antique, appealing furniture and stylish cutlery. But refurnish exercise is being planned for travelers. The hunting lodge stands out imposingly amidst the rustic dwelling of the tribal.  

The folks hang around the lodge whenever Avinash Bhai is there. They come to pay their obeisance to a family that has nurtured them since ages.

Jeep Safari

I finally settled down for a brief rest in the bedroom. Till this day the grand lodge is as it was built. Neat clean and spacious with old style bathrooms in the vicinity. The hunting lodge has been host to large number of top brass who came here for hunt and to enjoy the family's gracious hospitality.   

There are no trophies anymore, but photographs of wild animals adorn the whitewashed walls. Steeped deep into nature conservation the owners now work for preservation of local wilderness. 

While sitting by the fireside we decided to explore the surroundings. Our night safari began at two o'clock and it had become cold Brrrrrr! We traversed a short distance from the village and soon entered the confines of dense forest. I was expecting a scanty denuded forest but was surprised by dense canopy all around. We crisscrossed through the rough jungle road on the old Willys Jeep in expectation. Soon we were greeted by a small gathering of barking deer foraging in grass amidst tall stands.   

The night safari went on, and in the halo of the starry night we came across nocturnal animals like civets, porcupines and fox. Night jars and Eurasian Thicknee were in plentiful. The eyes of Nilgai and Samabar shone like sparkling diamonds in the darkness.  After an exciting safari we finally headed for the lodge, happy and contended. 

No tigers here eh?

Avinash Bhai gave a benign smile and beckoned me to retire..it was four thirty AM. I received the answer next morning as locals who came to greet the landlord informed us about two cattle kills. One about four hundred meters from the lodge and the other near neighboring Barmani village.   

The kills were made by the young adult tigers, recently separated from the mother, the herdsmen informed us.  Much earlier a tigress with cubs was spotted near the village often. Strips of forest make in roads into the surroundings near the village. Or rather the expanding human habitation has stripped the dense forests on village border. Fields intrude in what was once a dense patch of woodland.

Part of dense Bandhavgarh canopy small belts of the forest encircle the village. Muchmucha is about 25 km as the crow flies from the park and about 30 km of drive.   

On closure inspection the surmise came out to be true. The cattle was much larger than we had expected. It was a clean kill with canine punctures on throat that ruptured the arteries. There was no messing around as leopard do with kills larger than they are made for. The pugmarks around seemed to be that of a young tigress and we followed them till the water hole. We came here again in that night but could not see the tiger. The animal had eaten more of the hind part and had probably slipped into the darkness on hearing the jeep. In order not to disturb the animal at kill, we stopped crossing through this area and hoped that we will sight it in the neighborhood.       

Being so close to human habitation the shy behavior was evident and there was no movement during the daytime. We heard alarm cries often, but by the time we reached the spots the animal moved into the forest. The other kill was probably the work of a male since it was made right in the cowshed of a large dwelling and dragged into to the neighboring forest for consumption. The kill at Muchmucha was made by a tigress and she was not big enough to drag it into the canopy. Hence she could consume only at night that to with great difficulty as it lay near an open field. After a two days of feasting she probably moved into the dense forests some distance away?   

We stayed at Muchmucha and explored the surroundings for safaris and bird watching which was our purpose. The old hunting lodge is to be turned into an ethnic accommodation for night/day safaris and birding. It is highly suited for niche travelers nature lovers and birders. Those interested in ethnic stay and rural experience alongside exciting wildlife safaris in India. The plan is to offer a combined holiday experience of local culture, day and night safaris and bird watching. A trip to Bandhavgarh tourism zone is possible on request. This will be good for those interested in exploring the tiger reserves neighborhood and visit to Bamera Tank, Umrar River, Marzad Garh and Muchmucha forests. This part of the tiger reserve has not been explored yet for tourism and is much exciting. The tour is being promoted online on Indiana Safari Website. 

It was a fun stay at Muchmucha and I could get the feel of old days. The lodge is a grand affair of simplicity that makes life possible in remote areas. The offerings though simple have a touch if class in colonial style - the days of the British Raj.   

The Muchmucha village of 400 is on the way to progress. But I am sure it will retain its wilderness in the surroundings though not in immediate confines as it is now. The animals we could see suggested of good population of spotted deer, samabar, wild boar, langurs, barking deer and Nilgai the desired prey of the tigers. There are many leopard sightings taking place where ever the forest exists. One can come across sloth bear, wild dog and perhaps Hyena and Wolf? Highly endangered animals beside the tigers find shelter here. The prime example is the Chinkara which has lost large grounds in Madhya Pradesh. A proper population estimate of animals especially the Chinkara would require subsequent time to be spent here. The place is rich in forest birds and combined with expeditions at near by wetlands, scrub and fields the birding is exciting. 

The cattle kills though suggestive of the vanishing tiger augurs threat to the big cat. Humans think of themselves firsts and more incidence like these would lead to the cleansing syndrome.