Bengal Tiger: Of reasoning and solutions

The Jhurjura tigress...a tragic event it has once again highlighted the plight of tigers in India. It has also brought to surface how event centric we are and how we fail to take preemptive and proactive action. We believe in reasoning for rational approach and too much at times. Paradoxically whence circumspect evidence is right at our door step we perform the worst. We believe in burying our heads in the sand and hope the rot stems on its own. 

As a mature democracy we show our concerns in debates, discussions, forums and public platforms. - thankfully there is a voice.  The rot continues as intellectual pursuit to ensuing problem intensifies. The answer is not always found, especially in case of ultra revolutionary, anti democratic and anti national contingencies that of late has become day to day phenomena. 

Declining tiger population is akin to state of emergency, it highlights lack of efficacy and incompetence of Governments and administrative setups in the country. It also highlights one basic fact, how localized democratic urgency dominates the whole scenario in India. If the tiger could vote or if it helped brew the local wine, its persecution could not have taken place so mercilessly.  Tiger poaching is an anti national activity -  the animal is our pride and priceless inheritance.             

We are simply unable to take timely proactive or preemptive actions as is evident from our handling of nefarious activities in our surroundings. We lack the will to go for offensive in order to defend. In case of tiger reserves certain communities (e.g.Bel Pardhi) are more inclined to poaching along side network of seasoned criminals, regular poachers and underground traders. Much more can be done to bring these people to boot as they  leave footprints (evidence) whence involved in nefarious activity. Use of snares and electric wires is increasing as means of killing big cats. How the poachers can lay traps without being caught even once is alarming. 

I have seen at Pench, tiger, bear and bison were electrocuted repeatedly at one spot barely  2 km from Karmajhiri R.H. It is reported that snares are being used in Kanha and Satpura tiger reserves. This could be  happening in all protected areas in Central India.  

The cause of the rot is well known, we all know how and why of the decline of tigers and other endangered species in India. Man animal conflicts, peripheral discontents, encroachment, wood logging are quagmire of issues that the tiger heavens face. But the worst is unchecked poaching that continues in one form or other. The impunity with which tigers in Sariska and Panna were poached is astounding. The failure can best be ascribed to: "Nero fiddled while Rome burned".           

Not exactly! But while the tigers were being poached in one of our Nation's best protected wildlife havens the administration was right there from top to bottom. And not a blotch on their deliverance of duty. Until after! After much explanatory response and counter responsive the revelation of ghastly  truth.  I am not here to blame individual lethargy and incompetence. This article lays emphasis on exposing the inability of our system to deal effectively with contingencies that arise from within. Particularly the case of vanishing tigers. This is of utmost urgency. The anomalies in systemic governance pertaining  to wildlife protection should be rectified with electric cadence. 

If a neighboring country elements can effectively fulfill demand for tiger bones by using sources from within India by exploiting the system...How safe we are in all spheres of life?

It all bores down to the fact that machinery responsible to check and discourage poaching in our tiger reserves is ineffective - due to systemic inefficiency or loop holes. There is no intelligence gathering  up to the scale, whatever is there, it has bore no fruits.   

I know that physically guarding such large sensitive territories is not easy..but than is it so immensely difficult that we loose all the tigers in short period. The most important element in preventing poaching is the beat guard and unfortunately he is the weakest element...prone to intimidation and corruption.  Teams  of trained armed guards well versed in matters of conservation and familiar with wildlife are a must. Similarly  professional wildlife manager's trained to the task are a prerequisite. Devoid of political interference the administration should be hell bent upon protecting the area. Discouragement comes from punitive action which so far has been a big farce in and around our tiger reserves.

Of late some steps have been taken or proposed but then how effective they are time will tell. The tiger's plight depends upon implementation of correct policies with a strong will that puts them in force.             

