Swamp Deer Conservation at Kanha National Park

It was probably my second visit to Kanha National Park, the year was 1976. We were on elephant safari. We swayed left and right on the pachyderm as it waded precariously through dense canopy towards the grasslands. We could see the pen a mesh of wires covering a large area of Kanha Meadow. The pen is still there.    

Human intervention in most of the tiger reserves in India is minimized. This prevents undue intrusion into a fragile ecosystem. But some times the intervention is necessary.

Swamp Deer - Uday Patel

After losing large swaths of grassland ecosystems due intruding human settlements, the status of the hard ground swamp deer or the Barasingha was endangered. Critically endangered. With only sixty six animals left in the meadows of the park it was time something was done about.

Swamp Deer survived in massive herds in grasslands and swamps in Central India, Terai or Himalayan foothills and extreme East. One of the most charismatic red deer it belongs to family Cervidae genus cervus species duvacelli with three races in India. The population has shrunk all over due to spread of human settlements and takeover of swamps and grasslands for agriculture. Incidentally this animal survives only on grass and that too on few species. They have also been seen consuming water plants in small water bodies that are present in the core area of the park. Being sensitive to human presence these animals are found only in the core zone which is inviolate. 

Branderi Barasingha as it is also known is the only race (branderi) that is found in Kanha. Through centuries of evolution, the hoof of the animal has lost its splay making it adaptable for hard ground. This happened as the swamps in the region began shrink out due to geological changes. This fact was discovered by British conservationist Dunbar Brander during the days of the Raj.

During the seventies intense research was carried out under the aegis of George Schaller et.el. The startling discovery made was extensive predation of fawns by the tiger and other carnivores. The solution was simple...let the deer breed in absence of predators. The large pen was a perfect fit, it was cleaned of all predators big and small. The deer bred safely in isolation...and still does.

Male & Female- Dinesh Makhija

The number gradually increased and today more than five hundred swamp deer roam the wild grasslands of Kanha.  With the numbers on increase some deer have been trans-located to Satpura Tiger Reserve in Madhya Pradesh. Few heads have been sent to Van Vihar Safari Park at Bhopal for gene pool conservation. 

Images By John Matthai

 Dinesh Makhija

  Dinesh Makhija

Barasingha mate during the winters from November to February. The territorial fights during the breeding season settle out who is the dominant male. Adorned with tufts of grass the male then tries to impress the spouse to be. This is an interesting spectacle what with the accompaniment of the bugle call.        

Though in Hindi Barasingha means deer with twelve horns there can be more than twelve tines present. The female gives birth to one fawn after a gestation of six months. The fawns grow into maturity under the care of the mothers whilst males form a separate schools after mating is over.

The animals association with grasslands has led to extensive research. Thanks to active conservation and translocation of villages the deer have a stable habitat to breed and multiply. Almost all large meadows like Kanha, Saunf, Parsatola, Saunder, Bisenpura have associated water bodies thus forming and excellent habitat for this rare species in India.  

Kanha National Park - Man Killing - Indian Tiger Conservation Issues

Kanha National Park
Madhya Pradesh - India

It is always unfortunate whenever a human is killed by a tiger. The tragic circumstances always manage to raise eyebrows - even among the avid conservatives. Human life is precious but we have ordained it to be supreme and in the gluttony we have forgotten about other life forms.  

It is because of this attitude that animals like tiger, rhino and many more have lost ground and are on the last leg of survival. I have rarely come across stress on increasing land for other forms. Anyway India takes the lead but is this enough? 

Unlike the Asiatic Lion which has survived and come out of the brink of extinction in South Gujarat in India the tiger lags much behind. There are more than five hundred lion in 22000 sq km in Gujarat and expanding.

Though this has created problems for large agglomeration of rural and small town folks the acceptance seems to be remarkable. Man animal conflict persists but it seems that there are many sympathizers of the big cat hence assuring its survival. The lions are slated for relocation in Kuno Papur in Central India which has still not taken place thank to parochialism.     

The tiger has been nowhere lucky in reserves in India where it now survives. Stray tigers outside the protected areas have no guarantee of survival. While many reserves are still not adequately protected unlike Kanha, Ranthambhore etc the populations in well managed parks has increased marginally. This does not ensure the animals survival. 

