Bandhavgarh: Up The Hill

Sesh Shaiyya

Blessed with eternal beauty Bandhavgarh National Park is a paradise on earth. It was some where in the nineties that I accompanied wildlife photographer Gertrude. She was from Germany and a frequent visitor to India. 

Hindu Temple

Tiger

On that hot summer day we ascended the Bandhavgarh Mountain at 800 MSL.The climb turns and twists precariously and tests the skill of the driver. A steep fall unto death awaits for those who go over the edge the abyss of silence. The weather beaten ascent crosses over a number of stables and small caves all man made craved out of the mountain walls.

On the way up is Shesh Shaiyya a twenty feet reclining Vishnu carved out of igneous rock. The statue lies besides the pool calm, composed and majestic. The Shesh Nag is as impressive hence the name. A number of freshwater springs trickle in to feed the pool - earlier used for bathing. The grove is surrounded by an aura of mystic and grandeur.  

Bandhvgarh Mountain

Stables

Old Temple

We spent considerable time at this spot. Inexperienced I poured large amount of water inside to deter the conquering heat.

Pristine.Fairy Tale Like. Esoteric.

Best way to describe the amazing holy domain of Lord Vishnu. Serenity prevails and an occasional tiger appears sometimes. The dense canopy is ideal for raising families for tigresses of the park. The location is an enchanting spectacle, picturesque to the core. Large looming trees provide shade and shelter from the sweltering heat of the sun.   

As we climb up the mountain on foot we encounter the Pujari. He was the priest appointed by Maharajah of Rewa for the upkeep of Ram Janki Laxman Temple on the hill top. Walking almost every day he trudged along the jungle road covering a distance of 11 km in order to reach the temple. On this trek he would often encounter a tiger. "I stand still whence the big cats are close to me," he narrated nonchalantly. Unimpressed by series of queries from us he moved on.        

Ram Janki Temple

The entrance is a majestic structure perhaps all that is left of the 2000 year fort. The massive door and sentry chamber greets the visitors in the abyss of silence. The chambers now house bats and that  is what we stopped to  photograph.

We then proceeded further on a jungle road that was surrounded by tall grasses. As we moved further we came across a towering statue of Lord Vishnu. We encountered statues of the Lord in zoomorphic forms. Amazing esoteric world of ancient is what we encountered. The fort now in ruins was ruled over by many dynasties but initial architecture is Gond - a tribal community in Central India or Madhya Pradesh.

The Bandhavgarh Mountain is a tabletop one with extensive plateau. The fort complex contains man made reservoirs besides ruins of the Fort itself.  All along the complex are scattered artifacts and run down walls.  

Reservoir

Ancient Temple

The visit to the ruins takes time and we sit down to have our lunch. Prepared by expert  chefs in our resort in Bandhavgarh we savor the gastronomic delights. But I was facing acute shortage of water having drunk a large amount on the way. Gertrude was kind enough to share hers with me.

We could hear the squeals of wild boar as we stood at the edge peeping right into the vast landscape of Bandhavgarh National Park. As we climbed down a memorable safari had just concluded.    

All images by Teerath Singh

Bandhavgarh Spectacular Mountain Views

The tiger park has unique topography with high rise mountains, glens and meandering rivers. The Bandhavgarh mountains are table topped with dense forest on easy slopes and rocks, sand and tufts of grass on the cliffs. The table land are always enveloped in serenity  and clam. The esoteric scape send tourists on ruptures of delight. 

The mountains over look the green valleys and rivulets that snake through the grassy meadows. The panoramic grandeur is breathtaking and mesmerizing. Tiger sightings on such scape are enthralling, for many a time the big cat is seen on the plateaus of the mountains.

At that great height when you look around you, you see some barren mountain walls dotted with man made cave and horse stables. The cavities in the bare mountains walls have been further dug up to make these human structures. In ancient days these were used by soldiers and their horses.  You wonder in awe how far humans can reach. With the decline of dynasties that came to rule here these places are empty and only used by tigers. These are excellent resting and breeding grounds for the big cats of the park.   

The panoramic splendor is 360 degrees, breathtaking and awe inspiring. The sight and feel creates a synergy between the tourists and the pristine surroundings. The roads all around are rough and with full of discomforting stones nevertheless you ignore the bump they generate, fully enmeshed with the natural India.  

The tiger safaris at Bandhavgarh yield much more than animal sightings - you are in a different World. A mesmerizing experience in a wildlife heaven and amidst ancient historical architectural masterpieces.    

The highest point in the reserve is Bandhavgarh which sites atop the mountain with the same name. It is at 800 MSL plus and is accessible after a steep climb. The fort now in ruins is an esoteric delight with impressive idols of zoomorphic forms of Lord Vishnu scattered all along the table land.

The highlight of the tour is the reclining Vishnu about twenty feet long sculptured from igneous rock. The statue reclines beside a fairy pool that is surrounded by dense vegetation of ferns, climbers and moss. The small springs which feed the pool make Shesh Shaiyya and enchanting place. It used to shelter weary soldiers on the way up now tigers inhabit this place.   

You can see all the idols on the trip plus visit the huge man made reservoirs besides many artifacts of archeological importance. The religious minded can pay obeisance at the ancient Ram Janki Temple facing the park.         

A visit to the Fort is not possible on regular park safari. Special arrangement has to be made in advance. A  permit is required which the resort in Bandhavgarh that offers you the accommodation can arrange. You need to carry packed lunch and lot of water for the trip. 


The plateaus are heaven for wildlife an you can expect to see animals in the grassy meadows and the forests. They are excellent for  birding as difference in habitat yields new species. For exploring Bandhavgarh one needs a stay of at east three nights. A long stay is bound to result in exciting discoveries.