Jhurjura tigress tragic loss

I read in papers and on FaceBook the ghastly incident that occurred in Bandhavgarh Tiger Reserve few days a go. Following the incident keenly I realized that what is a National tragedy will soon be forgotten. The loss would get mired in administrative unaccountability and legal loop holes which will play their part if some substantiated findings are reached.

Jhurjura tigress is one of the many big cats that have died unnaturally before their prime. This is not only the loss of an endangered species it is indicative of care and regards that we have for other life forms.

What exactly happened?

The facts are yet to come out was it arrogant reckless driving, which I have been experiencing often since number of years?

Was it deliberate murder?

Or accident?

Let us hope that we are soon enlightened of the facts. But what next? Will the incident fall in the same vein as Panna and Sariska and forgotten or setting up of a new order pacify us.? Will few heads rise and see that the incident is not forgotten till suitable corrective action ensues in order to prevent repeat?

This is the best chance to see how we regard our National Pride. This country as whole should react to this incident.

Any way whatever happened could have been prevented. The death is a testimony to the fact that more needs to be done in order to make tourism safer and fruitful in our tiger reserves.

Reckless driving is one issue that needs to be permanently checked. The rush to reach the tiger is what increases speed. There are few parameters that can effectively check speeding vehicles. One good suggestion is to build as many speed breakers as possible. The second is for the staff to check and take necessary action. The latter is what that will be done. Ironically we demand that the staff act as sentinels to check wildlife crimes but here they will be checking us. A waste of crucial man power. 

It is not responsible tourism alone that will work it is responsible tourist that is the order of the day. How we behave as National entity is suggestive of our character and strength.

Indian Wildlife - Dead encounters

As a child I was fascinated with the natural world. The birds and butterflies and some insects,  small  mammals and reptiles were part of our premises. Jackals, civet cats, fox and occasionally a Hyena or Leopard? would leave a tell tale sign in the night. These were my first introduction to nature. The house abounded  in wild trees  - left over remainders of forest that was taken over by early colonizers.

I grew up in natural environment in locality at a distance from Jabalpur in green suburbs. Narmada Road was then sparsely populated with greenery the hall mark and forest patches still intact in the surroundings. Urbanization had not taken place and few houses and couple of villages habituated the area. Jabalpur is situated in Central India or Madhya Pradesh.

My first sight of the Indian tiger was a dead one. It was shot by shikaris from Mumbai whence hunting was open. The license fee was perhaps  not more than hundred rupees for a tiger and less for other unfortunate mammals. The hunting blocks were all around Jabalpur.  The male tiger was shot at Nauradehi Wild Life Preserve in block called Amahpani. It was a piteous site, the animal was skinned right in front of us. Parts of its body including fat were eagerly picked up by locals for supposedly medicinal properties. I do not remember what happened to its claws. 

My first sighting of a leopard was a dead one. The leopard was shot few km away from our house by a local shikari who lived nearby. The Mumbai hunting party then fetched another leopard cub, shot by their Swiss guests on machaan ...mercilessly butchered with random bullet shots all over the body. Another vermin dead....

I once accompanied this hunting party whence we came across a doe at night in Mandla forest division. We were spared from the fright of gunfire and extreme guilt of killing an innocent animal. The shikari accompanying us on jeep was dead asleep, after an orgy of binge drinking and gluttony he was in no position to shoot. This was my first encounter with a spotted deer in the wild. The shikari slept with head leaning on the gun barrel...who cared.     

Then scores of animal arrived, sambar, chital, hare and what not...Mercifully all that organized hunting stopped whence legislation came into the effect.          

The neighborhood teemed with wild animals all around Jabalpur District also in Katni, Mandla and Sihora to name a few. All that is gone, some patches still hold small life and spotted deer which are entirely at mercy of humans. But in spite of the law, many influential people continued to shoot and the numbers began to decrease. Hunting by tribals and local hunters continued unabated as it happens often now. 