Large inviolate protected areas are need of the hour with adequate protection. This seems highly improbable in a populous country like India. For well managed parks like Kanha the problem stems from buffer zone which is not inviolate much disturbed by habitation and free movement. 

Tiger By John Matthai

A wise step has been taken to bring a large patch of forest in Khatia Zone under tourism thus assuring any further degradation. The buck stops here or does it? There are options to create more tourism areas using other blocks of forests in buffer - if any viable. 

Wilful relocation with adequate compensation for reclamation and expansion of existing forest land are a possibility.  Such efforts have been successfully made  at Laldang near Corbett Tiger Reserve. 

But this is impossible at many destinations due to immense complexities - social and political.             

There are large number of villages at Kanha buffer. Many have been trans located from the core zone.  The humanity is accompanied with overabundance of live stock and redundant agricultural land claimed from forest land. Usually single paddy crop takes place. 

The successful conservation in the reserve has populated tigers in all canopies. The animals have moved in or enlarged their territory in all viable tracts of buffer forests. Like lions in South Gujarat they have learned to be inconspicuous in human infested corridors. But unlike their cousin the Bengal tiger cannot inhabit open country - and degraded forests with no prey.  Hence widespread habitation by their expanding populations seems improbable.     

Hence tragedy occurs.     

An old man went into the forest and was killed by a tiger. This seems to be an accidental killing since no more such incident has taken place.  But the implications of this act of intrusion resulted killing does not augur a great future for the tiger in India. Human encroachment is rarely put to blame which is squarely transferred to the beleaguered predator.    

The big cats are still endangered. Reclamation of forests and creating i

intact ecosystems is one of the solution.

Man Eating Tigers

Yesterday I was watching a film on Sunderbans and the man-eaters. The mystery has not yet been solved why this magnificent carnivore goes after humans only in these parts. The victims are usually fishermen, villagers, honey gatherers, and such people who venture deep into the forest.  

People also venture into dense confines in other tiger reserves but no such incident happens in these places. 

Why Sunderbans? 

Has rampant hunting elsewhere put the fear of man among the tigers which have been sent down the line. Such hunting has not taken place in the Sunderbans.  

Does this have something to do with the absence of large prey like the sambar, rhino, swamp deer, and bison? In recent times swamp deer, Javan rhino, one-horned rhino, water buffalo, hog deer, and barking deer have become locally extinct. Sambar and Bison have not been reported here...  

Tigers rely much on coarse grazers like bison, swamp deer, and sambar for food. This accords them with a sufficient amount of meat at low energy expenditure. During summers whence bison descend from hills to Kanha meadows predation by tigers becomes frequent.

Tiger in Forest

Swamp Deer

Male Tiger

The second line of prey in most of our tiger reserves is livestock, especially cattle and buffaloes. Perhaps this spares the lives of humans around in the buffer zones as man-eating seems unnecessary in these circumstances. 

Tigers are petrified in presence of humans, as I have often witnessed, hence leaving them alone seems to be the motto of the predators. 

But not in the mangrove-infested forest of Sunderbans it seems.  

Well, one does not know.

Well not till some researcher discovers the reason that has bellied us so far. 

Sunderban tigers not only kill those who venture into deep confines but attack rural folks in the neighborhood as well.   

The film sent a chill down my spine since as a naturalist I have frequent encounters with tigers and leopards. Well, it's a job and they all come with the negative. I would not let go of this adventure anyway.   

Photo Credits: Dinesh Makhija - Motel Chandan Kanha

Mother Tiger Epitome of Womenhood

Ruth & Clive Williams UK  
Photographer Guests: Courtyard House Kanha

We had searched the tigress and her cubs thoroughly for many days but with partial success. My earlier guest was not interested in a glimpse at all. Well that is what we could get. The family was often seen near waterholes in depth of Kanha forest but would be conspicuous by its absence in between.      

Anyway we could not get a proper sight during our last tiger safaris.

Tigresses are possessive and protective mothers and keep shifting from one place to another. This is done to teach cubs to survive in the vast ecosystem and get familiar with things around. Other reasons for regular shifts are to avoid male tigers who have not sired the cubs, avoid other predators, and yes the prey as well. The latter is a practice among the hunters to deceive prey such that they are unaware of  the predator's presence.    

