Dag's Tour to Kanha

Courtyard House Kanha

Wildlife Photography is an art but it does not necessarily has to be that always.  Sometimes amateur effort is purposeful enough to store a memorable event. That's what Dag did...sheer enthusiasm and love for nature he captured wildlife of Kanha for posterity.  On very first day we saw a magnificent tiger.  

He came along with a group from Sweden & Dubai including his parents and brother. The trip was full of fun and joy as good as a  tiger safari has to be.  Here are some of the photographs he clicked at Kanha National Park during the tour.

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Ant Hill

Bison

Spotted Deer

Langur

Tiger

TigeratKanha

Tiger on Jungle Road

Owl in Banyan Tree

Tiger Crossing

Tiger in the Bush

Squatting Tiger

Tiger in the Bush

Tiger for the General

It was just a chance discussion with the beat guards that lead to this magnificent tiger in Kanha Forests. We were going downhill at Dig Dola Road whence we met the guards, the true sentinels of the Kingdom. They walk on foot for hours to keep the animals safe from marauding poachers.  They come across animals of all sorts but return home unscathed thanks to their knowledge of the wilderness. The animals do not harm anyone but more often act in self defense. 

"Tiger Roar Sir at 300 meters," they informed me. We rolled down further than 300 meters, and I could hear the thunderous roar of the majestic cat. Deep inside the forest, it was discouraging, anyway we moved on and reached the Saunf meadow. There were clear cut pug marks on the jungle road, but the roar had ceased. At the instance of  crossing over to the mountains there were no alarm calls. This was puzzling since there was a deer standing about 50 yards from the spot. Is this going to be another fake chase? The thought was disheartening.        

After a some wait I sent one of my jeeps ahead for the search. I was positive about the direction the tiger was heading...but aware of the jeeps it could have stayed in hiding. The pug marks looked fresh but the confusion was compounded by the silence of the deer.   

Jeep returned without sighting the tiger."Let's go for the tiger with the kill," the guide suggests. He is a highly experienced guide and I am tempted. After some time I say "wait!," The tiger on the kill is a three day old story so not much of meat. We are in three jeeps. I suggest the guide to go and check once more and we follow. And Bingo" tiger on the road.    

Just as I thought the tiger had descended from the mountain after the jeep had returned. All clear he must have thought. We met him across the bend about 100 yards from where the pug marks were. 

This is Munna, I thought. The tiger was trudging head on without even a glance at us."The tiger sir, I whispered to the general who had already seen the animal. "Big Cat," he said. "Yes Sir, a male tiger and of impressive dimensions."     

The cat continued to trudge head on and we followed. There was an assemblage of about seven jeeps now but the tiger was relaxed and did not bother to look back. "We will have a fair idea about its dimensions whence we look at it sideways." I said, "It appears to be small because of its height. Two and half feet maximum." 

It was an ethereal settings as the animal trudged along at a leisurely pace.  The accompanying alarm cries invaded the already charged electric atmosphere.  "This is fear emanating from the herbivores," I said, "this is the advance warning system among them." 

The big cat moved graciously into the dense thickets on the cross road. Then a wonderful thing happened. The tiger started to roar again. We were absolutely thrilled by this development. After two tiger safari we were finally able to see the tiger in the wild. The General and his family's wish was fulfilled, a tiger was finaly sighted in the enchanting forests of Kanha National Park.      

I was duly rewarded with a medal of appreciation.  Jai Hind!

Army Tents at Courtyard House

GOC Medal

Courtyard House near Kanha National Park

Tiger Photo By Uday Patel

       

New Year with Karai Ghati Tiger

Thirty First December & First January spells crowd at Kanha Tiger Reserve in MP. Even after limiting the number of vehicles the park was swathing with a great numbers of gypsy plying on the road.

We had been allotted the Sarhi Zone and hence decided to go via the Karai Ghatti. I was adamant that we go via the Karai Corridor, the guide was also in favor hence there was no pride lost. We advanced on the cold day surprising this was the least cold winter I had ever experienced on 1st January.    