Subsequently large tract of forest became devoid of tigers, leopards and Indian wildlife. Jabalpur and its surrounding districts suffered heavy loss of wildlife and forest belts. In small numbers, deer and leopards still survive (perhaps tigers as well) but precariously since hunters still loom large. Most of the deer species have died out here but animals like wild boar still survive. These are the prime targets of illegal hunters and poachers now.

The diminutive beat guard is helpless figure over shadowed by Goonda and Political Raj. He is a witness to poaching and wood logging, the latter on daily basis. Who stops all this frankly.. I do not know...Pardon my ignorance.

Indian wildlife blog

Nauradehi birding & wildlife

Lost tigers of Nauradehi

Sanctuary 

Nauradehi or Noradehi WLS lies in Sagar, Damoh & Narsignhpur Districts in Vindhya Hills with affinity to Narmada Valley dry deciduous forest. The forest are Southern tropical dry deciduous mix type. The approach to the sanctuary is from Jabalpur, Sagar and Damoh in MP. The Jabalpur Sagar Highway goes through the WLS and is a great source of disturbance to wildlife.

Nauradehi was declared a wildlife sanctuary in the year 1977 and encompasses an area of 1187 sq.km. It is among one of the largest sanctuaries in India. The sanctuary is home to many mammals that suggests good prey base for the  carnivores. The wolf is the prime predator while few tigers and leopards are living in this WLS. 

Villages - Relocation

None of the villages have been shifted so far but relocation plans are in process. There are some difficulties being faced by the administration one of them is the need of requisite funds from the State Government.   There is an urgent need to shift villages to areas out of the sanctuary but the enormity of the tasks is obvious.  The expanding villages and urbanization of life style has put all our forests under pressure.

Animals - Tigers

Nauradehi and surrounding forests were once high density tiger heavens. One could come across tigers on all approach roads to Sagar, Damoh and Narsinghpur. The forest that constitute Noradehi WLS are the best tiger habitats but the big cat lost ground during the British Raj and the time whence hunting was open in Independent India.

Recently on month of May 2018 a tiger pair has been trans-located from Bandhavgarh and Kanha National Park in Central India. Hopefully tigers will be repopulated in their erstwhile home once again. A sighting of a tigress with cubs took place few years back and much earlier an old tigress was found dead in the park. 

The forest have suffered habitat degradation in the past and most of the trees I could see are young. But great care is being taken to fetch the earlier status. The sanctuary contains excellent niches that support the large mammal base and many crocodiles. No wonder the Cheetah Relocation Project plans to initiate the program here. 

The keystone specie presently is the Indian wolf which on my subsequent visits I could not see but it is frequently seen by many others..  The reserve is home to Chinkara and Black Buck the latter confined to forest area in Damoh district. Nilgais are conspicuous by their relative abundance, spotted deer and sambar deer can be seen occasionally in day time. The sanctuary is home to fresh water crocodiles and smooth otters seen on the banks of the river especially at crocodile point.  Many species of small mammals, reptiles and insect are waiting to be discovered. The sanctuary is home to sloth bear as well.

Birds

I could checklist more than eighty resident species here and am waiting to come across spotted grey creeper. Raptors to appear to be abundant. Nauradehi is one of the few pockets where white backed vulture survives and breeds. King vulture and Egyptian vulture are often seen and the habitat is suggestive of the presence of  long billed vulture as well.  I saw a juvenile at Cheola Lake and an adult in flight.  The region around Cheola Lake is best for wildlife safaris and birding.  The water body is home to interesting wetland birds and one can see  resident whistling teal, little grebe, painted storks, lesser adjutant storks, gray heron and many more.          

Tourism

The WLS has tremendous scope for wildlife watching and birding tours in India. Like all preserves there is a criss cross of  motor able jungle roads in the sanctuary. A guide can be arranged at Mohali forest rest house. It would be advisable to take assistance from the DFO who sits at Sagar.   

Tourism is in the nascent stage and very few tourists visit the sanctuary. But the place has great tourism potential as the eco region and keystone mammalian species seen are much different from Kanha, Bandhavgarh National Park and Pench tiger reserves in MP.