In our recent tiger safari we stationed ourselves near a bridge over a rugged nullah which was favored for its ample water during the blistering summer. For some time there was no big cat in sight nor any alarm cries. My heart thumps with disappointment when the jungle is silent. 

We were thinking of our next move whence the jarring call of deer stilled us into silence.

"Alarm cry." I blurted, out well it was obvious the sound was loud and clear. The call was from deep inside, a bit away from the stream. Then silence again. We scored the neighborhood for signs of the tiger but none. After a long wait the calls erupted again this time further back.

"Where to?" I asked the guide. That was enough for him. We drove to a grove beside a Banyan Tree. There we waited till we heard the mother calling her cubs. A strange call more like the langur. We drove ahead for a surprise that lay ahead. And what a surprise. "Tiger!"         

At a distance from us the tigress, three cubs were resting on the jungle road. With his long lens Clive began to work till the big cats eventuality vanished into the woods. They then emerged well ahead in the grassland challenging our eyesight by their camouflage. The the big cats continued, perhaps on the hunt as we left for the exit.        

After a couple of days we visited the area again. Thinking that the family has moved to another area we were not going to wait for long. But the ways of the jungle are strange they had come back as the pug marks indicated some distance ahead. As we drove further we came across the mother's spoor. "They are still near somewhere here." I whispered to the guide.  

"Lets check the Banyan tree and the surroundings." The guide instructed. We did but there was only stillness that greeted us. "Back!" I said.

The roars were anxiety filled as we saw the tigress scampering madly, constantly calling loudly. "She is looking for the cubs/cub," I spoke. I could observe the desperation on the mother's face as she came onto the road and then began moving towards the Eco-tone.     

I was moved beyond words, the missing cubs/cub create loads of anxiety for the mother. She then headed towards the bridge on the nullah roaring continuously.  

Out of nowhere emerged the cub. He ran frantically towards the mother. There were howls of greeting and the writ of relief ran large on their countenance. Together they moved towards the favored spot and vanished.

"The other cubs are already at the spot near the stream." I said."Well lets wait."

A number of jeeps had arrived to witness the solemn moment. And it did happen. The tigress and cubs emerged and proceeded towards a large puddle and began to quench their thirst.

For my guests photographers this was an absolute bonanza. They were witnessing and capturing the moment with gusto.                  

Work done we moved on memory of the spectacle etched etched forever.

The images are awaited. 

World in My Camera

Mic Clark 
Wales U.K

Guest Courtyard House at Kanha

Mic Clark is a much-traveled man. And if your travel takes you to wild places then you are lucky as well. Well, it is hard work and much sacrifice. He is a wildlife photographer, as dedicated as one can be. I had the honor of guiding him consequentially for two expeditions at Kanha National Park.    

For naturalists accompanying professional photographers is a learning experience...experienced or amateurs. The discipline and committed approach to tasks offer much to gain from...as I did. 

Mic has been to Gambia, Kenya, and Sri Lanka besides India where he has visited many tiger parks. Though he photographs all things in nature his love for the big cats is evident. 

It is a challenging task to capture images of tigers and leopards elusive as they are. We have been quite successful in the endeavor.  Tigers, sloth bears, leopards, swamp deer, barking deer, sambar, and many birds have come our way in the pristine magnificence that is Kanha. With great care Mic has captured images of the subjects that he chose. I am sure images would be startling.          

As is apparent from his wildlife photography website his images are spell-binding. Years of hard work do pay which is important for young entrants to understand. There is no magic wand that showers these hard-won imageries.    

His wildlife photographs have been sold and widely published on reputable resources. 

Amazing Wildlife of Pench - Dharmagiri

As an experienced naturalist he earlier worked in Nepal but since a long time he is looking after Jungle Home Pench at Turia near Pench Tiger Reserve. I met him some years back on my visit to the reserve and was...well his images will complete the sentence. 

Dharmagiri has an eye for photography that is all encompassing with stunning imagery of natural history and rare moments.  As a blogger, wildlife enthusiast and naturalist I present his work below.

