Bandhavgarh Jeep Safari

Recently tourism zones have been divided in Bandhavgarh Tiger Reserve. Earlier Tala Gate was the main core where tourism was organized. Due to heavy rush of vehicles the park has been divided into four zone which is a wise move. The number of vehicle entry has also been restricted which is wise as well. 

All these practices will increase cost in the preserve and decrease tourism. Well a balance is required. I have never been to Panpatha zone for excursion and perhaps visited only some areas of Khitauli Zone.  On my next tour I will get a chance to explore new habitats in the amazingly beautiful tiger haven. 

I narrate here my experience of Tala Zone. The terrain is the roughest that one comes across most of the tiger reserves in India and most striking. In most of the confines of the park  an experienced driver acclimatised to  sudden steep climb and swift turns on hillocks is a must. The climb to Sesh Shaiyya is an example how steep upwards a jeep ride could be. In times of Maharaja four by four vehicle was required to reach the Fort about 2 km from Shesh Shaiyya.    

The jeep ride over Gufa No.10, Ghodha Demon and Ramgarh is a steep upward climb continuously. At places 4 by 4 is required but the spectacular scape makes these mountainous areas a must visit. The large tracts of grasslands are situated in the plains where the ride is easy but one needs to avoid the sand traps. Lot many vehicles get stalled in the sand filled paths of the forests.   

The high rise terrain on the hillocks accords greater privacy to tigers of the reserve. These inaccessible areas are excellent breeding grounds for the big cats. The difficult undulating terrain needs safari vehicles in expert hands. Most of the jeep drivers in the preserve are acclimatized to driving in the park. The top rated luxury hotels in Bandhavgarh use their own jeeps for tiger safari. They have on hire expert jeep safari guys who make excursions successful. Some of the drivers are expert naturalists as well.       

Since private vehicles are not allowed in the reserve you need to hire jeeps available for wildlife safaris. If you suspect your driver's skill ask him not to approach the steep climbs or mountainous terrain in the nature preserve. 

Bisons of Kanha

Bos Gaurus
The coarse grazer belonging to Family Bovidae is one of the most impressive mammals of Kanha National Park in Madhya Pradesh. The animal is found widespread in intact forest habitats where interference of man is minimal. Like the tiger bison or gaur as it is called in Hindi cannot tolerate human interference and usually becomes locally extinct due to disease carried by livestock of the settlers. Competition for food is another factor in the species loosing ground.   

This did not happen in Kanha, thanks to large area and mountainous region that gave these animals enough space. The Barasingha suffered the most with extensive loss of habitat. The bison is a local migratory animal and sticks to its forests in vicinity. 

The bisons are less seen during the winters in the plains and meadows of Kanha. The coarse grazers get enough to forage on the  table top mountains and are content to stay there in the dense confines. But as water levels decreases with passing off of winter, and leaf shedding begins these animals start migrating to lower areas. Herds can be seen in forest confines and the grassy meadows during the early morning hours and late evenings as the heat increases.   

They are sighted from February in larger numbers. The animal is a gregarious species which live in small heards to larger herds of 40 to 50 heads. The matriarchal system prevails with dominant males keeping to the fringes or away from the herd in non breeding period.  The herd consists of  young females, males and fawns. 

In winters mating occurs on hillside and the fawn are born during May onwards. The dominant males often engage in a tussle and various display of aggression before courtship to take control of the herd with female in estrous. 

The population increased substantially after trans location of villages in the core zone. The species suffered extensive loss after my visit in 1976. This was due to foot and mouth disease or rinderpest and many animals died during the prevalence. In recent times gaur can be seen in Kisli Range as well as in the buffer zone around Indri Camp. Herds now cross over at the road to Mukki near the villages in the periphery. These animals are always susceptible to disease prevalence among the live stock there.     

The conservation efforts as whole has paid of  for this species. The increasing number would need new grounds for  the gaur and these would be the buffer. The forest canopy is not dense here and the region  is open to man animal conflict.

Best Options for tiger safari in Central India

The best options for tiger safari in the state of Madhya Pradesh are three. Obviously Kanha, Pench and Bandhavgarh. But what can you add more to your journey?

The best way to reach these tiger reserves is landing at Jabalpur Airport or Rail Head which is an overnight journey from New Delhi. The flight takes approximately 1.25 hrs to Jabalpur from New Delhi and nearly the same from Mumbai. Jabalpur is well connected from Mumbai by rail. It is well connected with Kolkutta and many other towns. But one fact remains... you have to book in advance or you do  not get reservations.   

Most inbound tourists drive straightway to the reserves from the airport of rail head. If you are going to spend the night at Jabalpur and have sufficient time then visit Marble Rocks for boating and sightseeing. It is about 21 km from the city and transportation is easily available. Another option is Nauradehi Wildlife Sanctuary which is about eighty km and a day trip can be made for birding and wildlife safari. Jabalpur has much to offer in sightseeing but that needs a few days off stay.

Kanha or KTR Khatia Gate is about 156 km from Jabalpur if you are staying at Mukki Gate then travel 30 to 40 km more.  From this reserve it is back to Jabalpur for flight/train unless you plan to stay here for an extension to Nauradehi WLS or Marble Rocks.

Those going straight to Bandhavgarh can visit Khajurhao Temples from there on. The temple town is connected by flights well. Panna Tiger Reserve is close by about 45 km and so is Ken Gharial Sanctuary these places are worth a visit.

Bandhavgarh is connected by overnight train with New Delhi from Umaria Station which is about 32 km from the Tala Gate. BTR is connected with KTR by 5 hrs drive and from here Pench is about 5hr drive.

Pench is connected with Nagpur (80KM) which is an Airport. Nagpur is connected to Jabalpur by rail and road. Pench, Kanha tour is an option for those wishing to visit two preserves. Nagpur is an effective gateway to Southern India.   


Pachmarhi Hill Resort and Satpura National Park are close to Jabalpur. By rail and then by road Pachmarhi is about 4 hours journey. Satpura is about two hours from Pachmarhi and one hour from Pipariya Station. The gate is situated at Madai Village. This is destination where in tourism infrastructure has come recently and is yet unexplored. It is part of extended conservation unit called Pachmarhi Biosphere Reserve. Bori WLS and Pachmarhi WLS along with the tiger reserve encompass more than 4000 sq km to form this biosphere reserve which is a gold mine of diversity of all natural elements. 

Pachmarhi hill resort is an ideal summer holiday destination, utmost picturesque and cool. Natural formations, Hills and Valleys along with wonder spots form a spectacular pot pourri of scapes that enchant the visitor.  These are destinations where bird life is least explored.  

In order to visit these places tour operators of MP provide affordable tourism packages. For independent travelers making travel arrangements is a big hassle. Okay if done in advance. The hotels can help you with arrangements but  a package is anytime better.  

Useful Info: Winters are very cold hence adequate amount of warm clothing: mufflers, caps, gloves, jackets  should there in your baggage. In the interior areas many consumer products, medicines, wines, banking facilities may not be available so do your shopping in advance at Jabalpur or New Delhi.