The people behind the management and the local forest staff are committed to conservation. The  conservation measures will increase wildlife in coming years and improve the habitat further. The tigers and leopards will flourish once again.         

For more information on wildlife safaris and birding at Noradehi please contact The Penthouse. Privately owned hotel accommodation The Penthouse in Jabalpur organises package tours for birding and safaris at Noradehi. 

Winters up to March is the best time to be at this WLS in Madhya Pradesh in India. But summertime is good for resident birdas well as wildlife wtaching which gathers around the few water holes with enough supply. Rani Durgavati Wildlife Sanctuary is about fifty km from Noradehi.     

Indian Wildlife - Photos

Male Swamp Deer at Kanha


Hard Ground Barasingha


Bison at Kanha National Park 


Indian Roller


Tiger


Chinkara 

                                                       Sambar

Tiger Walk

That's the way it should be tiger sighting on the first go. We entered Kanha National Park with lot of expectation and were thrilled to see the tiger a short distance from the Kisli Gate. The male tiger was radio collared but my friends where amateur photographers who cared hell. 

It is quite interesting to observe people whence they sight an Indian tiger in the wild especially if they have never seen a tiger in the wild. My friends had seen the tiger but not this way.  The frightened awestruck countenance have much to tell. The myth that tiger is a Xtra Large barbaric beast who kills humans at the first go is washed out in a split second. The tourists, I find develop respect for the tiger and other wild denizens. They come to understand the ethos of nature conservation.

Why conservation? The park visit answers this question. The importance of habitat conservation and preserving the whole ecosystem becomes clear to the uninitiated. Controlled  responsible tourism helps not only by sentiments it creates but thanks to the education it imparts.   

The trained naturalists, park guides and wildlife interpretation centers in the tiger reserves play a crucial role in nature  awareness campaigns.   

The tiger was trekked by tourists on a jeep safari ahead of us by the alarm cries. But it was difficult to locate it. 

"The tiger is moving..."as we followed the alarm cries.

In the heat of the moment I heard frantic cackling of greater racket tail drongos and tree pies. I told the guide that some birds give alarm cries as well ...rather loudly. The tiger was located some distance ahead but were the birds giving the alarm cries? Yes they were!

My spirit was dampened by young naturalists from luxury resorts who were giggling shamefully and openly at me. They found my surmise extremely funny. But I have experienced this often - the bird cries and smart alecs.

Anyway the tiger walked through the grassy meadow and came straight towards the safari jeeps. It was a huge male about five to six years old. It came on the jungle road and began walking on the soft sand partially ignorant of the jeeps which were frantically moving back and forth in order to give way.   

I have often seen that tigers on mate search or territorial marking spree come up to face humans and whatever totally immersed in their activity. This is with tigers less used to humans as well. Perhaps the urgency pushes their guard away. 

After lot of tree clawing and urine sprays it moved down towards the thick canopy and vanished ...much to the relief of tourists with bated breadth.One more tiger was seen at Kanha Tiger Park in Madhya Pradesh. Except some warning grimaces the tiger went about its task! You mind you business I mind mine it seemed to say. But do we???????

The next two days we saw Kanha wildlife albeit not in proper circumstance as a large holiday crowd had turned up. The vehicular movement had pushed the animal life into thick canopy difficult to be seen. We came across lot of signs of tigers but that was all. 

I think number of jeep entries should be regulated further as this would spread tourist visit to days whence very few people visit the park. Well I am not a park manager. 

The hotel in Kanha where we were up for the stay is run by a conservationist. Some of our views meet some do not. Anyway I did not discuss this issue with him. It is fun to be in company of some local naturalists in Kanha National Park and other tiger reserves.

Kanha Tiger Reserve is one of the best managed parks in India. Although there are recurring  doubts about the safety of the tiger in the park...they still survive. One thing that rings in my mind is that around preserves like Kanha and Bandhavgarh and others, the man animal conflict is having a greater toll than I believed earlier.   