Male Tiger at Pench

Collared Tigress

Dhole

Gaur

Langur

Flyingsquirrel

IndianWolf

Jackal

Hunt

JackalonKill

JungleCat

Flehmen

Commonkrait

Leopard

Tigressonrock

rhesusmacaque

Ruddymongoose

Tigeratwaterhole

MaleTiger

Wilddogs at play

   

Debacle at Pench - Poaching of Tigers

The poaching of Bagin Nala Tigress and her cubs reminds me of my first visit to the park at River Pench. 

In that bright sunny day I could feel that I was in a tiger heaven just as Kipling had penned in his famous Jungle Book. I could imagine Mowgli along with the wolf pack waving at me from behind the dense canopy that lined attentively all along the road to Karmajhiri.  

The forest ranger had given me a lift generously from Khawasa but was in no mood to elaborate what lay all along us. In his deep husky drawl he informed me, "animals here are larger." And then there was silence as we moved on to the final destination the forest rest house.    

Those enamored by negative fall out of tourism..there were no hotels then as tourism was in infancy.  Few people from Nagpur made day visits for excursions.  

Seoni Hills and surrounding forests of Chindwara were once abode of the tigers and teemed with wildlife. Most of the forests have been denuded in the last few decades, but the ecosystem is still intact in the Pench Tiger Reserve that engulfs Madhya Pradesh and Maharashtra border region on the Jabalpur Nagpur highway.  

The tiger was in the precarious state whence I arrived at Pench. Along with the tiger, other animals were being electrocuted using the 11 KVA line that passed through. The villagers had access through the park, possibly translocation had still not taken place?

The charred remains of the tiger unnerved me no end, the seat of the administration at that time was Karmajhiri barely two kilometers away. Other animals besides a poacher were charred to death using this hideous method.

The countenance of those responsible for protection of  wilderness was, at best could be described as shocking. There were more explanation for the events than action...

Tigress Pench

Tigress with cubs at Pench

and as we see in India all things gradually fizzle out. It did.

The shocking incidence at Pench is suggestive of prevailing presence of  the poaching fraternity, and nothing has been done regarding this. The wildlife is still in danger thanks to ineffective mechanisms and lack of will to foresee what threats are emerging. Is there a proactive strategy in place?   

The animals are surviving somehow, but a noose hangs around them all the time. After engaging abundant resource we could not prevent the murder of the most popular tigress. The fate of  many a big cats hangs in balance...entirely at the mercy of humans. 

Photo Credit: Dharmagiri

Tiger - A Poem

Black stripes on fur white orange & yellow
The mighty tiger is a gentle fellow
When all white he is a spectacle
A rare gene that is a miracle

Lives in the mysterious jungles of India
Completely hidden amid unexplored recess
Where the dense canopy accords no access
Invisible elusive & well concealed
He is forever evasive and on his heels

In ancient myths that unfold
A thousand stories are told
Of the Lord a ghostly marauder
Of the king a bloodthirsty exterminator

In belief a mystical kind
A jungle spirit hard to find
One that fears none at all
All the creatures big and small

He stalks invisibly in the night
Nary a sound nary a sight
He kills with impunity without a fight
In one strike powered by the beastly might

A snarl and deafening roars
A lightening charge always in store
All core of many a jungle lore
He kills not for fun but for need
On wild animals does he feed

A dreadful fear the beast invokes
Among those who dare to provoke
When he learns the taste of man
He is no more a gentlemen

He kills mercilessly near and far
In the day he strikes afar
Even in the night devoid of stars
Terror strikes with ferocious rage
Till he is shot or put in the cage

Of enormous proportions the beast
Of impressive agility & speed
An epitome of power and stealth
He is coveted by those with wealth
For fur claws and bones
They leave unturned no stones
A magical mystical beast indeed
He is frightening none the least

For hunters he is a trophy
For poachers he is a bounty
From hundred thousand to handful
The vanishing tiger is in a status dreadful
Critically endangered and fast loosing ground
The destiny awaits its final round

Save the tiger do not let him perish
From face of the Earth lest he vanish

Uday Patel

Photo Credits Teerath Singh

The Elusive Leopard

Yellow fur dotted with rosettes black
Painted like an artist's board to attract
He is the nature's star Lo behold
Handsome creature with striking features that on one look unfold