Karai Ghat is one of the picturesque ride in the park. It is mixed forest with Bamboo and Sal here and there. The zone is well inundated by Sulkum and other tributaries of  major rivers like Banjar. It is dotted with numerous water bodies that form small lakes ideal for big cats in the summers.  

We were cruising along the Sarhi Zone on the Maua Dabri Road. There was hardly any jeep on this road and we were at the forefront. It was a pleasant day thanks to the rising sun. Our eyes were all the time glued to the forest glades as well as small narrow strips of grasslands that we came across. 

I had hoped for something to happen today. "Hope something exciting happens tomorrow." I had told my guests over dinner the last night at Courtyard House Kanha. Paul Fear and Alison Baines from UK had already seen a tiger on their safari in Kanha Zone. They wanted more, who does not?

On the finest patch of forest that something exciting happened. The tiger emerged like an apparition in the mist laden ambiance. We could see him heading towards us. It first appeared like a termite mound some distance away. But the termite mound was moving right towards us. WOW!

"That's a tiger," I informed my guests. With baited breadth. 

The big cat came towards us as we moved the reverse gear in order to maintain a safe distance. The majestic cat took my breadth away. "It is not Munna", I whispered to the guide. 

"It is larger than Munna," the guide whispered."And in prime."

Munna is one of the largest tiger seen in the Kisli Range and neighborhood. It is aggressive and does not give way to the jeeps at all. The Maua Dabri tiger was definitely larger and in prime being around six years in  age.          

This was one of the most mesmerizing spectacle I had ever witnessed in my life time of wandering in the jungles of India.  The lithe graceful charismatic creature was a breadth taking sight and invoked fear. In the soft sunlight it shone like a magical delight. The reddish orange brown fur coupled with pure white was at its shiniest best. In the natural surroundings the beast looked captivating as it came upon us with a gentle stride. We were constantly reversing in order to maintain a safe distance. But in case of hesitation, I observed that the tiger moved towards the bushes on the edge of the jungle road. It did not mock charge or come very near to us. 

"It is busy,"I told the guests."Territorial marking". The tiger was spraying pheromones along with his urine on the leaves and grass. In the ethereal moment my guests could admire and photograph the majestic creature. Paul & Alison were kind enough to send me the images captured by them. 

I have added images of that majestic tiger below so that you can be a part of my exotic journey in the tigerland called Kanha.

                                    
                         Tiger Photographs - Paul Fear UK

     

Tigress on the hill

In the Kisli Range at Kanha National Park in MP there are two hills famous for tigers. Dig Dola and Sal Ghat the latter is named after numerous Sal trees present along with associates and bamboo. Dig Dola is named after a rock balancing on another.  This mountain has more of bamboo but practically the topography is the same. 

Some water bodies intersperse these mountains and the dense canopy in the valleys provide ideal cover to the tigers. The dense canopy also makes tiger sighting difficult although these areas are dominated by big males. Sub adult males sired by the dominant tiger and few tigresses some with cubs inhabit these mountains. 

The climb uphill is a rugged jungle path which twists and turns precariously along the edge. The "S" turns make the road ahead almost invisible and you can be surprised by a big cat if not careful. Leopards also inhabit the area but they are very shy and rarely seen. 

The tree line begins right where the road edges and some patches of small grass are often encountered. The dominant tigers are often encountered on the road. Munna the present male is often seen here by people on  tiger safari. This tiger maintains a large territory in the Kisli Range which keeps on changing. The tigresses are shy and rarely seen. 

We missed a tigress on Sal Ghat as she refused to come out of the bush. We heard her calling as I have mentioned in my earlier blogs. This is the tigress I wished to see and one fine day the wish came true. We where climbing uphill from the Saunf Meadow on Dig Dola Mountain trek whence we came across a group of jeeps at the Siliari Tank. 

"There is a constant ring of alarm cries,'' the guide on other vehicle informs me. We decide to wait but in futility since the tiger was deep inside the grass near the tank.           

"Move on." I goad the driver. "Lets move"

I surmise that the tiger is too deep and disturbed to come out hence it is futile to wait. The tempting thought of empty road downhill is the second incentive to keep driving. And as luck would have it a couple of kms  and we see a tigress coming straight at us. 