Of a thousand tiger dead

Recently I came across a book on shikar tales by an acclaimed hunter of the past? India's past is rich  in natural wealth and hence tigers and wildlife, unfortunately it reeks of awful destruction and plunder that the country went through not only through the barbaric invaders and British Raj? But through our own as well.

The legendary shikari (Not Jim Corbett) narrates his accounts of bravado of shooting tigers in most difficult circumstances and succeeding (Sic!). He describes tiger shoots or hunts as an art without guilt, but  more so with incredible passion...that which belies that this country lives under the shadow of Vedic teachings  that shows utmost respect to nature. His account of tiger shoots is devastating to our generation and unfolds the saga of massive destruction that took place in the past.

The Shikari portrays himself as a legend and unwittingly as an insouciant pig of the British Regalia and the pleasure seeking Maharajahs. Dressed in British code, he narrates accounts of arranging shoots of the innocent animal for the Rulers and the Maharajahs! He narrates with shameless pride the accolades that followed - Brought me fame and fortune(Sic). 

On one hand while half naked fakir (Bapu) and other patriotic elements were fighting for India's freedom this man was totality ignorant of the country's subjugation under a foreign civilization. And so were many insouciant Maharajahs...many of whom hold a place of pride in Independent India. From the accounts...this masterpiece of senseless destruction...it is evident...of the kind of support that the Rulers got from within.  

In order to please the Rulers and satiate the pride of the Maharajahs, thousands of tigers were poached ..ruthlessly...mercilessly...males, females....cubs...females with cubs...pregnant tigresses...     

His account of behavioral characteristic of tigers at best is comical, a man more adapt in the art of setting the machaan and ruthless murder of innocent animal could not be a field biologist...he appears more like a butcher.

What is disheartening of now...from the accounts is the abundance of tigers in all forested regions ...now sadly gone. The animal and other life forms are still reeling under the threat of destruction from more immediate urgency.  Perhaps the coming generation will read this blog entry and decry us for not doing enough to save the tiger, hence nature. They will target at us, same ire that I and many conservationist are doing at the moment.

Whence the Rulers left and Maharajahs lost dominance the Brown Sahibs took over and the rest is history. 

From the above lines it is obvious that I am certainly not targeting any Nationality or ethnicity, my anger is more on historical times that were steeped in ignorance. It is more at why understanding did not prevail in spite of the preachings of Vedas...that our life depends upon existence of nature inviolate.    

No one including the Rulers would have let loose such destruction that prevailed if ignorance was overtaken timely. By the time the urgency dawned upon Jim Corbett and many others it was too late. 

Today the place of shikaris have been taken over by the poachers, not for ignorant pride or insouciance, but for monetary greed. The World watches helplessly as the beginning of the end nears. We miss in all sincerity our late Prime Minister Indraji more so now...the tables would have turned in favor of the beleaguered life forms by now.

Pl.Note*

The Government in India is doing its bit to conserve nature.  There are many individuals and organizations involved actively in conservation of species in India and from other countries but it appears to be a loosing battle. God give them strength!  

Jago re! India Jago re!

Eco Resorts at Kanha

Tiger tourism is one of the main draw of the visitors from foreign countries and the locals. Tiger reserves like Kanha, Bandhavgarh and Pench in Madhya Pradesh are very popular for tiger safaris. Corbett National Park and Ranthambhore are also very popular for tiger tourism in India. 

In spite of large number of National Parks/Tiger Reserves greater tourism is limited to the above forests. The reason is high density of tigers and hence easy visibility. Though tigers are present in good numbers elsewhere especially in South India the visibility is lacking due to nature of the habitat. Periyar and Wynaad are examples.

To cater to ever increasing numbers of tourists on tiger safaris the accommodation has been steadily increasing. Initially the rest houses belonging to forest and other government departments were the only places one could stay. In recent times the influx of hotels, jungle camps and resorts has been catering to the tourists.