Leopard is the cynosure of all the eyes
A jungle spirit that depends on guise
An animal strong and very wise
He lives in the jungle to survive

Of cunning and guile and ferocity untold
The ghost of darkness is a predator very bold
He kills only to eat for he is a carnivore indeed
He hunts only herbivores and some birds to feed
That is the nature's design eat only what you need

He hides in the jungle in between rocks and canopy
Seldom seen the elusive cat is camouflaged to the tee
To hunt the unwary prey in the night
He uses stealth and complete surprise
He climbs trees with liquid ease
To save himself he often flees

Full of beauty and grace
With striking eyes on charming face
Smaller than his cousin the tiger
But equally strong and much wiser

The spots change are never the same
They have brought him name and fame
Poached for fur and game
Struggling to survive and loosing space
An animal labeled vermin and disgraced
The beast is facing his last days
He will be extinct for sure
Lest we mend our greedy ways

Save the leopard save his life
Give him space and let survive

 Uday Patel

Photo Credit Dharamagiri

Tiger Family on Wildlife Safari

Guests: Tirjmen & Miranda - Netherland 

At Courtyard House Kanha

Munna Tiger the beloved was our target for that eventful evening. I was bit apprehensive about his appearance as in this season water is well spread and so is the prey. Munna supervises and marks his whole territory in order to remain as the dominant male. Winters is also abuzz with mating big cats hence busy time for them. 

Nevertheless we took a chance. Me and my Dutch guests.  

"Digdola" I said as the driver turned into the act. Air was high with expectancy and we were fully alert. This hillside is part of Kisli Zone at Kanha National Park and home to very many tigers big and small. The picturesque range is preferred zone of those on tiger safari. The approach road is from Khatia Gate, it eventually connects with the road to Kanha Zone. The wildlife park has three main entrances other two are Sarhi and Mukki.

The unique feature of this terrain is presence of many water bodies, dense Sal, mixed forests, bamboo and grasslands. Most of the water bodies are on the right of the approach road while one large body is situated at the end of Digdola Hill with extensive meadows.

Kanha contains many table top mountains with plateaus having unique vegetation. The meandering rivulets are striking especially Sulkum at Sarhi Zone.  Termed as nalas in Hindi these are spots where tigers get localized during summers since water becomes a precious commodity in the scorching heat. 

As we proceeded towards the Sambar Nala we came across some jeeps waiting in expectation. Fortified by alarm cries we could make out the presence of a predator. 

"Tiger," the guide in jeep ahead of us whispered. We looked towards right only to see the dense bush. We moved back some distance and tried to have a better look. Meanwhile the jeeps heading for Kanha Zone also began arriving.    

"I can see the tiger" Miranda whispered and so could Tirjmen. Relieved, I told the driver to move forward some distance away from other jeeps. "We will wait," I said.    

There was a momentary cluster of jeeps but they soon departed after having a look at the big cat. Those with Kanha permit had to go and many in our zone did not wait, much satisfied after having seen the tiger in the bush. We could see the tiger from one point while others did from other."Two tigers," whispered the driver.   

The logjam soon cleared and only one jeep with a bunch of young photo enthusiasts waited along with us. 'We will wait right here at a good distance from the tiger," I said loud enough for the occupants in the other jeep to hear so they would follow suit. I put my hand on the driver's shoulder...stay put. My intention was not to hoard around the animal and push it out of sight. 

We waited with baited breathe in the deafening silence. Then there was a scuffle and growls. Mating? I was bubbling with excitement at the very thought.  The animals could go either way...slip down the hill or cross the jungle road. The guide informed us that there was water down the hill. "Good," I whispered if they have satiated their thirst they will either hang around or cross the road. 

We waited. 

Then. 

"Look there!" the lady pointed towards the bush. A large head emerged and in walked a male in order to cross the road. "Kankata," I hissed. This is a big male who commands territory next to that of Munna and sometimes dares to overlap.  "King of The Jungle" master of all he surveys...If this cliche let it be.     