This is the Dig Dola tigress that we missed so often. She is shy and nervous and strangely does not vanish into the forests.  A large cat she appears to be pregnant? "Surprisingly big for a tigress," I inform the guide and he too confirms that she is pregnant by the bulge in the belly. 

The tigress keeps coming towards us and warns whence we are too close due to steep incline. A terrifying grimace, but then eases down as sufficient distance is maintained. We maintain a distance of twenty meters and my guests from Slovenia have time of their life photographing the big cat. The tigers have markings that differ and this female has thin stripes on white brows.

After giving long moments of filming the tigress vanishes into the jungle. One last look and we move on to our luxury hotel in Kanha for a comforting accommodation. The tiger safaris are tiring mind you,

Tiger at Kanha By Uday Patel

the jeep ride can be excruciating at times.

The guests are extremely happy having got amazing pictures of the big cat in Kanha. The evenings are spent over drinks and bonfire both helping us to contain our joy and the bitter cold.               

The menacing leopard of Kanha

Kanha Tiger Reserve - MP - India 

Our earlier trip to Mukki Range in Kanha National Park was devoid of big cat sightings. The range is unique since it holds extensive grasslands and two important water bodies. There is an old rest house built during the British times and worth a stay. The Mukki Gate is about 35 km from Khatia Gate and can be approached from inside as well as outside. The forests are much visited from people of Raipur in Chhattisgarh State of India and those who stay in hotels on Mukki near the park.  

Our recent trip to this range boiled with excitement. My guests were from Europe from a country called Slovenia. Both were professional photographers and one of them was also a tour operator. At Mukki we saw two tiger cubs near a water body. Probably the tigress was out hunting as we could not get any signs of her presence.    

Earlier we had seen two tiger cubs of Umarpani Female at Kanha meadow but the images where not satisfactory. The tiger family kept a distance and most often hidden in the bush. But the cubs near Babathenga Tank at Mukki were quite in the open and we could get some fine images. 

Satisfied and much happy we had a fulfilling breakfast of cheese and vegetable sandwiches, aloo paratha and fruits. Post breakfast we moved on to return to the Khatia Gate via a long stretch of jungle road. 

The unexpected happens, we were still in the confines of Babathenga Tank on the Zila Fireline in the Mukki Range. Driving casually and quite relaxed after having an onerous task accomplished we were ambling across that road at 20/km per hour. This is the prescribed speed of the park and allows your sensory apparatus to work more efficiently.     

Somewhere across the Zila Fireline, I spotted a leopard crossing the road few feet away. There was just enough time to react and I asked the driver to stop right at the spot from where the crossing took place. I was expecting that the big cat would have melted away in the bush. This did not happen!!!!!!

The surprised leopard was starring at me. The guide, driver and two lens men were taken by absolute surprise. Stunned into silence by fear is what I will describe the scenario as. Having heard me shout, "Leopard" the big cat sat there in "about to spring" position starring menacingly at me. I was on the seat. The eyes shone bloody as cryptic patterns created by strands of sunlight  formed on the animal. The chiseled canines,  deadly claws and the musculature,...few would like to view from so close. Given a choice, I would maintain a safe distance.

This is what was least expected although big cats do behave aggressively at times. I slid down behind the driver unnerved. But the lens men though out of wits were at their job with such a wonderful opportunity knocking at their cameras. But the guide was apprehensive as he could sense my trepidation. And soon the leopard was encircling our open jeep.   

This was a dangerous moment for the spots could strike. At a distance of six feet we were a sitting duck. The guide sensed trouble and shouted full throat, "HAAT." The leopard slid into the thick bushes and vanished for good. The driver was already moving forward during the episode in order to maintain a safe distance of 20 meters but then things happened too fast.

Leopard Photo by Teerath Singh

For some time there was stunned silence as we got out of the big cats range. The leopard could have gone unseen but for my alertness (Ahem!).  I turn toward my guests, my face beaming with pride, "so" I manage to speak. Still in a state of surprise they poke fun at me...yeah...ok...good. They had got super delicious shots of the leopard which we could see at the Courtyard House.

The rest of journey was full of exciting moments as we came across many animals of Kanha National Park.