The concept of holiday accommodation in Indian jungle is steadily changing. The tourists prefer fully equipped wildlife resorts for a stay. These resorts are now being built on the principle of sustainable eco friendly tourism. The ambiances though highly modern is built on the exteriors were eco friendly sustainable resources have been used.      

Most of the eco resorts are built using the same technology as the ethnic dwellings of the tribal villages. Kanha Tiger Preserve leads in this aspect. The new concept has been encouraged by responsible eco friendly tourism which is the need of the hour. Even the energy is obtained from solar panels as much as possible. Though for temperature control electricity is a must. But much of the power is generated using solar panels.  

The ethnic construction is environmentally well heeled and cottages and rooms maintain an amiable temperature reducing the need for temperature control. As in ethnic dwellings the walls are used using locally available mud in conjunction with natural materials used by the tribal. The construction is safe, stable and rock solid as has been proved through centuries.    

The appearance of the resorts is that of beautifully sculptured dwellings in harmony with the surroundings. All this, without sacrificing modern comforts and utilities that the guests look for in luxury accommodations. The eco resorts are well equipped with wildlife interpretation center, trained naturalists, and professional managers and wait staff. The resorts offer in house activities relating to eco tourism iike tribal dance and music - this way they provide lively hood to the locals.   

In time to come eco friendly resorts at Kanha will be the preferred accommodation.  The tourists on wildlife safari do not wish for city type hotels anymore in wild habitats. With increasing tourism awareness of our wild heritage is growing among the tourists. They are more and more becoming conscious of responsible tourism practices.

Kanha and other tiger reserves our life sustaining eco systems. The support vast diversity of life forms with which our lives are linked. Conducting proper tourism will help save these vital ecosystems, and sustain lives of the local communities as well. The tribal are the real sentinels who conserve our green belts. 

An awkward kill

The leopard must have been very hungry to go for a kill twice or thrice his o her size. When we reached the spot we could make out that the kill was not severely injured or dead.

The awkward attack suggested of a young leopard male or female. It was difficult to make out from few pug marks that we could trace.The cattle was lying totally floored to the ground with not much loss of blood,  but its vertebral column was damaged. From the charge we could make out the the attacker was not a tiger. 

The attack took place around seven or eight in the evening and the alarm cries brought the owner to the spot. The leopard had remained rooted to the spot where it had made the charge. The cattle had staggered to about fifty yards before it was grounded.  

The alarm cries alerted the owner, and perhaps the leopard hesitated as many a times the owners must have been summoned quickly. The owner and some other people gathered around the cattle and tried to raise  the animal but could not. They than sat around the animal whole night in order to keep the big cat away. 

The kill had been made a few yards from the luxury resort at Kanha National Park in Boda Chappari village. We walked down to the spot at noon. The forest guard had been summoned and he was taking stock of the situation. There were claw marks on the back on both sides and the neck had been gnashed from the top. This had resulted in breakage in the vertebral column.  

The owner of the eco resort an experienced man about forest matters accompanied us to the spot. The cattle bull was undergoing great sufferance but there was hesitation in letting the animal finish and consume it or use some other method for a swift death. Eventually the bull was carried to a spot near to the villagers house for observation and prevention of poisoning of the kill.   

The leopard must have been very hungry and must have been unable to make another kill. It approached the cattle in the night and consumed it. It was later chased away in wee hours of the morning. The dead cattle was than cremated. The leopard  was a female with cubs as we found out later and hence the desperation for food.   

This is a frequent occurrence in the buffer zone of Kanha National Park in Madhya Pradesh in India. This reflects upon the man animal conflict and challenges the management capability of the department. In spite of good prey base big cats find live stock an easy target as compared to the fleet footed deer. Every year a large number of cattle are killed whence the venture into the forest.

The villagers receive compensation, it would not a big surprise if the cattle owners have made this a opportune business since I am told the proportion of bulls is higher than the cows in the Kanha buffer. This also explains scarcity of fresh milk in the buffer.