I have learned one amazing fact that males rarely intercede into each other's domain. They get the message from scent marking on trees and other vegetation. On instance whence one male decides to take over anther's territory the scuffle begins with loud thundering roars and eye contact...glaring. If that does not settle the issue then a frenzied bout follows with minor injuries.  

If that is not enough the scuffle turns into a real fight. In case the domination is established the loser runs away else there takes place grievous injuries often resulting in death. This happens less since the domination is quiet often settled in less violent manner. This is nature's way of mitigating specie loss while deciding upon the strongest gene.    

Kankata with a dent in the ear emerged from the bush and stood on the road. The dominant males though aware of humans are rarely affected whilst on their task. The male then crossed over the road and began to drop foul smelling scat on the edge. Totally oblivious of us he cleared the neighborhood of the scat and entered the forest to lie down. 

We stayed at a safe distance...more was expected. 

"What next!,"I hissed. Ha!Ha!   

The next was emergence of an aggressive female grimacing fearfully at us, and quickly crossing over to enter the forest behind the male. The aggression among this species is often due to fear and uncertainty and whence in the company of female with cubs. Else they are extremely distrustful and frightened of humans...well who isn't?     

"So that's it," I said."The story ends here. I am sure you clicked some amazing shots." I said to my guests brimming with happiness. Earlier trips to Corbett and Ranthambhore were devoid of tiger sightings for them.

"There is another," the guide exclaimed. Well there was more in the store for us on that amazing evening. 

When in the dense jungle, swarming with predators around you, the nerves are taut with excitement and  the heart beats with fear...you can make out on the countenance of those not well versed with jungle life. 

I was expecting a courting ritual but this put that to rest. Are there two males seeking the female? Well all sorts of bizarre strike your brain as consternation develops.     

We peered into the bush at the far end and sure we could make out movement. 

Whence the tigers move there is no sound thanks to the thick padding on the feet...not even a crackle of dried leaves. The animal moves on the digits. Impression of upper pad/sole and digits is visible on ground and we describe them as pug marks. The fifth toe is way up...this is evolution and adaptation in a given habitat where speed and stealth is the order of the day. But sometimes you  can see turbulence in the grass and the vegetation, and thin sound emerges whence the body brushes against the twigs and leaves.    

For tracking tigers in the wild, a highly sensitive and trained sensory apparatus is required apart from experience. The animal belies simplicity in all terms and far out wits humans and its prey. Regularity in movement to some degree is seen near water holes in summers.     

Well patience pays and out came a young cub obviously a male. Family!. In the far out wilderness surprise belies belief. This is what was happening to us. Utter disbelief on my countenance I could see in the rear view mirror. 

The cub walked out nervously but steadily since we were at a good distance. Beauty is grace all entwined in natures magic. Pure Magic. The cub carried an expression of innocence much like our children do. It was perhaps seeing a new creature in a bewildering contraption that was not part of the ecosystem and his food chain. Fear engulfs logic and rather then waste time pondering over us he slithered into the dense canopy besides his parents.          

And Then. 

"Withhold your breathe," I said to the crowd... well on two jeeps. "There is another."

A young tiger of dimension little less the cub we saw emerged from the bush. Upon seeing the disproportionate size I could quickly infer that this one was a female. The cubs were about six to seven months old judging from the size. Fear and consternation was visible on her face.      

The young cub walked out but was still bit distant from the road. But it could not gather courage and went back into hiding. "This is a female and hence very cautious as per their basic nature. The cub though at good distance from us decided to go further ahead to cross over.     

There was a chatter of excitement as more jeeps arrived. They could see the female in the halo created by intertwining twigs and leaves. We could see both the tigress and male who was lazing upturned on the bed of grass. The tigress though on full alert was nevertheless at ease assured that her cubs were safe and at a distance from us.     

Stop Press. 

An Encounter With Tiger Family. 

The fearful tribe of killers, murderers in cold blood and perpetual enemies of humans (sic). The headlines said in the news papers.  Well nearly.

Such associations of majestic beast are encountered on notably very few occasions. This was a moment of discovery of natural history at work.  

You feel great and bloated over an encounter like this and even while describing. Why Not? 

Male Tiger

Tigress

Photo Credit Tirjmen & Miranda - Netherland